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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I also was stuck at a few red lights on Friday and manually turned on the engine fan to avoid overheating. Perhaps I ran the fan a little too long while at low rpm. I lost the thermostat switch many years ago and the mechanic advised it would be cheaper to install a manual switch. Most of the time I like the option of turning the fan on myself before the engine gets way hot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I didn't check the connection at the regulator/rectifier as I thought if that were bad I wouldn't see increased voltage at the battery when I revved the engine.
 

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The VAC test is really the only way to test the magnetic field of the rotor. The stator tests are all done through the multimeter. I also like to do the stator tests with a high current which sometimes uncovers intermittent faults in the windings and their insulation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Replaced the regulator since that was easier but the problem remains. Looks like a stator is needed. Can't get more than 45 VAC or more than 12.5 V at the battery when revving the engine. Any more thoughts?
 

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your problem could be as simple as a bad solenoid connector or the regulator connectors need to be hardwired too
doing the solenoid mod may cure your charging problem,the solenoid connector is where your battery is ultimately "recharged"
 

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I didn't check the connection at the regulator/rectifier as I thought if that were bad I wouldn't see increased voltage at the battery when I revved the engine.
You can get a voltage increase but may not have full current available. Check stator resistance through the 3 poles and also to ground. Check ac voltage with the engine running between the poles
Most faults with these old charging circuits are bad connections:lash:
 
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