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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all.

i'm finally starting in on my gl1000 build. I got a pair of them for free a while ago, one was seized bad, carbs off in yard for year plus, so its water logged, but the other would run with the application of ether. the carbs on that bike that 'ran' obviously need to be rebuilt, and i already found randaks? carb kit.

But. i've noticed that the brake lines and brake hardware are completely shot. what i'd love to know is if you folks have any sources you trust for brake hardware.

Furthermore, it might sound like shenanigans, but i dont have the keys for either bike, i might be able to find them by going to the guy who got me the bikes, but i'm curious if the key cylinders on the gl1000 can be re-tumblered. The bike that runs doesn't have helmet hooks for instance, but the parts bike does, and the false gastank on the good bike has a bent lock cylinder, but the parts biek... you get the idea.

Furthermore, does any one here have a list of thing to absolutely check before trying to start the bike again? i'm planning on draining hte fluids and changing filters at least twice already... if there's anything else i can do to avoid destroying this engine, let me know?


Lastly, i'm missing only one peice of my beauty plates, the one that covers the battery. i'm planning on going without... i don't have the money to replace something that costs that much... frankly i'd cover it with a peice of sheet steel before anything else... but if anyof you have an old broken cover, i would be interested in it... i'd figure out a way to 'make it work' :p

So yeah. there it is. I'll throw up some pictures next :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·





the 'parts' engine.


got the parts bike tore down and into boxes.

Thats a full set of vetter in the background there. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
A couple more questions that might help me out actually...

How in the world do the forks come off? what size is the allen in the top of the forks, i couldn't find an allen that fit is snugly, and i felt like i was going to round stuff off if i continued.

I don't think my exhust is stock. does anyone know what it acutally is?
 

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Well, lots of questions...
The ignition cylinder can be disassembled and the pins can be changed, refiled or done away with altogether so that anything insertable will work it until you're squared-away on it some time later. The switch can be unplugged and used by itself temporarily.

Don't know what the exhaust is, but it ain't stock.

Get yourself a manual. Here is one particular to the '78.
 

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Here is the page it comes from.

pg. 3 - "Mr. Mechanic-Guy" ...mustached and straight outta the late 70's - haha
 

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These are interference engines. If you aren't positive when the timing belts were changed - change them before you fire it up.

If the bike sat for a long time all the seals and O-rings will need freshening up. Don't need that done to start it and run it, but as you put some miles on it those hardened rubber parts will start to leak. Same problem with the valve stem seals.

Don't put clean/refurbed carbs on until you are sure the fuel tank is clean of loose rust. The idle jets are only about .014" and plug pretty easy.

Forks should come off by removing the top triple clamp and the nut underneath it, then slide the assembly down. Pulling the lower bearing off the stem is a real joy.

I'm not sure why, but left side covers are like hens teeth.

Yeah, aftermarket mufflers at least. The stock headers were double walled on the early models but I'm not sure on the 78-79.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
i will post a series of pictures about hte forks... i found where they were clamped on, and removed those bolts, even tried to use a screwdriver to separate them, but nothing budged.

i am planning on changing out the timing belts already... but what i need is a source that is generally trusted for such things. where do you guys buy your parts?
 

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...what size is the allen in the top of the forks?
8mm Allen

Loosen those 8mm top clamp bolts and the bottom clamp bolts (14mm?, I don't remember) and after a little WD-40, then they should come out if you twist the tube while pulling them down.
Sometimes I'll use the blade of a screwdriver in the clamp slots to open them a bit and help the tubes out. Not to bend open the slots, but to just wedge the opening a bit further. A screwdriver at the top slot AND one at the bottom slot, ...and the forks will almost fall out..
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
oh, where can i find the brake hoses all the way around, along with pads and brake hardware? i got good calipers (thank god) but the hardware is totally toast.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
hmm. theres a couple other things i'm trying to find too. i mean, i found the randakks carb kit, but oil filter, timing belts, brake hardware and hoses, and tune up - (specifically the condensor cap) i'm having a heck of a time finding what i'm looking for, or knowing if the prices are ideal. Any help you guys can afford me would be sincerely appreciated :D
 

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The Gates timing belts and oil filter kits i bought from Amazon at the best prices I could find anywhere local or the net..... I would check on ebay for the brake parts you are looking for. Plenty of GL recyclers there.
 

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I got Gates belts for '86 1200 at Amazon for $10 each, free shipping. Around here, Fram CH6009, Advance Auto just over $4, Menards just under $4, in stock.

Scott
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
so... i gotta double ask this... brake hoses, pad springs, and pad rods are all 'recycled used' ??? seems hellishly dangerous to be running around on brakes that have 40 year old hardware.
 

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so... i gotta double ask this... brake hoses, pad springs, and pad rods are all 'recycled used' ??? seems hellishly dangerous to be running around on brakes that have 40 year old hardware.
I've done a lot of brake work on bikes and have seldom replaced hardware related to the calipers, just cleaned them and regreased. I've never had to buy new hoses, just replaced with used ones. I know the difference between brakes that work and brakes that aren't right and used parts have always worked out for me. The finesse of working on these old things is to reuse the good parts instead of throwing money at them. If a guy can't tell a good part from a bad part he should buy a new bike and trade it in every 2 years. That's the rewarding part of DIY instead of having a service department replacing old parts for new parts when it's not necessary but still safe and reliable. Anyways, nice new parts that are better than stock are nice too.;)

Scott
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
i'll take some dtailed photos of the hoses then, and see what your take on it is. THe ruber outer jack is toast anywhere the hose bends or is terminated, but the layer inside looks solid. just don't want to have to get on the brakes sometime and have it fail violently and bury my head into the back of a semi or somethin.
 

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I was just pushing my '75 around the garage to reorganize today. One of the loose brake hoses got caught in the front spokes and got mangled real good. Looks like I'll be searching for at least one brake hose. (laughing emoticon inserted here)

Scott



The hoses do get spongy when they are like you described. Or maybe spongier?
 

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I see you are spending money on these. Have you got a *title*? If not you're spending money on someone else's bike.
 
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