[goldwingnut]

imported post

If I remove the digital dash on my 83 there is a nut that looks like the one described for the steering stem nut. It has a wire going down through it for the turn cancel. Is that the nut or do I have to remove more? Seems too easy to get to.How do you tighten it with the wire coming up through it? Thanks in advance.

 

[Rudy]

imported post

On my 1500, I straddle the wire with the legs of the tool I made.

 

[goldwingnut]

imported post

Is that the nut though?

 

[Rudy]

imported post

Donno. The picture is fuzzy and I don't have an 1100.

 

[goldwingnut]

imported post

I had it open last fall and wasn't sure . It just didn' look right for some reason. I guess I will have to look again and take a pic. Unless someone else has more knowledge of he 83 aspy stem wih digiguages.

 

[Rudy]

imported post

Post the picture and you will know real quick.

 

[Hobie1]

imported post

Greetings,

D/L the OEM manual from thereference and FAQsection and there is the whole tamale on your concern. You didn't mention if you'd taken the handle bars off. Anyway, the steering stem nut is the nut on top of the center of the triple tree. The forks pivot around this central area.

Good luck. BTW, Rudy, did you cut a notch in a deep well socket to keep from having to remove the wire?

Hobie

 

[Rudy]

imported post

No, Hobie, I made mine adjustable with slots in the side of the socket and then 3/16" keystocks. I'm too cheap to waste a good socket.

 

[RayandTracy]

imported post

that is awesome Rudy:action:

 

[Rudy]

imported post

RayandTracy wrote:

that is awesome Rudy:action:

Thanks. It's a 32mm heavy wall impact socket. It works well up to about 35 ft/lbs. After that the keystock want to move a little.
I would have preferred to have milled a square channel the width of the 3/16" stock but I didn't have a mill handy so I just marked on the side of the socket where the slots were and used the old $15 4" x 1/4" wide grinder disk.

If it had been square, tight and accurate you could probably go way up.

Took about 15 minutes.

 

[FitzAl]

imported post

That will be the nut, you can disconnect the self cancelled wire by unscrewing the unit from below the steering lower yolk and pulling the unit down to disconnect the wire.

 

[Hobie1]

imported post

Thanks for the pic, Rudy. I'd actually forgotten the config of the actual nut and that I'd used an official(borrowed from a Honda mechanic friend, who's since moved away) socket when I repleaced my steering stem bearings a couple of years ago. I need to re-torque the nut I think because the bike has developed a slight wobble.

Thanks again, Rudy.

Hobie

 

[gido]

imported post

I found that my wobble disappeared when I got rid of the cat!

 

[goldwingnut]

imported post

Yes now that you mention it I did take the handlebars off. Thanks to all. I have the machines but I think I might try Rudys idea and weld the keystock on. I took the measurements last fall and still haven't made a tool to fit.:action: Fortunatly I DON'T OWN A CAT, so I think I can eliminate that problem.:dude::cheeky1:

 

[L8ndeb]

imported post

Rudy,



Vaguely (very vaguely) similar to what I have, but not near as pretty!

 

[Rudy]

imported post

goldwingnut wrote:

Yes now that you mention it I did take the handlebars off. Thanks to all. I have the machines but I think I might try Rudys idea and weld the keystock on. I took the measurements last fall and still haven't made a tool to fit.:action: Fortunatly I DON'T OWN A CAT, so I think I can eliminate that problem.:dude::cheeky1:

Welding it would solve any strength / torque problems for sure.
I think that would be easier than trying to remove material from a socket to make pins out of. And welded can let you get the stock out far enough to allow the wires to clear without taking the canceler out.

 

[Hobie1]

imported post

gido wrote:

I found that my wobble disappeared when I got rid of the cat!

:cheeky1::cheeky1::cheeky1::waving: