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A friends 96 SE is doing this. You know, the 2 cruise bulbs, low fuel, oil press, reverse bulb, etc. After about 20 tries, they finally go out. But, when will it happen again? Anyone ever had this happen? I find absolutely nothing in service manual about this. Not even a "How does it work" !!
 

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Might be the #3 relay (Tail, Main Relay). If it is sticking that would cause what you are describing. Try swapping it with another relay and see if that cures the problem.
 

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If #3 is stuck open, no tail-lights. Stuck closed, Tailights all the time. We're not doing that. I think that maybe there's a timer as part of LCD display, that grounds those bulbs for 2 secs., But, I find nothing in 90, 94, 96 manual about t-shooting that circuit, other than a diagram in ETS. But if they stay on, that means the "test ground" is stuck on. Almost gotta be an electronic timer problem. He also told me the LCD is going crazy in it's readings, and he gave up setting the clock. I think maybe it has the infamous "Wet lcd board" problem. Prolly will end up pulling it, heating it up with hair dryer, and coating it with some sealer. Always something with these older bikes.
 

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What you are describing is voltage changes. The 12V nominal voltage from 10-15 is causing havoc. Get a good quality non residue contact cleaner and clean out the relays and relay sockets. Clean up the alternator, reg and rectifier. Any humming on the bikes electrical system, fast switching or regulated power supplies that may interfere. A loose or non contacting and contacting ground may cause this.
 

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Oregonwinger wrote:
I think maybe it has the infamous "Wet lcd board" problem..
That's a long shot. We've all read about and known people with the clock going haywire, but I've never heard of it affecting the dash test timer.
 

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I actually have found several citations of that very thing, late yesterday afternoon, on various forums. I am now sure it's a LCD board problem., That's where the timer is, and the bike is backed into a small shed with no door, and it's been very humid the past few weeks. 70% and higher. So, I will do the "seal job". His clock is knackered, anyway, so it's needed.
 

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Yep, +! I'm late to the game here, but th bulb-check is part of the LCD board and will run indempendant of the rest of the bike. Be sure that you clean/dry the board prior to conformal-coating it. (I routinely use isppropryl alcohol 98% or better for the initial cleaning deliberately to suck-up additional moisture)
 

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Stan, I gotta plead my ignorance here. :? what's tconfromap? Arabic for Acrylic laquer?

LOL :cheesygrin:
 

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Oregonwinger wrote:
Stan, I gotta plead my ignorance here. :? what's tconfromap? Arabic for Acrylic laquer?

LOL :cheesygrin:
OK, embarassment or laughter... My appologies -- I intended to type "CONFORMAL"... I don't have a cat to blame that on or anything! (So Sorry!)



I edited the original -- yeah - whatever coating you're gonna use acrylic or other



:gunhead:
 

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Thanks, Stan. When I use my voice input on the phone, it'll occasionally come up with some off the wall result, that's almost laughable. Thanks so much for your input.

I got myself involved in this 96, up some dark canyon, that's been a pig-in-the-poke since day one. Every day up there, something new develops. And he always says "Gee, it's never done that before". And talk about mickey-mouse reassembly from former tinkerers !! And, 24 miles each time I go up there, is killing my bill.
 

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FWIW, I had the LCD issue and on mine, the display would blank out. Originally I would take it out for a ride and a couple miles down the road, the circuit board would dry out, the LCD would come back on, and most of the idiot lights would come on for a second and then go out. I tried the fix by cleaning the back of the circuit board and putting 2 coats of IIRC clear lacquer spray on it. It helped but went back to the malfunction at times. I pulled it out again and put about 5 more layers of the clear lacquer on the back of the circuit board but then also cleaned all the connectors and then packed all the connectors with dielectric grease. So far, no more malfunctions. Was it several more layers to seal the circuit board, packing the connectors, or a combination of both? I don't know but I am happy with the results.
 

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That's good input, pwhoever. Thanks.

So, you had the idiot lite scenario, along with other problems. Glad you got it fixed. Just wish it was easier to pull out. I'm really getting to dis-like these wings. Everything is a lengthy process to get into. :lash:
 

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I would be driving down the road for a few miles and all of a sudden, the dash would come to life. My idiot lights wouldn't stay on though. Flash on briefly and then go out but the LCD would then work fine after that until another damp situation. On occasion, I would have a different problem. I would come to a stop, there would be high humidity condition, maybe raining, and parts/characters of the LCD would be visible. It was like there was still some power being supplied to the LCD. Maybe that is what is happening to your idiot lights????

One other very important thing that I came across during times of the "blank" display. The air compressor would not function so there was no way to check air pressure in the rear shock or adjust it. But once the LCD was back on, the compressor would function again. I would say that would be another good reason to tackle the LCD board.

And yes, I know what you mean. That circuit board is a real pain to get to. But look on the bright side, get it cleaned and then sealed with numerous coats of lacquer, change out all the bulbs to LED's (Except of course the low fuel and cruise lights), pack the connectors with dialectric grease, and it will probably never have to be removed again....

With any luck if you do this project, your problem will be solved....

(maybe I should start using spellchecker. I wouldn't have to edit as many posts as I do......)
 

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A good time to service the speedo cable, which I doubt has been done in it's 85k miles.
 
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