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Well I went to start the bike (86A) this morning and the battery was dead. I put my multi meter across the battery terminals and it was showing 11.8 at all engine speeds. I tested the battery at the local wall mart and they found it to be good. I had done a wiring upgrade a few months ago and so all my connections were hard wired. I cut the three yellow wires to do a continuity and voltage check and found continuity between all the wires AND continuity between all the wires and ground. Voltage check with the engine running showed no voltage at all from any of the wires.

I was suprised to find continuity between ALL the wires and ground and also no voltage at all from any of the wires.

Does this sound reasonable or could I have botched up the test somehow?

All indications I have say I need to replace the stator. I hope that there was no screw up when I did the upgrade. I have put on about 2000 miles since doing the upgrade though so I would think that would rule out any problem there but I wouldn't want to replace the stator and wind up frying it again.

And my last question is; If I do replace the stator, Do I have to remove the engine from the frame to do this or is there a more effective way to get at the stator?

How difficult is it to remove the engine? (ok Thats really the last question)

Thanks for your input in advance.
 

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Continuity between the wires is just one step, you need to check the output from each wire with the engine running. Should be around 4.5 or 5 volts at idle. If one or more yellow wire are lower (like 2 or 3 volts) then the stator is faulty. If all 3 wires are reading a healthy 4.5 or 5 volts but your not getting a reading to reflect this at the battery, then it will be either the regulator is faulty of the wiring between the stator and regulator is breaking down or corroded somewhere.
 

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airbeat, you ask:
I was surprised to find continuity between ALL the wires and ground and also no voltage at all from any of the wires.

Does this sound reasonable or could I have botched up the test somehow?
Some continuity between the 3 wires is normal & needed for the stator to function. Continuity between ANY of those 3 wires & GROUND is abnormal & means you have a short to ground in the stator. Do you have the SAME resistance to ground on ALL 3 wires? if so you are probably measuring something wrong. Remember the 3 yellow wires MUST be disconnected from the regulator & hanging free to get a usable reading on those 3 yellow wires. You also MUST measure the wires from the stator side, not the regulator side.
Voltage check with the engine running showed no voltage at all from any of the wires
That doesn't sound correct. Even with a shorted stator you should get some voltage from at least oneyellow wire as I seriously doubtall thestator segments are shorted to ground. Were you measuring BETWEEN each of the yellow wires?ALSO "important",were you using the AC scale & not the DC scale? Using the DC scale won't work on the 3 phase AC current from the stator.You should see somewhere around 50 volts AC between each yellow wire at 4,000+ rpms if your stator is working correctly. Remember, you MUST check the voltage BETWEEN the yellow wires & not to ground. You will not show a usable reading to ground with the 3 yellow wires disconnected from the regulator.
And my last question is; If I do replace the stator, Do I have to remove the engine from the frame to do this or is there a more effective way to get at the stator?
Yes, the engine must be removed. You can pull the carbs & intake up & wire up as a unit so then you can leave them & pull the engine from under the carbs & intake. The book says to pull BOTH timing belt covers but all you really need to pull is the R/H cover, belt & pulley. It isn't a bad job if you are fairly mechanically inclined & have done similar but as first time major project it can be trying.

You should really have a service manual before starting, then read it until you understand every operation. Then post back here on anything you don't understand to get clarified.

If your testing was correct & you have a failure in all 3 yellow wires you might want to check for a short to ground in the 3 yellow wires at the rear cover pass through or nearthe frame.

If that battery was completely dead you might not be above 11.8 volts even with a good charging system until it runs for a quite a while. It takes a long time for the stock charging system to elevate battery voltage at the battery if it was real low to begin with. Charge the battery first then recheck the battery voltage with it running at 4,000 rpm's.



Twisty
 

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Here's what I did Twisty. I cut the three yellow wires as they had been hardwired and from the stator side I attached the red test probe to each wire individually and the black probe to the frame for ground. All three wires came back with continuity. (full deflection on the analog scale) I then checked each wire together. red to yellow black to another yellow and got continuity there too. (supposed to be from what I understand) I then ran the engine and again with the multimeter set at 50V AC I attached black and red probes to yellow wires respectivly and got about 7 - 9 volts reading each on the meter. Thats at 3000 rpm.

I too thought I would get at least 50 volts on one or two of the wires but didn't happen.

Of course all this has happened because we are heading out in the morning to the Texas State Goldwing Rally which I will now be driving my Car to :X

I sure hate the idea of changing my stator. If you have any thoughts on something else to check I will be happy to do so when I get back on Monday. Otherwise do you or anyone else know of a shop that is near Marshall/Longview Texas that they could recommend? I'm not sure if I want' to get into this or not. I may have to finance wise but I'm looking at all the options.

I'm so sorry I just posted a note recently on how great my bike was running! I sure put the whammy on myself there.:(
 

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Hi airbeat see the pm I sent you on engine removal

hope it helps, good luck
 

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Just found one yellow wire that may have been broken under the shrink wrap where it was attached previously but the former owner. I removed the shrink wrap and tested the stator wire and get about 30 volts now from each yellow wire.

Still I'm showing continuity though when attaching red probe to yellow and black probe to frame. Cant find any external shorts from yellow wires leading from the stator.
 

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Thanks JOHNO. I may need it...
 

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Is it possible that I have a bad battery and it will not allow 14 volts or higher to register?
 

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Airbeat, you say:
I cut the three yellow wires as they had been hardwired and from the stator side I attached the red test probe to each wire individually and the black probe to the frame for ground. All three wires came back with continuity. (full deflection on the analog scale)
Analog meter eh. What scale were you using? See what you have on the X1 scale. If your were measuring on the X10,000 sale you might be seeing a little continuity just dueto the windings soaked with hot oil. If you are showing continuity to ground on the X1 scale you definitely have a shorted stator.
I then ran the engine and again with the multimeter set at 50V AC I attached black and red probes to yellow wires respectively and got about 7 - 9 volts reading each on the meter. Thats at 3000 rpm.
I haven't ever checked one with an analog meter so I suppose if you are using a meter with a low impedance you could be showing a lower voltage (probably not that low though). A couple of thoughts here; Make sure the meter leads were in the voltagejacks if your meter uses different input places for voltage, amps, or ohms. Also be sure you weren't trying to read amps & not volts. I have seen those stators not charge for a while after a hot start then reving the engine for a short while. I'm not sure if it's a hot soak thing or having to throw the oil off the rotor first. Try running the engine at a fast idle for a minute or two before testing. You might try a cheap digital multi-meter as a verification check before condemning the stator. Getting the exact same (low) voltage on all 3 wires is very suspect.
I sure hate the idea of changing my stator. If you have any thoughts on something else to check I will be happy to do so when I get back on Monday. Otherwise do you or anyone else know of a shop that is near Marshall/Longview Texas that they could recommend? I'm not sure if I want' to get into this or not. I may have to finance wise but I'm looking at all the options.
I'm from the other side of the world over here in Michigan so can't help you on a repair shop. If you are not dead set on keeping it stock you might look into an automotive alternator mounted up under the front side cover & belt driven from the front of the crankshaft. There seems to be quite a few people running that set-up. It wasn't an option for me as I ride my Wing in all weather & I couldn't see how I could completely seal out all the mud & rain from the drive belt & crank pulley area.

Twisty
 

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airbeat wrote:
Is it possible that I have a bad battery and it will not allow 14 volts or higher to register?
Sure, if that battery is internally shorted it will not allow the charge to build enough to go to the full charge voltage. Start the engine, then remove the positive battery cable & install your meter between the battery & cable end, place it on the DC AMPS scale, if you are showingover 3-4 amps (into the battery) at 4,000 RPM's you are probably charging OK &could have a bad battery.

Twisty
 

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airbeat wrote:
Just found one yellow wire that may have been broken under the shrink wrap where it was attached previously but the former owner. I removed the shrink wrap and tested the stator wire and get about 30 volts now from each yellow wire.

Still I'm showing continuity though when attaching red probe to yellow and black probe to frame. Cant find any external shorts from yellow wires leading from the stator.
30volts might not be too bad, try at 4,000-5,000 RPM's & see if it comes up some more.

See my last post on proper meter X scale. I doubt a shorted winding would allow the exact same (30)voltage on all 3 legs. Try a digital meter as that 50 volts is open circuit voltage & any load on the legs (possibly from your analog meter) could pull it lower.

Twisty
 

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Ok I will try all those suggestions now on Monday. Have to get ready to leave in the morning for the Texas GW Rally. I do thank you for your help and will update you all on Monday. I would love it if this turns out to not be a stator problem.
 

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airbeat wrote:
Ok I will try all those suggestions now on Monday. Have to get ready to leave in the morning for the Texas GW Rally. I do thank you for your help and will update you all on Monday. I would love it if this turns out to not be a stator problem.
airbeat, if you get a chance yet tonight you might re-measure the resistance to ground on those 3 wires again (on the X1 scale). If the resistance is still low you probably have a shorted stator. If you get very little needle deflection (no continuity to ground) your stator is probably ok & that alone will make your trip a little more pleasant.

If you have a low amp battery charger, charge the battery all night, then pull the charger off before leaving tomorrow. When you get home from your trip, re-measure the battery's voltage, if it is still up around 12.5-12.6 volts your battery is probably OK. If it is down to 12.2 orlower it is probably shot.

Twisty
 

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Hi Twisty, I'm back from the district rally. Had a blast! Now I went and bought a new battery on the way home and figured I'd give that a try before I did anything further. I put electrolyte in and hooked up the battery charger to it and it started charging at about 3 amps.

This was interesting since when I hooked up my old onboard battery on Thursday to the battery charger it started charging right away at 10 amps and after an hour of charging it was still up at 9-10 amps. Maybe I have a short in the battery somewhere after all? Anyhow the new battery is on the table charging overnight and I will put it in tomorrow right after work and see if I start getting a positive charge again.

Sure would be good news if it was just a battery problem after all.
 
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