Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
imported post

Hi,

I had been facing starting problems, until my starter finally died.

I have replaced my starter with a brand new starter from EMS (ex-Stokers). I have a brand new battery -- SVR18.

After replacing the starter last weekend, it started right up. I went to her for a spin today (about 8 miles). Once I came back, she refuses to start. When I press the starter button, I can hear the whirring of the starter motor but the engine does not turn.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Dan
 

·
Senior Guru
Joined
·
3,873 Posts
imported post

the whirring of the starter normaly means the battery is low are you sure your problem was not the altanator in the first place have you tried to jump start it
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
imported post

Before I replaced the starter, it had died. I checked around with a multimeter -- the battery was charging. The old starter used to only click and nothing else. The point where the black cable connected was completed corroded and loose and finally snapped off.



I am in the process of charging the battery right now with a charger. I guess, if it starts up on the first shot after the I finish the charging the battery, then I guess it could be the stator/alternator.



Could it be anything else?



Thanks,

Dan
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,848 Posts
imported post

Usually the Wirring noise means your starter clutch is not engaging. Try a good crankcase flush to free up the engagement rollers. If the problem is only once in a while then you might just get away with adding a couple of ounces of MMO to your oil for a few regular oil changes. If it is a real problem then drain a quart of Oil and replace with a quart of MMO and run easy for about a hundred miles. During that time occasionally engage the starter to get the clutch to freewheel. After the run if it is improved then do a regular oil change.
 

·
Senior Guru
Joined
·
3,873 Posts
imported post

hi dan if it already burnt the black cable you will have to check the cable from the battery to the starter for bad connections not just the clamps but the condition that the cable is in when the copper heats up it loses its ability to conduct the power through it but go for a fully charged battery and see how you get on
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
imported post

Thanks guys -- will try MMO.

The black cable is fine and the wiring is fine. I cleaned & papered the ringed wire-end before I bolted it onto the new starter. What corroded and snapped off was the bolt where the black wire connected on the old starter.
 

·
Postpubescent member
Joined
·
36,382 Posts
imported post

The two most common causes of the starter not engaging are low voltage and thick oil. You might try an oil flush with Marvel Mystery Oil or Sea Foam and see if that helps. One other likely culprit with starting problems is the start relay. Over the years the relay contacts get burned and rough which increases the resistance through the relay. It wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the relay just due to its age. They are always on eBay for pretty reasonable prices. You can even find them on eBay with a modern blade type fuse instead of the fusible link.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
imported post

Thanks guys -- will try flushing the engine. I hope it starts else I guess I will not able to do the engine flush. May try push starting it.

I have located a blade type relay. It is the same price as the fleabay ones which have fusible link.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
400 Posts
imported post

I guess it does not get that cold in NC but in Pa. where I am at my bike would probably do that now due to thick oil.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
695 Posts
imported post

With a meter check for a voltage drop on the postive cable going from the batter to the starter relay.

If there's any different between postive post at battery & postive post at relay you have a corrosion issue with the positive cable.

You can also connect test meter up to battery/relay and see what the voltage drops to when starter button is pushed. If it drops below about 10 volts you most likely have a bad connection. Possibly a battery if its over 3 yrs old.

My view is that most electrical/starter issues are lack of continuity. Always check for that before one buys expensive parts.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
imported post

Thanks all -- bike is back on the road *_*

Stuff that I did --
1. Replaced the starter relay with a new blade-type relay
2. Draining a quart of the engine oil and replaced with SeaFoam
3. Took me about 3 weeks after that to actually try and start the bike (waiting for the starter and appropriate weather to work on the bike)
4. Took out the starter and checked all was OK, it was

Once all was put back, it fired up and engaged the rollers in the first shot.

Additional benefits -
1. Gears change more smoothly
2. Neutral light (which I have black-taped) seems to now turn off in gear

I will run the bike for another 50 miles or so before I do a oil & filter change.

Regards,
Dan
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
88 Posts
imported post

hey mayby this might help it did for me






Before you do anything else, pull the starter back out of the bike. Remove the three long bolts and pull the the nose peice off of the main starter casing. When you pull it apart hold it with the nose peice down so the planetary gears do not fall out. Set the main casing down and inspect the planetary gears. What I want you to do is turn the outside gear, note if the outer ring gear is metal or plastic and observe to see if the gears are turning freely. You may very possibly find that there is a point where they just stop like they're stuck. If this is the case, check the ring gear. There is a small key on the nose peice that fits into a notch on the ring gear and keeps it in place. If the gear is plastic, the gear may have jumped and the key is no longer in the notch and it is causing just enough of a flat spot to jam the gears and not allowing the starter to do it's job. This is what happened to mine.

What I did was take apart the old starter, put the old nose peice which had a metal gear onto the new casing put it together and re-installed it. I never had a problem with since then.

It seems some of the off brand manufacturers are saving money by using the plastic gear instead of metal and the torque of the metal gears against it are to much and it moves out of place.

Good luck and let us know how you make out. (with the bike, not your love life, that's for another thread.)


special thanks to Richardrwg









:coollep:lasers56

live to ride again



 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
imported post

lasers56,

guess i did not mention that -- that is exactly what i did, when i removed the starter to check it out, i opened it up and noticed that the wheels in the nose part were not moving freely and there was a hair-line crack in the nose part. So I replaced the entire nose assembly with the old nose assembly onto the new starter.

I bought this starter last month from EMC (ex-Stokers) based on recommendations in this forum.

All is good now.

Regards,
Dan
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top