Saw a recent car restoration program where they used plastic type disc in a drill to remove stickers without touching paint
Sticker removal
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WD40 works well
Rubbing Ouchahol works also
Rubbing Ouchahol works also
Heat gun or hair dryer.
So, OldManTim, welcome to the forum.
Where are you from and what do you ride?
Where are you from and what do you ride?
Those do work. My neighbor bought a new Silverado Z71 and removed the stickers in no time. Didn't hurt the paint. Prepsol removed whatever adhesive was left.Saw a recent car restoration program where they used plastic type disc in a drill to remove stickers without touching paint
Back in 1965, I special ordered a new '65 Plymouth Satellite, 383 330 hp, 4 speed, positrac.
gave them special instructions that NO dealer badges would be put on the car.....
they ignored that, the rent a detailer, punched holes in the trunk and stuck a metal badge thru the paint and ruined it all for me...
I was really pissed, as the instructions were written on my Order....
so, I was given a choice, have them repaint the trunk lid, or leave it alone.
I had already seen their shoddy paint work, I did not want to have 37 Rivers of dripping paint runs on the car,
so left the badge alone. but, I removed their name, and painted it in to match the car color.
gave them special instructions that NO dealer badges would be put on the car.....
they ignored that, the rent a detailer, punched holes in the trunk and stuck a metal badge thru the paint and ruined it all for me...
I was really pissed, as the instructions were written on my Order....
so, I was given a choice, have them repaint the trunk lid, or leave it alone.
I had already seen their shoddy paint work, I did not want to have 37 Rivers of dripping paint runs on the car,
so left the badge alone. but, I removed their name, and painted it in to match the car color.
I've used a product called "Goof-Off" with good success, works best on "gummy" type stuff left after the sticker is removed, might eat the stickum under the edges of those Govt stickers a little at a time.
Can damage certain paints, but my experience says OK for most automotive-type finishes, try in inconspicuous place first.
Can damage certain paints, but my experience says OK for most automotive-type finishes, try in inconspicuous place first.
I live in the Northwestern area of VirginiaSo, OldManTim, welcome to the forum.
Where are you from and what do you ride?
I ride to work everyday; that there is no snow or ice on the rode and the temps are above 30 degrees F.
It's a short commute of 1.5 miles each way. So, I switch between my 89 Pacific Coast and the 98 Shadow ACE.
The 78 GL1000 is waiting for me to sort out cylinder 3&4 problem and then tackle the carb issue.
But, it will be worked out.
Thank you you all.
We must be in the same little part of the universe.. I did the same thing with a 1973 Charger SE. Explicitly told them NO dealer logos on the trunk lid and made sure it was listed on the sales agreement in bold letters.Back in 1965, I special ordered a new '65 Plymouth Satellite, 383 330 hp, 4 speed, positrac.
gave them special instructions that NO dealer badges would be put on the car.....
they ignored that, the rent a detailer, punched holes in the trunk and stuck a metal badge thru the paint and ruined it all for me...
I was really pissed, as the instructions were written on my Order....
so, I was given a choice, have them repaint the trunk lid, or leave it alone.
I had already seen their shoddy paint work, I did not want to have 37 Rivers of dripping paint runs on the car,
so left the badge alone. but, I removed their name, and painted it in to match the car color.
When I went to pick up the car, the sales person asked what I thought. I told him it wasn't the car I had ordered because it had the chunk of chrome on the lid. After exchanging some words about not wanting the car since they did not follow the sales agreement, the sales manager apologized up and down and agreed to take $300 off the price.
I removed the emblem and put two small chrome buttons on to cover the holes.
I would use a hair dryer to warm the stickers enough that they would pull off without tearing, then use Goo Gone to remove the residue.
Goof Off is made to remove dried latex paint, adhesive and tar. Another good product is Goo Gone. It's a citrus based cleanerI've used a product called "Goof-Off" with good success, works best on "gummy" type stuff left after the sticker is removed, might eat the stickum under the edges of those Govt stickers a little at a time.
Can damage certain paints, but my experience says OK for most automotive-type finishes, try in inconspicuous place first.
I would use a hair dryer to warm the stickers enough that they would pull off without tearing, then use Goo Gone to remove the residue.
save yourself alot of time and strss. just replace the panel.
Considering that center cowl is $200, a few $ for supplies and about an hours work with a hair dryer and an some adhesive remover makes more sense. Plus it's winter where the OP lives. He has the time.
I have had success using WD-40 to remove stickers and adhesive and then follow up with rubbing alcohol to remove the WD-14 residue.
If the stickers have a plastic film coating, the only way is to use a hair dryer or heat gun. Solvents will not penetrate the film. If you try a heat gun, use a very low setting and keep it moving. That piece of ABS will melt easily. Hair dryer is a better choice. Then you can remove the adhesive.
I used a hair dryer and a pampered chef scraper to get the stickers off. Goo Gone and a scotchbrite pad to get the adhesive off.
Thanks for the help! Virginia was good to me. NC made me work for every sliver.
Thanks for the help! Virginia was good to me. NC made me work for every sliver.
Plastic razor blades. I'm definitely checking that out!
The beauty of the pampered chef scraper is that it has varying radius rounded corners, perfect for the concave area where the NC sticker was placed.
Works real good on my Iron skillets, too.
The beauty of the pampered chef scraper is that it has varying radius rounded corners, perfect for the concave area where the NC sticker was placed.
Works real good on my Iron skillets, too.
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