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Just finished greasing steering stem bearings because I thought the the tree was a little on the stiff side. I have read in the forums that there should be some stiffness to it and not loose so handlebars move side to side.Bearings looked good after a good cleaning and some Honda Moly grease. The old grease was a little on the hard side and it does feel better now. It is just a little weired to think that it operates that snug and auto wheel bearings work the opposite as far as snug it up and back off a notch so it turns freely. Oh well, waitng for the progressive springs and all the other parts for the fork rebuild and wheel bearing change out. This old bike has been a constant repair since I got it. I've only put 400 mi. on it. What do I expect from such an old classic?
 

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Biggest difference is to allow a film of grease on the rollers of the high speed rotation bearings and prevent binding from heat build up. Considering that three maybe four rollers support the load on a horizonal shaft you are not overloading the bearing with the preload tightnessdue to theslow rotation of the steerhead bearing.

Just my take on how I see it.:waving: Keno
 

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There is a critical "steering play" check of the bearing tightness. You will need the manual. The bars need to move from side to side 1-1/2 times before coming to a slow stop.

Too tight is very bad! Also there is no heat build up on these bearings at all from friction like a wheel bearing.

Use caution when setting the steering play!!!
 

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Greetings,

Here's a tutorial out of "Wing World."

http://tinyurl.com/pfxu3

crap, long URL........sorry never caught on to how to shrink them.......

Hobie



EDIT: Fixed the long URL for you :waving:
 

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Thanks for all the info. I just finished making my adjusting nut tool out of a 1 3/4 Ridgid holesaw. Also bought a micro torque wrench. After doing the back and forth thing and loosening and retorquing it is much better although it sometimes feels like flat spots. The PO had the nut so tight I had to beat it off with a hammer and big screwdriver. The bearings and races looked and felt ok, maybe a cable or something binding up.
 

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If you're feeling a 'flat spot' when the wheel is facing straight ahead as you're turning the handlebars. You need to replace the races and bearings. I had this situation clearly explained to me just a month or 2 ago on this site. I am in the process of doing mine right now and found a groove in the race. I guess it only gets worse , then it get dangerous. I ordered a bearing set from cyclemax, with the seals it was only 26 bucks. It seems if you have it torn down enough to grease, may as well change the works.

Al
 

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It's our riding season here so I hope I can get all these things done sooner than later. Going over to Honda to order more parts for fork and front wheel rebuild. Progressive springs are on their way. I have found that Hondas prices are comparable buy the time I pay for shipping and the parts are usually always here in 3 days.
 

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One little trick that a Honda mechnic showed me was to pop the grease cap off of the bearing and take some good wheel bearing grease and massage it into the ball bearings. If the inside race is already full of grease, I wouldn't bother with it but with the "all balls" brand, they needed it. Then just pop the cap back on.

Regards,

Hobie
 

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I am just about to start work on my GL1800 ready for next year. I got the 'All balls' tapered steering stem bearings kit and also the Honda torque adjusting socket from Cyclemax when I was in the States last month. I intend to replace the stock bearings with the tapered ones to eliminate a slight shake in the steering. Also going to fit progressive springs, change the fork oil, clutch & brake fluids and finally give it a full service with new oil / filter etc.

I am no mechanic but was fortunate to purchase Fred Harmon's maintainence videos and they are absolutely brilliant for any DIY GL1800 owners. I simply set the TV/DVD up in the garage and get to work following Fred's video as I go. I tend to overservice my bike as I enjoy working on it and to date I have had no problems with it. Fred's DVD's have saved me a fortune on service bills. At least when I do it myself I know it has been done.
 

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Well the continuing saga of the stem bearings. I knew that there was something just not right with the bearings even after cleaning and regreasing without removing the stem. Too many flat spots so I droped the stem out and was turning the stem upside down to clean bearings and they all fell out from the bottom bearings. I'm so glad I didnt put it back together. My instincts told me not to. I know that someone in the forum has made a tool to remove the races. Anyone have that link or the easiest way to remove them?
 

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The new bearings are in and torqued right. Wow what a difference,nice and smooth from left to right. Waiting for some o rings and other misc. parts to complete the complete front end rebuild
 

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You did remember theseal that goes under the lower bearing?
 

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Good on yer, I didn't.:shock:Nothing like ruining a new bearing so you can put a seal under it.:doh:
 

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Exavid, I don't know about the 1200 like Craig but I was wondering if there is anything tricky about removing the self canceling blinkers that run thru the neck on the 1500. There isn't much info on the system or even how it works. Does it just bolt back on or is there adjustments that need to be set to get it to work right?

Al
 

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It's just a bolt in affair, remove two at the bottom under the steering stem, pull the switch down far enough to disconnect it at the connector and out it comes. You can then pull the rubber and wire off the top end of the stem if you need to.
 
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