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can anyone tell me if you can get the hard rubber type fitting out of the back of the stator cover without taking it off? one of the three wires is rotted off right that point. if that can't be done has anyone put the alternater covertion kit on? i have found one for $725.00, my bike is an '85 interstate with 55,000 miles on it. thanks, skip
 

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There is a circlip or snap ring that holds it in place but the wires and plug pull through from inside the cover so you may be out of luck. If you decide to go the poorboy way (alternator conversion) many here will post links to that info.
The Administrator of this site just posted a helpful video for changing the stator which unfortunately requires engine removal.
 

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Not sure what you mean by " rotted " but hopefully after removing the grommet you will have enough wire to fix .
 

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rotted = corrosion which has the appearance of something "rotting"
 

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That rubber plug also acts as an oil seal. It pushes into the rear cover as wingsam mentioned.
 

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I didn't know that was an oil seal. THAT is very helpful, corroded was the word I was looking for, therer is no wire left to work with so the stator has to be replaced or the alternater conversion kit will have to be installed. Thanks to everyone for your responses. Does anyone know a mechanic near Battle Creek, mich.?
 

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What I found on one I was working on was there made of black plastic it got hot of course and the material amount that holds the circlip breaks off I had one the same way before replacement the new is made of aluminum Ive put two in now..If your not pulling the engine to replace what Id do is clean the area around the hole and light clue or epoxy it closed using the wires that are there to pull it fast while it drys but if its really oil invested that might be a problem Good luck...
 

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Thanks, did you push it in a little to clean and glue it or did you do it where it was
 

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Are you removing it to replace the stator,Is the stator dead,It really isnt a hard job if you have the tools and a jack..Clean the area real good seal around case not in it and let dry then snip wires and seal the ends..If wires break it will be tough Id hate to see it go back in the engine brake up and possibly do damage...Long story short thats a small way around Really not the right and sound way others no way more and will help....Remember the plug seals oil from coming out if plug was out you could easily find another way to seal that..Good luck be safe
 

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for that price installing a "poorboy" would make for a cheap ride,as long as everything else is in good shape
 

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The O ring looks to be set a 1/2" back from the edge Steve. Maybe you can get just enough wire to pull through and solder onto the other piece.

Have you still got that old stator to check if the wires will pull through a bit?
 

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That all looks very fragile and the wires easy to break.
 

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Hate to say it but IMHO the best bet is to replace the stator-(unless you go poorboy/external alternator mod). Even if you are able to get the wire to solder, the risk of it breaking on a long trip and leaving you stranded makes it a repair I would'nt trust. It's your ride and you should do what makes you comfortable-just my 2 cents.
 

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Thanks AZ ... was wondering if only wire insulation was bad and wire was good as no indication was given that the stator was malfunctioning.
I suspect that the wiring is double insulated "inside" this critical grommett/oilseal and perhaps a " cold soldering " fix to whats left of the wire would be something to consider before having to pull the motor etc.?
 

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I wouldnt solder it at all and attempt to use that stator,My thoughts were use poorboy if you dont pull it and replace stator theres no way Id feel comfy traveling like that could go at anytime unless you dont mind walking be safe pull it and replace..Last stator cost me 129delivered then the [email protected]then we all no what the heck go for the timing belts...But youll have a saferide..
 

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Since you have the Interstate model without the coolant bypass hose in the way, I would definitely go with the poorboy kit. It will permanently solve all your charging system problems. I don't know where you got the $725 number, but you should be able to get a stator for under $300. I recommend www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com. They sell good stuff. You will have to pull the engine to replace it, but that is not as hard as it looks, it just takes a lot of time.

However, I still recommend the poorboy kit. The stock Goldwing charging system is just a poor design IMO, and runs way too hot. Mine melted all 3 plastic connectors between the stator and regulator, and after soldering the wires together, the regulator still runs at near 300 degrees F, and has burned the installation on the wires connected to it. The poorboy kit uses a controlled output alternator, and does not use any part of the original charging system.

The stator does run in oil, and there is oil behind that black plug where the yellow wires come out. But you should be able to seal it. If the plug is still solidly in place, just cut the wires off even with it. If you have some minor oil seepage, you can clean the plug off really good with spray contact cleaner, and put silicone on it (real silicone, not RTV). I have done that on a couple of bikes that were leaking just a little around that plug, even though the wires were still good and the stator was still working. In both cases it stopped the leak.

If the plug is loose, or a chunk of it is missing, you have a bigger problem. It would be neat if you could remove the entire plug from outside, but that is unlikely. After being baked for 26 years, it will be brittle, and some pieces are certain to fall inside the engine, so you still have to pull the engine.
 
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