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Dealer said solenoid was bad, so I changed it. It started the bike about 20 times and then was intermittent and then quit starting altogether. I changed the solenoid and it still won't start. Just clicks when you hit start button. It will start normal with the switch that I put on "jumping " the solenoid. Could my start button be bad? Help!
 

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If the solenoid clicks, it is being energised, but there is not enough juice to turn the engine.

Have the battery load tested. Make sure all connections are clean.
 

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Why does it start from the jumper switch across the solenoid and not the start button? One side of the jumper is on the Bat. side and the other is on the starter side and it works?
 

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Could be the plates in the solinoid are not making good contact. Older ones get buildup on them and quit. Yours being new could possibly be hanging up before the contacts are making.
Take a vom meter and unhook the hot battery wires , push the starter button and check for continuity. Should read as a good contact, just make sure the battery voltage is removed from the solinoid. If it showsopen and you hear a click then the solinoid is bad for sure. Check your connections a little loose and you will get nothing.
 

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Bad Ground? You may have an issue with corrosion on the start switch wire connectors. cleaning the connections may help you out. Just put to rest my own wireing gremlins. keep us posted and PM if you are stumped
 

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giturgun wrote:
Could be the plates in the solinoid are not making good contact. Older ones get buildup on them and quit. Yours being new could possibly be hanging up before the contacts are making.
Take a vom meter and unhook the hot battery wires , push the starter button and check for continuity. Should read as a good contact, just make sure the battery voltage is removed from the solinoid. If it showsopen and you hear a click then the solinoid is bad for sure. Check your connections a little loose and you will get nothing.
Good advice.
 

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I am working on a gremlin of my own. Had to trailer mine Sat. The battery just went 100% deaD. I mean when it quit it was dead. I got it home and full charged the batt for about 12 hours at 2 amps. Hooked it up and the starter ran , with out the key on. With it in neutral or in gear, with the side stand up or down. clutch in or out.
I unhooked the green red and yellow red wires and touched the battery post . did not turn over . So I hooked them back up .
GUESS WHAT
Now the thing works perfect. Clutch ,sidestand, neutral switch , gear selector safety switch . All work , starter works , starts, reverse works. I am now wondering what stuck on it . Now I can't find the problem because nothing is doing anything wrong . Guess I will just ride it till something quits again and then I will fix it. I thought the starter solenoid was stuck closed since all the safety relays were being bypassed. If it was the button sticking they would prevent it from turning over. OH well :sadguy::baffled:
 

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I changed the solenoid, checked connections including grounds, took apart the start button and cleaned everything. Still no fire on the switch. I did notice that the relay by the battery clicks but the solenoid does not? The relay is black-5 prong. Really frustrated, please help if you even have a guess.
 

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hurtyougringo wrote:
I changed the solenoid, checked connections including grounds, took apart the start button and cleaned everything. Still no fire on the switch. I did notice that the relay by the battery clicks but the solenoid does not? The relay is black-5 prong. Really frustrated, please help if you even have a guess.
Does "Still no fire on the switch" mean that pressing the right-grips Start/Reverse switch does not crank the engine? (no starter noise)?



Assuming the above(no starter noise) and that you can hot-wire the solenoid to crank / start (still correct ?), then I'd have to say that you should double-check the 5-Amp inline fuse between the two starter solenoids (relays)... (especially, since hotwiringsolenoid B can draw backward through that fuse at nearly the starter's current if/when solenoid A, the 5-pin one, is not closed).





Look up near the top-rear corner of your battery (above the rear brake fluid reservoir) for a rubber cover (should be above the relays there) -- look for a cooked 5A fuse.



Let us know what you find.











 

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I checked the ( 2 ) 5amp fuses above the rear brake mas. cyl., and they were both good. There were 2 fuses in there. Still just clicks at the relay on the plate/with fuses by the front of the battery. Still searching for answers.
 

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Is it the relay "A" or relay "B" that you hear clicking?



Put your volt meter on DC voltage and read the voltage across the relay on the leads from the battery to the starter as you try to start the engine. If it shows one or two volts as you try to start it the switch is good. If it shows 8 or 9 volts as you try to start it the relay is bad and has a poor connection and not giving true 12 volts to the starter.
 
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