Steering Shake, GL1800
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Not for me. Replaced bearings with tapered ones and the vibration went away. Same tires. Same inflation. Tested bike on a road going same said speed and everything. Bike shaking. Did exact same test afterwards. No shake. Bearings don't get loose over time. They wear out. If the bike wasn't shaking once the nut was tightened, then it should never shake. That nut never gets loose unless you installed them wrong. Its got a lock ring on it to prevent that from happening. The real reason the nut appears to be loose and you tighten it some more is the bearing cage is made out of PLASTIC and it wears down!!! Very cheap material. So you tighten it up to take up the slack.
Not for me. Replaced bearings with tapered ones and the vibration went away. Same tires. Same inflation. Tested bike on a road going same said speed and everything. Bike shaking. Did exact same test afterwards. No shake. Bearings don't get loose over time. They wear out. If the bike wasn't shaking once the nut was tightened, then it should never shake. That nut never gets loose unless you installed them wrong. Its got a lock ring on it to prevent that from happening. The real reason the nut appears to be loose and you tighten it some more is the bearing cage is made out of PLASTIC and it wears down!!! Very cheap material. So you tighten it up to take up the slack.
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Wing-Rider - the bearing cage just holds the roller elements apart. They have little or nothing really to do with the increasing tolerance issue. Whether made of plastic or metal, doesn't really matter. The bearing races and roller bearing elements themselves are the critical wear items. Unless the races are dimpled/deformed, a retorque (a little tightening) should adjust for slight wear. ... my 25 cents.
Wing-Rider - the bearing cage just holds the roller elements apart. They have little or nothing really to do with the increasing tolerance issue. Whether made of plastic or metal, doesn't really matter. The bearing races and roller bearing elements themselves are the critical wear items. Unless the races are dimpled/deformed, a retorque (a little tightening) should adjust for slight wear. ... my 25 cents.
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Darn it - double post again!?
Darn it - double post again!?
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Yo have just turned your bike into a trike. If the triple tree has not been raked, at low speeds you will experience 'head shake'. My 2000 1500 had the same issues w/o the triple tree done. My 1800 has no issues with triple tree done.
Yo have just turned your bike into a trike. If the triple tree has not been raked, at low speeds you will experience 'head shake'. My 2000 1500 had the same issues w/o the triple tree done. My 1800 has no issues with triple tree done.
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I have a 1986 GW 1200 Aspencade that does the same thing. If I take my hands off the handlebars at anything below 40 MPH the front end will shake out of control. Higher speeds don't seem to bother it but5 to 40 MPH its quite pronounced. I looked up what is involved in replacing the bearings and im afraid I am going to have to put up with the problem a lot longer especially since it is not a problem as long as I hold onto the handlebars. Never have any reason to let loose of them anyway. :byebye:
Harold
I have a 1986 GW 1200 Aspencade that does the same thing. If I take my hands off the handlebars at anything below 40 MPH the front end will shake out of control. Higher speeds don't seem to bother it but5 to 40 MPH its quite pronounced. I looked up what is involved in replacing the bearings and im afraid I am going to have to put up with the problem a lot longer especially since it is not a problem as long as I hold onto the handlebars. Never have any reason to let loose of them anyway. :byebye:
Harold
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When I complained about the shake to my mechanic he said (and I quote).......
"Well then, don't take your hands of the handlebars, stoopid!" The fact that I am a paying customer apparently had no influence on his advice. :?
While that WAS good advice, the shake eventually disappeared when I put a new front tire on.
T.
When I complained about the shake to my mechanic he said (and I quote).......
"Well then, don't take your hands of the handlebars, stoopid!" The fact that I am a paying customer apparently had no influence on his advice. :?
While that WAS good advice, the shake eventually disappeared when I put a new front tire on.
T.
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Daryl Martel wrote:
Believe what you want but plastic bearings are inferior and will not hold up under pressure.
Also, I have never seen plastic wheel bearings. Hmmmm.
Daryl Martel wrote:
It has everything to do with it. You can only tighten it down so much before it breaks on you. That plastic can only take so much pressure before it gives out.
Believe what you want but plastic bearings are inferior and will not hold up under pressure.
Also, I have never seen plastic wheel bearings. Hmmmm.
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The bearing races and roller elements are not plastic - I have a replacement steering stem/triple tree with new bearings sitting right here at home waiting to get installed in spring. If you have tapered roller bearings with plastic cages, it is inconsequential - the cages support no load. Here is a little bearing FAQ info:
http://www.ahrinternational.com/introduction_to_bearings.htm
& here: http://www.irusa.com.br/catalogos/Timken/USA_chap_1.pdf
Here's a quote from the above link: "Under normal operating conditions, the
cone, cup and rollers carry the load while the cage separates the rollers."
The bearing races and roller elements are not plastic - I have a replacement steering stem/triple tree with new bearings sitting right here at home waiting to get installed in spring. If you have tapered roller bearings with plastic cages, it is inconsequential - the cages support no load. Here is a little bearing FAQ info:
http://www.ahrinternational.com/introduction_to_bearings.htm
& here: http://www.irusa.com.br/catalogos/Timken/USA_chap_1.pdf
Here's a quote from the above link: "Under normal operating conditions, the
cone, cup and rollers carry the load while the cage separates the rollers."
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As other explained ,the plastic cage , dont effect the strengt ot THAT bearing.
With that being said , i must say that i also like the tapered roller better.
As other explained ,the plastic cage , dont effect the strengt ot THAT bearing.
With that being said , i must say that i also like the tapered roller better.
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Didn't change my mind. Ball bearings are the incorrect part to use in this application. The only reason they use them is because they're cheap. Both in material and application.
Oh, that was the first upgrade I did on my 07. I never had to re-tighten my bearing nut since. If I had the original bearings, I'd be replacing them or re-tightening them often. But I can only tighten them so much before I have no other choice to replace them because I reached the limit I can tighten them.
Didn't change my mind. Ball bearings are the incorrect part to use in this application. The only reason they use them is because they're cheap. Both in material and application.
Oh, that was the first upgrade I did on my 07. I never had to re-tighten my bearing nut since. If I had the original bearings, I'd be replacing them or re-tightening them often. But I can only tighten them so much before I have no other choice to replace them because I reached the limit I can tighten them.
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RIZHACKER.....On the front wheel, both sides, there is a 4 position setting that you change with a screw driver. Haven't got a clue as to what is does. All I know is I experimented with the settings and it is now set on the figure 1, both sides,whereas it was on 3. The shake is completely gone.
Did some internet searching and found that I have adjusted the T.R.A.C. Anti-Dive System. It is now set on the Light anti dive position and it is going to stay therel.
RIZHACKER.....On the front wheel, both sides, there is a 4 position setting that you change with a screw driver. Haven't got a clue as to what is does. All I know is I experimented with the settings and it is now set on the figure 1, both sides,whereas it was on 3. The shake is completely gone.
Did some internet searching and found that I have adjusted the T.R.A.C. Anti-Dive System. It is now set on the Light anti dive position and it is going to stay therel.
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