Steering
- Status
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Joined
·
6,183 Posts
imported post
I haven't done it personally on a GL1100 (yet) but I would imagine it would be easy enough to get to the back side of the race with a long punch, and knock it out. Access the bottom race through the top of the neck, and vice-versa.
Doesn't work as well with wheel bearings since there is a spacer that makes getting to the backside of the bearing nearly impossible.
I haven't done it personally on a GL1100 (yet) but I would imagine it would be easy enough to get to the back side of the race with a long punch, and knock it out. Access the bottom race through the top of the neck, and vice-versa.
Doesn't work as well with wheel bearings since there is a spacer that makes getting to the backside of the bearing nearly impossible.
Joined
·
6,183 Posts
imported post
You'd think there'd be some sort of lip on the inside edge. Small as it may be, enough to get something in there to hit.
You'd think there'd be some sort of lip on the inside edge. Small as it may be, enough to get something in there to hit.
Joined
·
6,183 Posts
imported post
Try parts n more, he's in Canada as well.
18th item down from the top.
https://www.partsnmore.com/cat_index.php?model=gl1000-1100&category=chassis
Try parts n more, he's in Canada as well.
18th item down from the top.
https://www.partsnmore.com/cat_index.php?model=gl1000-1100&category=chassis
Joined
·
5,502 Posts
imported post
How about a solid section of round stock iron , the correct size to fit up against the race (may have to turn it the right size on a metal lathe) cut about 3/8 thick for strength, hole centered on drill press in exact center, 3/8 all thread rod and some large washers and make a puller. Run a nut down on top of the washers and use that as a puller.
Kit
How about a solid section of round stock iron , the correct size to fit up against the race (may have to turn it the right size on a metal lathe) cut about 3/8 thick for strength, hole centered on drill press in exact center, 3/8 all thread rod and some large washers and make a puller. Run a nut down on top of the washers and use that as a puller.
Kit
Joined
·
8,189 Posts
imported post
This was in the " Goldwing Tips " section, 2nd 'tip' down and might work for your bike, although it's mentioned for the 1500
http://www.goldwingfacts.com/GoldwingTips.htm
![]()
Dusty
This was in the " Goldwing Tips " section, 2nd 'tip' down and might work for your bike, although it's mentioned for the 1500
http://www.goldwingfacts.com/GoldwingTips.htm
Dusty
Joined
·
36,382 Posts
imported post
If you're referring to the steering head bearings they can be worked out with a long punch, I've replaced those bearings on two 1100s. I used a brass drift to prevent doing any insult to the frame. Just tap on one edge and then the other and keep alternating. Some heat on the frame head will help by expanding it a bit which will loosen up the race. I freeze the new races in a freezer for a few hours before reinstalling them which makes them go in a bit easier. Just make sure you keep them square when removing or reinstalling them or they'll jam. The races are the easy part, getting the lower bearing on the steering stem is a pain. I don't know why Honda wanted them to fit so tight. The recommended removal process is to drive a couple of cold chisels or screw drivers on opposite sides between the inner race and the top of the stem which will pry the bearing up enough to prize it up with long, strong screwdrivers. Driving the new one on requires a piece of tubing that fits the stem and rests on the inner race of the lower bearing. It's a snug fit.
If you're referring to the steering head bearings they can be worked out with a long punch, I've replaced those bearings on two 1100s. I used a brass drift to prevent doing any insult to the frame. Just tap on one edge and then the other and keep alternating. Some heat on the frame head will help by expanding it a bit which will loosen up the race. I freeze the new races in a freezer for a few hours before reinstalling them which makes them go in a bit easier. Just make sure you keep them square when removing or reinstalling them or they'll jam. The races are the easy part, getting the lower bearing on the steering stem is a pain. I don't know why Honda wanted them to fit so tight. The recommended removal process is to drive a couple of cold chisels or screw drivers on opposite sides between the inner race and the top of the stem which will pry the bearing up enough to prize it up with long, strong screwdrivers. Driving the new one on requires a piece of tubing that fits the stem and rests on the inner race of the lower bearing. It's a snug fit.
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
- Status
Join the discussion
Join now to ask and comment!