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I will be likely doing the alternator conversion as I did on my LTD but something puzzles me.
I did the tests on the stator and get 60 volts ac wire to wire on all three wires from the stator with them disconnected.
However when everything is connected back up to the voltage regulator ( I have put on two known good ones while messing with this) One leg of the stator drops to 1.6 volts DC while the other two stay at 4.5 DC as they should.
Im mainly asking for my own education as I simply cannot figure out why this happens???:?
As I said I will do the external conversion on it but I am curious why this is happening when the stator tests as good? Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
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I might add that everything is hardwired the solinoid mods are done and three new wires ran directly to the voltage regulator from the stator. There are no shorts or connectors left to cause it. Its not a deal breaker on this bike, ive done the externals before so thats not a big deal. Im just the type that if I cant figure out why something is out of whack it bugs me till I do LOL
 

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Ghostrider52005 wrote:
However when everything is connected back up to the voltage regulator ( I have put on two known good ones while messing with this) One leg of the stator drops to 1.6 volts DC while the other two stay at 4.5 DC as they should.
Is that a typo or were you checking the stator output on DC?
 

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Ghostrider52005 wrote:
I did the tests on the stator and get 60 volts ac wire to wire on all three wires from the stator with them disconnected.
However when everything is connected back up to the voltage regulator ( I have put on two known good ones while messing with this) One leg of the stator drops to 1.6 volts DC while the other two stay at 4.5 DC as they should.
Im mainly asking for my own education as I simply cannot figure out why this happens???:?
Never heard of checking wire to wire while hooked up, never seen any standards to look for. Hooking the reg/rectifier up does not change the output of the stator, but now you are checking DC volts on AC wires upwind of a reg/rectifier with it's diodes. Not sure what you are seeing, but that's not how you check it.
 

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DaveO430 wrote:
Is that a typo or were you checking the stator output on DC?
I think our founder Steve posted that test.
You probe each yellow wire to check the DC voltage difference between it and the battery.

I couldn't see it as being relevant so never tried it.:?
 

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I first disconnected the stator and checked all three wires wire to wire on ac as your supposed too. ON that test the stator puts out 60 plus volts ac. I then blamed the voltage regulator so I changed it. Once everything was hooked back up the charge rate was only about 13 volts at the battery, I changed to another known good voltage regulator and got the same thing at the battery.
All the wires from the stator are new and no plugs left all hardwired and soldered. I did steves test for dc volts on the stator wires with everything hooked up and get 4 .5 on two wires and 1.5 on the third that is dc.
So in a nutshell with the stator disconnected checking AC volts it tests very strong on all three stator wires. Then when you connect it to the voltage regulator one stator wire drops output. It is very weird to me to which is why Im asking. I have done externals, tested many a stator rewired etc so Im not really a noob at this but i have never seen a stator act as this one does.
 

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A lil more clarification. It isnt the regulator. Ive tried two known good ones. Pulling the headlight fuse will get voltage up to 14.1 volts dc. If the regulator was only allowing 13 volts that is all it would allow regardless of load. So the problem is output. The stator tests good ac disconnected 60 plus volts and when connected back to the voltage regulator the voltage drops off on one stator wire and it is always the same wire that drops off. Thanks. Again this isnt a deal breaker since I will external it but simply an oddity that i cant figure out that i thought one of you may have the answer for. Thanks again
 

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Ghostrider52005 wrote:
I first disconnected the stator and checked all three wires wire to wire on ac as your supposed too.
The Honda manual make no mention of testing AC voltage from the stator... amps yes
 

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Continued:

Take note of the last paragraph:

There was a post recently on measuring AC voltage recently..... ignore it.
 

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There is a supplemental test published (from Honda) regarding disconnecting the AC gen leads and checking AC output from all three phases. It's just not in the base manual. You should read over 60 VAC at higher RPM. I more often see 75 - 90 VAC on a good strong stator. I also look for a difference between thephases...they should allbe the same. It may be the if your only outputing a bit more than 60VAC, the stator is weak.

In my experience in testing 1200 stators, they most often fail by shorting to ground. On rare occasions, you can spot a bad one by checking AC output where both resistance tests have been passed. I've never heard of any DCV test as stated and see little use for it.

If you're reading battery voltage from an external Voltmeter, I've noticed they can be off by as much as .5 VDC. Are you taking readings directly at the battery? Also, it's surprising to me how much any added accessories can drop charging VDC. Additionally, sometimes problems show up with heat. If I get a questionable charging issue, I like to get the bike 'heat soaked' and retest.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
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Thanks guys. Tricky I did that test as well as ac volts, DC volts, amps, resistance, the whole smear all along the charging system where applicable. Thanks for info though.
Its not a deal breaker at all. I planned to poorboy it anyway. I had just never seed a stator, test good disconnected and then drop output on one wire when connected to the voltage regulator but this one does. I suppose its some short someplace that I simply am missing.
I wouldnt have even brought it up except out of curiosity since the plan was to poorboy it when i bought it anyway and it was charging fine then LOL.
Thanks again for the replys folks. Poorboy conversion in the works LOL
 

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You never mentioned checking for shorts in the stator. You can have good AC output across all three legs yet have one leg fail if there's a short. Ask glhonda...:cool:



And if you have no shorts, all stator tests are good, you've got a fully charged battery and the beast STILL won't go above 14vdc, check the battery cables..... That's what the problem was on another Ltd Ed down in Fla., the cables were burn't to a crisp on the insidewhilethe insulation still looked good!!!
 

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Ghostrider52005 wrote:
Its not a deal breaker at all. I planned to poorboy it anyway.. Poorboy conversion in the works LOL
I have two 85 Aspys both with good stators but running an external on both, the best way to go.
 

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Yep my LTD is on external. And a couple of friends are on external as well.
Roscoepc the thing may well have a short inside the stator. It tests ok but that is sort of what i was wondering if a short in the stator might still test good then drop off under a load.
In any case it was more of a academic question just for my own learnin dont ya see LOL. Ill poorboy any 1200 i ever own. After having two of em, and watching countless others lose their stators between 40 and 70 thousand some much sooner I figure might as well just do an external on em and get it over with.:)
 

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Most likely it is a poor internal connection that doesn't show itself until under load.
 

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Ghostrider52005 wrote:
Yep my LTD is on external. And a couple of friends are on external as well.
Roscoepc the thing may well have a short inside the stator. It tests ok but that is sort of what i was wondering if a short in the stator might still test good then drop off under a load.
In any case it was more of a academic question just for my own learnin dont ya see LOL. Ill poorboy any 1200 i ever own. After having two of em, and watching countless others lose their stators between 40 and 70 thousand some much sooner I figure might as well just do an external on em and get it over with.:)
Staying OEM or going the Poorboy route, I'd still check those battery cables!! After all... How old are they????? :cool::coollep::coollep:
 

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Ken Bergen wrote:
DaveO430 wrote:
Is that a typo or were you checking the stator output on DC?
I think our founder Steve posted that test.
You probe each yellow wire to check the DC voltage difference between it and the battery.

I couldn't see it as being relevant so never tried it.:?
I'm withyou Ken ..... :thumbsup:



Though I looked here and don't see such a test: http://www.goldwingfacts.com/GL1200Statortest.htm
 

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When i got this bike for the wife, I tore it down did a carb job on it checked all the cables battery included. Hardwired everything etc. And for a while it charged great until about the dreaded 40 thousand milage mark and as expected the charge died.
The one wire dropping off puzzled me a bit so i asked here just in case but sort of thought it was something internal.
As to the relavancy of Steves dc test on the stator wires, in retrospect, when I did that test it told the tale that the stator was kaput for whatever reason. Looking back i could have just done that test alone and known either replace the stator or poorboy. OH well live and learn LOL.
 

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roscoepc wrote:
And if you have no shorts, all stator tests are good.............
You didn't really say that did you Ros?



I have my wife do all my voltage tests. The meter is broken, but that's okay. She's filipino so I can't understand her anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
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If id known cuz i was out of shorts the stator was good Id have just thrown all my underwear away before i started LOL
 
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