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Ok, so I'm still having issues with my wing... I filled the tank all the way to the top, and started her up. (The problem used to only show its self below half-tank.) Well now the problem is there on a full tank. Watch the movie, and you can see exactly how she reacts. I can't do a whole lot of work on her where I live (apartment) but tomorrow I'm gonna pick up a new filter, and see if that helps. I'll also do a flow-check on the pump tomorrow. Anyhow, any other ideas guys?



Click here to watch Sick-wing

(It'sa small video, less than 1 meg so dialup guys should be able to watch it to. Turn up the speakers to hear the engine.)
 

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Now here's a thought...

You can see in the movie that the tach drops to 0 as the engine is still running. Could that mean that one of the coils is not working right? If so, how would I test that?
 

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I watched the video and your problem seems ignition-related. You might need to advance the timing a bit and maybe check out the rest of the ignition system. It may be something as simple as defective plug caps... don't know if yours has the resistors built into the plug caps, but those resistors can go bad. Using resistor-type plugs in conjunction with questionable plug caps can really cause problems. As far as the coils, any good manual will show you how to check the coils with an ohm-meter.

Could also need a carb balance.
 

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Isn't the 1200 ignition system fixed?
 

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sorry philicsand but I can't seem to see your video.

The list of symptoms I had when my coils failed (right failed quickly followed by left)

Engine miss fired as if a plug was shorting this got worse in rain, then on hills the bike would slow no matter how far open the throttle was, but when shutting the throttle the engine picked up slightly and the bike surged forward. (this was because the fuel pump wasn't coming on stroke during the miss fire as the right coil was failing)

This pointed towards a fueling problem as advised by some of the guys on the forum.

after about a week of investigating/cleaning and finding answers to problems that didn't exist.

The tacho flicked from engine revs to zero and back constantly. This definatley pointed towards the left coil.

even though the resistance of the coils was within specI changed them both for new a now my bike runs sweet as a nut.
 

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where did you get the new coils?
 

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Bought them from David Silver spares at:-www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/

I just had a look at your other post about fuel pump( I know I replied but I'm getting old) This is the same sort of things I was looking at to begin with and as you get more in depth you get further away from the problem.

If you now someone with a running 1200, ask him if you could "borrow" the coils just to see if it cures your problem before you go to the expense of getting new

lets hope this is the fault, good luck
 

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Philcsand.. I could hear a missfire in the video and my first reaction was trouible in the ignition system... Axlewik and johno have the right process to test the ignition system out so it's a good place to start.

May I suggest a compression test? The missfiring also sounds like a popping thru either the exhaust system or the intake manifold. I am suspecting a bad or sticking valve. Especially if it is on one cylinder. The first things to eliminate are engine mechanical condition, then fuel system and then electrical system. If all three are to specification, the engine will perform. A burned or poorly seating valve will give you the same intermittent missfires I am hearing on the video even though you can rev the engine smoothly. It doesn't take much time to check out the engine condition, and it may save you hours, even days of chasing fuel & electrical problems.

FYI, I have found the bayonet connectors (slide - on) at the ingnition coils for the 1200's loose. If they are, just pinch the female terminals closed a little for a tight connection. Loose terminals on the coils will give poor contact and coil failure on the pilse.
 

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Since it sounds like your bike stays outside, you might want to check for water in the area of the spark plugs. If the cylinder head drain hole is plugged this area could fill with water and short the spark out. Use a piece of wire or a large paper clip to clean out the drain holes if you find water near the spark plugs after you remove the spark plug caps.

Vic
 

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She may live outside, but I always cover her! I'll snag a compression tester ASAP and give that a whirl. Which model works best with our wings" I would expect the position of the plugs would be a bit of a bother with normal guages...
 

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Assuming it's the coils, how am I sure that it's the coils and not the computer, or the pickup coils instead?
 

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Philcsand, The sound and erractic running can be caused by numerous things. Like has been said it is easy to get side tracked on these issues.

When did the problem start, was it a gradual process, did you change/add anything. You indicated that it did it at "half" tank. Does this mean, originally it was okay on a full tank and only when it got to half tankthe problem started.

You now say it does it on a full tank, does this mean it got worse over time or just the next day.

The reason I'm asking is to try to understand the problem and when it started. :shock:

Three things are required to make it run - fuel and the means to get it to the engine (carburetors, injectors, pump etc), the electrics (coils, wiring, plugs) andthe mechanical side of things(valves, timing)

Before doing anything, do a compression test - this will prove the mechanical side of things. Next check the mechanical timing to check whether its firing at the right time. While plugs are out, look to see if rh side is same colour as lh side. This could give an indication of the problem

If that was okay, could you take the tank out or drain it and check for water, dirt etc blocking the fuel (check filter, pump etc)Could also check for air leaks at the carb's (gasket leaking). Check fuel hoses for deteriation (swollen hoses can block fuel).

Next would be the electrical side of things - already mentioned the plug leads and coils. Swapping is a simple method to eliminate problems

Good luck and keep us informed of the outcome :waving:
 

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It happened right after I tried splitfire plugs in the bike. (Search for THAT thread...) anyhow, I switched back to NGK, and it's still a problem. I am thinking that there is a problem with the ignition because of that.
 

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Well, I found some coils on ebay for $30 shipped, so I'll try them out. (Good to have spares anyhow, right?



If that doens't fix the problem, I'll move onto thought 2.
 

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What happened when you put the spitfire plugs in. If it started to misfire at that point You may havebroken one of the plug leads or got them crossed up ;)
 

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I have the same condition with my 1100. It only seems to missfire or pop when throttle is just off idle. I have tried several things to resolve it with no luck. I am wondering about the timing advance if it was not operating could this be the cause? I'm suspecting the advance would be coming in about that rpm.:baffled:
 

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Wow, a blast from the past!Anyhow, replacing the coil solved the problem. As it turns out, one of them had about a 2 inch split in the housing. That allowed moisture into the coil, and it turned intermittent. I got a spare pair off eBay for about $20. Replaced the bad one, and I keep the spare in my trunk.Haven't had a problem since.
 

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Excellant, at least you were heading in the right direction.
 
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