Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
imported post

If I rise my hands off the steering..the front end starts to shake. What is the cause of this? I also have a trike Instra kit on the bike, coould this be the cause? I have a 2005 GT 1800. Rick
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,221 Posts
imported post

I would check the steering bearing lock nut to make sure it is properly tight.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
26,550 Posts
imported post

The shake is caused by a tire problem, I don't care what anyone says the steering bearings won't cause a shake, only help dampen it out if they are tight. Could be the insta trike if one of the tires is out of round or balance.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,851 Posts
imported post

Never had a steering head shake as long as the steering head bearings are properly torqued no matter how worn the tires are. Properly inflated of coarse.
gumbyred
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
675 Posts
imported post

DaveO430 wrote:
The shake is caused by a tire problem,
My experience too!

T.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,074 Posts
imported post

Not for me. Replaced bearings with tapered ones and the vibration went away. Same tires. Same inflation. Tested bike on a road going same said speed and everything. Bike shaking. Did exact same test afterwards. No shake. Bearings don't get loose over time. They wear out. If the bike wasn't shaking once the nut was tightened, then it should never shake. That nut never gets loose unless you installed them wrong. Its got a lock ring on it to prevent that from happening. The real reason the nut appears to be loose and you tighten it some more is the bearing cage is made out of PLASTIC and it wears down!!! Very cheap material. So you tighten it up to take up the slack.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
616 Posts
imported post

Wing-Rider - the bearing cage just holds the roller elements apart. They have little or nothing really to do with the increasing tolerance issue. Whether made of plastic or metal, doesn't really matter. The bearing races and roller bearing elements themselves are the critical wear items. Unless the races are dimpled/deformed, a retorque (a little tightening) should adjust for slight wear. ... my 25 cents.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
105 Posts
imported post

Yo have just turned your bike into a trike. If the triple tree has not been raked, at low speeds you will experience 'head shake'. My 2000 1500 had the same issues w/o the triple tree done. My 1800 has no issues with triple tree done.
 

·
Gregarious Greeter
Joined
·
16,809 Posts
imported post

[align=center]

[/align]
[align=center]Welcome rlzhacker[/align]
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
26,550 Posts
imported post

Wing-Rider wrote:
Not for me. Replaced bearings with tapered ones and the vibration went away. Same tires. Same inflation. Tested bike on a road going same said speed and everything. Bike shaking. Did exact same test afterwards. No shake. Bearings don't get loose over time. They wear out. If the bike wasn't shaking once the nut was tightened, then it should never shake. That nut never gets loose unless you installed them wrong. Its got a lock ring on it to prevent that from happening. The real reason the nut appears to be loose and you tighten it some more is the bearing cage is made out of PLASTIC and it wears down!!! Very cheap material. So you tighten it up to take up the slack.
But still the bearings did not "cause" the shake, the new bearings just dampened it out.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
344 Posts
imported post

I think FordofCanada nailed it.:applause:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
101 Posts
imported post

I have a 1986 GW 1200 Aspencade that does the same thing. If I take my hands off the handlebars at anything below 40 MPH the front end will shake out of control. Higher speeds don't seem to bother it but5 to 40 MPH its quite pronounced. I looked up what is involved in replacing the bearings and im afraid I am going to have to put up with the problem a lot longer especially since it is not a problem as long as I hold onto the handlebars. Never have any reason to let loose of them anyway. :byebye:



Harold
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
675 Posts
imported post

When I complained about the shake to my mechanic he said (and I quote).......

"Well then, don't take your hands of the handlebars, stoopid!" The fact that I am a paying customer apparently had no influence on his advice. :?

While that WAS good advice, the shake eventually disappeared when I put a new front tire on.

T.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,074 Posts
imported post

Daryl Martel wrote:
Wing-Rider - the bearing cage just holds the roller elements apart. They have little or nothing really to do with the increasing tolerance issue. Whether made of plastic or metal, doesn't really matter. The bearing races and roller bearing elements themselves are the critical wear items. Unless the races are dimpled/deformed, a retorque (a little tightening) should adjust for slight wear. ... my 25 cents.
It has everything to do with it. You can only tighten it down so much before it breaks on you. That plastic can only take so much pressure before it gives out.

Believe what you want but plastic bearings are inferior and will not hold up under pressure.

Also, I have never seen plastic wheel bearings. Hmmmm.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
616 Posts
imported post

The bearing races and roller elements are not plastic - I have a replacement steering stem/triple tree with new bearings sitting right here at home waiting to get installed in spring. If you have tapered roller bearings with plastic cages, it is inconsequential - the cages support no load. Here is a little bearing FAQ info:

http://www.ahrinternational.com/introduction_to_bearings.htm

& here: http://www.irusa.com.br/catalogos/Timken/USA_chap_1.pdf



Here's a quote from the above link: "Under normal operating conditions, the
cone, cup and rollers carry the load while the cage separates the rollers."
 

Attachments

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
1,716 Posts
imported post

As other explained ,the plastic cage , dont effect the strengt ot THAT bearing.
With that being said , i must say that i also like the tapered roller better.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,074 Posts
imported post

Didn't change my mind. Ball bearings are the incorrect part to use in this application. The only reason they use them is because they're cheap. Both in material and application.

Oh, that was the first upgrade I did on my 07. I never had to re-tighten my bearing nut since. If I had the original bearings, I'd be replacing them or re-tightening them often. But I can only tighten them so much before I have no other choice to replace them because I reached the limit I can tighten them.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
101 Posts
imported post

RIZHACKER.....On the front wheel, both sides, there is a 4 position setting that you change with a screw driver. Haven't got a clue as to what is does. All I know is I experimented with the settings and it is now set on the figure 1, both sides,whereas it was on 3. The shake is completely gone.



Did some internet searching and found that I have adjusted the T.R.A.C. Anti-Dive System. It is now set on the Light anti dive position and it is going to stay therel.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
26,550 Posts
imported post

Jaymom wrote:
RIZHACKER.....On the front wheel, both sides, there is a 4 position setting that you change with a screw driver. Haven't got a clue as to what is does. All I know is I experimented with the settings and it is now set on the figure 1, both sides,whereas it was on 3. The shake is completely gone.



Did some internet searching and found that I have adjusted the T.R.A.C. Anti-Dive System. It is now set on the Light anti dive position and it is going to stay therel.
The 1800 does not have that type of anti-dive or an adjustment.
It seems rlzhacker has left the building anyway.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top