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Hi All
I am in the process of resurecting a supposedly siezed (another story) GL1100 and when I took the engine out the long bolt that fixes the front of the engine to the frame is siezed solid in its tube housing (the tube runs right across the base of the engine at the front)
So I tipped the whole engine on its side and clamped on a rubber tube and filled it with release oil but after 2 days the level has not gone down :? so its well stuck

My thoughts are the only options are

1 leave it alone and struggle to reinstall

2 start applying heat to the casing in the hope of it 'cracking' loose

Anybody had to do this and did it cause any problems?

any more ideas on how it could be freed?

Thanks Rob
 

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Try and relocate where your jacking point is (might be in a bind:baffled:)

Can you use something to tap it on out?

Good Luck, Ray

:waving:
 

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heres one to try---double nut on one side and try turning it to get it broke loose .
 

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I have got the engine out and its on the bench so the 'jacking point' reply hasn't helped but nice lateral thinking

tried the double nuts socket method and a nut on each end covered by an old socket and alternate tapping with a hammer but to no avail

keep the ideas coming

has anybody had to heat the engine casing and did it cause any damage?
 

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Do you own an air compressor? Kit
 

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Had the same on a couple of engines, pull it out, the double nut plus tube spacers as you go, it will come eventually...resist the temption to tap it out & a litte heat wont hurt, but don't go mad like me once and cut the bolt to split the cases, that how I learn't, the hard way!
 

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on the spacer method---try a hand full of washers .
 

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Make your rubber tube a bicycle inner tube. Clamp the one end on the engine/bolt dry, fill with your lube {I like a 50/50 mix of acetone and Marvel Mystery Oil, clamp off the other end securely, and add a little air pressure to the inner tube using the schrader valve.
 

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DeltaBlues wrote:
Had the same on a couple of engines, pull it out, the double nut plus tube spacers as you go, it will come eventually...resist the temption to tap it out & a litte heat wont hurt, but don't go mad like me once and cut the bolt to split the cases, that how I learn't, the hard way!
Thats the way I would do it. You can apply heat gently with the pressure on the double nuts and then apply a cold cloth to the heated areas. Keep the pressure on as it will loosen up. Take your time.:waving:
 

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Heat is good as long as you don't set the rest of it on fire. I guess you could use wet rags as heat sink/deterent.

Find another rod as a drift pin to force the first through the hole. Sometimes I use a hefty phillips screwdriver to pound with a hammer.
 

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Ok this is one i have come across before but not on this engine and this is how i got it out if the casting is a full length one try and using a good sharp chisel make a grove along the full length of the casting (hit it with the hammer)so as to spread the tube slightly then apply some heat to it and turn the bolt/nut if the casing is in two parts with some of the bolt showing cut what you can see out using a angle grinder then use the same method as for the long tube this does work use copper grease on the bolt when it goes back in its never failed me
 

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Heat, vibration, lubrication are the three things you want to try. Any way you can safely apply any/all of these elements should be helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
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:cool: :cool::cool::cool:
After 3 more hours work today


ITS OUT
BUT its b*g***d (threads on both ends stripped) time to pay a visit to the engineers.
 
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