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I had the front end up off the ground checking the front wheel bearings when a friend came over and started turning the handlebars. When the wheel is facing straight forward you can feel a slight click in the handlebar grips. My friend says theres a groove in the race but I can't see that being so. Tapered roller bearings are always moving in the race so i can't see how a groove could get in a hardened race. Not having much front end Wing experience I was wonder. Is the blinker cancel a switch that is hit once the bars straighten up and could caause a slight click? I want to change my wheel bearings cause its the only thing I haven't done to it and would wait til a winter teardown if the whole front end has to come off.

Al
 

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Yes bearings can wear a groove in the race. It would take a whole lot of riding on a straight road but quite possible and they have probably never been serviced. I don't think the steering angle sensor could cause the click .
 

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It may not have a groove in it but a detent from the ball bearings, the steering head should be smooth. I did my 1100 last winter and it made a big differents in feel and the frontend quit wobbling. I had to take the whole frontend apart.
 

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Is the blinkercancel called the steering angle sensor? From my experience with trucks tapered roller bearings, in a limited movement situation are always moving in the race and never really stay in one spot so as to always be touching the race in the same place....or so I always thought. BUT, if they have been known to get a groove from experience, i'll put it on the winter list... Thanks Al
 

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I think the two sensors you are talking about are the bank angle sensor (below the trunk on the right hand side) and the turn signal cancel control (mounted inside the steering head).
 

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mikef wrote:
the turn signal cancel control (mounted inside the steering head).
Mike.....exactly the turn signal canel switch. The click I feel with the wheel up in the air is ever so slight. I was wondering with the wheel floating like that if I would be able feel the switch clicking when it turns. But I do have to point out the turn signals aren't on when I feel it so they wouldn't technically be shutting the blinkers off. Properly torqued bearings would be touching all the way around the race so where would this groove be, to the front or rear. I do a lot of freeway driving Straight ahead.

Al
 

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if the steering head bearings are slightly loose ,this helps the cause the flat spot. every time you hit the brakes(especially hard braking), this causes the rollers to hit the race. not just roll around it. over time this rocking and hammering causes the worn area.
doing wheelies will just make it worse!:cheeky1:
 

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Motosickle wrote:
if the steering head bearings are slightly loose ,this helps the cause the flat spot. every time you hit the brakes(especially hard braking), this causes the rollers to hit the race. not just roll around it. over time this rocking and hammering causes the worn area.
I torqued the headover the winter. But now that you mention it I can feel a very light something movement when I hit the brakes. You saying it brought it to mind. It doesn't always happen but maybe it does and I just don't feel it. It should last til the end of November when I usually stop riding since the races and the bearings will both need changed out. I did try a wheelie in a parking lot but never got the tire off the ground.

Al
 

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I don't think there should be a groove there, either. And I don't think you would hear the switch, canceling. As long are planning on taking everything apart, I would change both bearings and races.
 

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mikef wrote:
I don't think there should be a groove there, either. And I don't think you would hear the switch, canceling. As long are planning on taking everything apart, I would change both bearings and races.
Now thats what i'm talking about.........If you look at the construction of a tapered roller bearing and its function and the race.........WHERE could a detent or groove have come from. Also the groove would have to be up and down and for that to happen one bearing would have had to been doing it in this system all bearings are touching all the time. I really didn't want to start an argument about the bearing. I was really just wondering if there was something else that could be causing the click feel (reminder, you can't hear it, only feel it in the grip with the wheel off the ground) That new ST1300 is looking better everyday....Now I know why I never kept a bike longer than 5 years....If I didn't do my own work I'd have dump this bike last year. Oops a rant to myself. This reminds me of something my mom used to say only opposite; put a dollar a day away everyday and at the end of the year you'll have a lot of money....I dump in a dollar a day on this bike and at the end of the year I have a lot of money and still have a 1996 bike. :shock: AL
 

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Predator wrote:
mikef wrote:
I don't think there should be a groove there, either. And I don't think you would hear the switch, canceling. As long are planning on taking everything apart, I would change both bearings and races.
Now thats what i'm talking about.........If you look at the construction of a tapered roller bearing and its function and the race.........WHERE could a detent or groove have come from. Also the groove would have to be up and down and for that to happen one bearing would have had to been doing it in this system all bearings are touching all the time. I really didn't want to start an argument about the bearing. I was really just wondering if there was something else that could be causing the click feel (reminder, you can't hear it, only feel it in the grip with the wheel off the ground) That new ST1300 is looking better everyday....Now I know why I never kept a bike longer than 5 years....If I didn't do my own work I'd have dump this bike last year. Oops a rant to myself. This reminds me of something my mom used to say only opposite; put a dollar a day away everyday and at the end of the year you'll have a lot of money....I dump in a dollar a day on this bike and at the end of the year I have a lot of money and still have a 1996 bike. :shock: AL
I'LL TAKE IT IF YOU DON"T WANT IT ANYMORE!!:D
 

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Mr Fix It.....thats a good name for an old GoldWing owners name. Here's what i'll do. I'll tally up everything I got into the bike and PM you the price. You get the cash and i'll meet you half way and its yours..... Sound like a deal? Al
 

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I had that kind of problem on my 1200 a while back. The bearings can get a "notch" in them. (I call it a notch because I am not really sure what it is.) There will become a spot that the rollers will feel like they are falling into and it will sort of stick there as you turn the handle bar back and forth. It starts out very mild, hardly noticable. Then it will get worse and worse, getting to be just an irritating thing, then eventually it will causeyou to get behind on your steering. When that happens, it could be dangerous.

As you aren't sure what you are feeling, it's possible that it's something else. But that's how mine progressed and that's what mine turned out to be.

If it does turn out to be your bearings, it will get worse over the next thousand miles, maybe two. At least that's how long I recall I rode on mine before I felt it was dangerous.
 

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I didn't think the head bearings were tapered roller bearings, but ball bearings? A lot of guys are changing to the tapered roller bearings to help with the handlebar wobble at slow speed.
 

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The 1500's use tapered roller bearings.
 

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After doubting the 'notch' theory. I went to my local bearing distributors and they said that can absolutley happen. I'll wait til winter which doesn't seem far off and tear it down if I don't get rid of it first. My local Honda dealer has a2 year old ST for sale and if I can get a good price I may pick it up. I had a great heated shop with all the tool before my divorce and got rid of it all, so working on bikes isn't a passion anymore. I just want to buy them to ride em but with this economy a set of bearings may be a better way to go. Anyway, thanks for making me aware of this notch thing. I would never have checked into it this deeply and may have ignored it cause I didn't think it was true. Great debates on this site bring a lot of facts to light. Thanks again. Al
 

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I've changed steering head bearings that definitely had a notchey feel. One cause of wear like that is old grease that gets dried out and doesn't provide proper lubrication and the fact that the bearings turn very little in use. What usually happens is worn or corroded areas next to each roller, not just one. You can see the discoloration in the outer bearing race when it's cleaned up.

About the only thing you can do with a bearing like that is replace it.
 

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Over tightening of the bearing setjust once will do in a set of otherwise healthy bearings as well..:(
 

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Exavid ,another valid point. I made my mind up to rebuild the whole front end. Also I just took a 2005 FZ1 for a test drive......I hope it'll be in the garage next week. Now thats a bike you can loose your drivers license riding........ I hadn't considered a Yamaha but this one is nice its real lowand FAST as hell !!!!!!!!! Al
 

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Mr. Fix it wrote:
Over tightening of the bearing setjust once will do in a set of otherwise healthy bearings as well..:(
Mr. F, that starts another subject. I machined a special socket while i was still working to torque the bearings. The only problem was when I did I had to add a 10" extension to the ratchet so I was able toget in and turn it with all the stuff in the way. I don't know if the reading with an extension overtightens the nut or under. But I do know an extension cheanges the reading. I set it at the required spec but did I actually 'OVER' tighten it with the extension. I made my assumption when I was done by the feel of the handlebar movement. It was smoothe but not real tight, no play.
 
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