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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 96 1500 SE that is solid performer. I recently took a 1000 mile trip and have been experiencing electrical problems. I am trying to determine if as battery has a open or the alternator is the problem.

The last stop on my trip while fueling the bike cut off. No display, no electrical response from any of the controls. I opened the battery compartment and tighten the connections on the battery which were not lose and the bike comes back to life. I ride another 75 miles and again the bike dies. Again I open the battery compartment and tap the battery and bike comes back to life. I am able to start and ride off.

A week later and I am out riding in the mountains and bike dies. We go through the same routine of tapping the battery and back to life she comes. I notice as the rpms fall below 1500 is when the bike dies. Battery is new and easily starts the bike when power is restored. Wiring appears to be normal and no visible signs of a short to the frame. Suggestions??? I have considered the battery is open and the tapping restores the circuit. When the throttle is above 1500 rpm the alternator is providing enough "power" to operate the bike. I have run the normal checks. Voltage and alternator charging input voltage.
 

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Gregarious Greeter
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Welcome:waving:Bubby
Sounds like a loose ground wire somewhere on the frame.
 

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It aint rocket science
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Just a simple little finger tap unless tapping with a sledge hammer on the battery is not likely causing your engine electrics to come back on. Some folks remove their battery connections while running thinking it is some sort of valid test for the charging system. The engine will continue to run without the battery in place.

My guess your tap is a rap moving something else further down the line like the dog bone fuse to the right of the battery which would kill electrics causing stall and no power to electrics. Look further down the line of positive cable. Or the tap is hard enough to jiggle a relay on the other side of bike.
 

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Moved to Technical Forum for greater response...
 

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Have you checked the main dog bone fuse to make sure it's tight and also not cracked or otherwise stressed???

Les
 

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...The last stop on my trip while fueling the bike cut off. No display, no electrical response from any of the controls. I opened the battery compartment and tighten the connections on the battery which were not lose and the bike comes back to life. I ride another 75 miles and again the bike dies. Again I open the battery compartment and tap the battery and bike comes back to life. I am able to start and ride off... I notice as the rpms fall below 1500 is when the bike dies..
Check the starter relay that sits just in front of the battery... if that goes bad, then pretty much the entire bike is "dead"... and if you tap it (or jump it) then that may explain why the problem goes away temporarily.

That relay wears out; someone on here recently found a Cracked Case to the 30amp fuse on the front of that relay causing same symptom; Check the 30amp fuse too... it may be bad or loose.
 

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Check the starter relay that sits just in front of the battery... if that goes bad, then pretty much the entire bike is "dead"... and if you tap it (or jump it) then that may explain why the problem goes away temporarily.

That relay wears out; someone on here recently found a Cracked Case to the 30amp fuse on the front of that relay causing same symptom; Check the 30amp fuse too... it may be bad or loose.
I second this. The terminals on it corrode also. If the 2 power wires lose connection, the switch loses also. If terminals are too dirty to clean, replace them.
 

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When my alternator took a dump, it also ruined my AGM battery. The system would show 12vdc, and the next second 9vdc, and would jump to 14.7. The winding"s crimp connectors were the culprit. When I would take a few minutes looking around, the battery would then fire the trike, then it could run an hour, or die in a few minutes. I'd give that alternator a good look. jimsjinx
 

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Wild Rhino - Canadian
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Welcome to the best place on the planet for getting advice and help for your GW.
I would look at the dogbone fuse real close.
Or better yet go get a PAL fuse at the auto parts store and replace it.
Make sure you come back and let us all know what happens.. That way we all learn and can pass it on to the next guy.
 

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I have to go with a cracked dog bone fuse also. Take it out of the relayand check it. It may fall apart in your hand. If you just look at it it may not look like it is cracked.

Kurt
 

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When my alternator took a dump, it also ruined my AGM battery. The system would show 12vdc, and the next second 9vdc, and would jump to 14.7. The winding"s crimp connectors were the culprit. When I would take a few minutes looking around, the battery would then fire the trike, then it could run an hour, or die in a few minutes. I'd give that alternator a good look. jimsjinx

+1 :waving:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Could the silicon rectifier the sits behind the battery and atop the exhaust system be the culprit? Appears when the bike is hot the problem is worse. Also when riding if you use turn signals or brakes the lights go dim like we are getting only voltage out of the battery. I checked the dog bone fuse, 30 amp fuse that sits beside the starter relay. All connections are tight and free of corrosion. Battery voltage is 13.10 volts.
 

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Administrator
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There isn't any silicone rectifier behind the battery on top of the exhaust. If you mean the big box with a heat sink on it, it is the reverse resistor.
 
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