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Being new to Wings I have not yet got into the maintenance but will. I need a set of long T-bar allen keys. I'm going to get them on the net (can't find any in our small town shops) and not sure whether to order metric or imperial. Or is there a preferred set for Wings?
 

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Other side of the pond
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Metric, everything is Metric on your Goldwing.
 

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Cheers. I thought so but wanted to make sure.
 

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silvertramp wrote:
This is the type I use. You can put a box wrench on the short end and use it as a torque multiplier. http://www.harborfreight.com/13-piece-metric-ball-end-hex-key-set-96416.html
I have all three sets & they all have thier pros & cons. For me it is a question of Torque, Location & convienience. Besides allen end sockets, I also have a full set of all the other types of drivers in socket form. Both in metric & sae. I may be breaking the rules of this park to do any work on my vehicles, I still have a complete set of tools. Both mechanic & woodworking. The only things I do not have are pnuematic as the cost is too much and besides I really don't have the room for a decent compressor. Tools have always been my passion.:D
 

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I use 2 sets of loose metric and imperial allen keys with a drilled out roll bar or drill stock to hold the keys in awkward positions to loosen and tighten. The handle I made is now close to 50 years old, but continues helping me to work in close tolerance locations at all awkward angles.
 

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Some good pointers there. I'm ordering the socket set type and the long ball end type as they are so cheap. Thanks chaps, at least I'll be able to get the seat off more easily then - takes a while when you can't spin a short allen key with the passenger footboard lever in the way!
 

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John J wrote:
Some good pointers there. I'm ordering the socket set type and the long ball end type as they are so cheap. Thanks chaps, at least I'll be able to get the seat off more easily then - takes a while when you can't spin a short allen key with the passenger footboard lever in the way!
Just a personal observation, but be careful of the ball-type allen's as they can very easily round out a a bolt. I've used both, and much prefer a standard configuration for that reason. Maybe it's just me, but was not happy with that type.
 

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Retired Guy wrote:
John J wrote:
Some good pointers there. I'm ordering the socket set type and the long ball end type as they are so cheap. Thanks chaps, at least I'll be able to get the seat off more easily then - takes a while when you can't spin a short allen key with the passenger footboard lever in the way!
Just a personal observation, but be careful of the ball-type allen's as they can very easily round out a a bolt. I've used both, and much prefer a standard configuration for that reason. Maybe it's just me, but was not happy with that type.
Ball Allens work great for taking bolts out and installing them, however they are terrible at busting loose a bolt or applying torque to one. You will bust the head off of them easily if you try to use them in any heavy torque application.

That is why I have multiple sets of Allens. Both a T set and driver set of ball heads, a T set and driver set of straight heads, and a angle set that I have cut the short end even shorter to get into tight places. You don't really need all of these but you will find that over the years of working on your bikes they will come in handy.

The Harbor Freight ones work and work well, but they can be brittle and may break on you if you are not careful. Over the last 40 years I've slowly built up the multiple sets of good allens. If you need them in a hurry and are not concerned with keeping them for many years then yes go get the Harbor Freight ones, they will do the job and you are not out much.
 

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I like the 3/8's drive allens and use one of these http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_10...t+Accecssories&prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=L2 with the extension length of my choice to make a T handle. Craftsman also makes a 1/4 inch drive version that works great with you 1/4 drive sockets and extensions. The T handles seem to be some much faster than a ratchet. You can also add a wobble adapter to get into tight places.
 

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I agree with Zach, be careful with the rounded in, they will woller out the end of a screw real quick. They are nice when you have a tight spot and your on a bit of an angle on a lose screw, but only lose screws.
 

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Actually, I have ball end, straight end, and allen sockets in both SAE & metric. I'm pretty much good to go.
 

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Everything is metric on the wing BUT.... be sure to accomodate any accessories you might add. For instance, the Kuryakyn Ergo2 pegs so popular on the wing use S.A.E. sized fasteners. You'll also want a thin walled deep well socket sized for your spark plugs, and an appropriately sized metric socket for the rear lug nuts.
 

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Just make sure you get the most important tool....a metric crescent wrench!

;)
 

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Yep the craftsman mentioned above are fine tools
 

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Xtracho wrote:
Just make sure you get the most important tool....a metric crescent wrench!

;)
Yep got a number of those in all sizes. Bought them over the internet from a supplier in Poland but they were made in China..Go figure.
 

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ceasefire49 wrote:
Xtracho wrote:
Just make sure you get the most important tool....a metric crescent wrench!

;)
Yep got a number of those in all sizes. Bought them over the internet from a supplier in Poland but they were made in China..Go figure.
Did either of you get them in both left handed and right handed models?

Forturning the bolt in theeither direction. :ROFL::D :ROFL:
 

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I ain't a bonde fer nutin. I have Just rushed out to grt one of each.:D:D:ROFL::ROFL::ROFL::ROFL::ROFL::ROFL:
 

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I've noticed something about cresent wrench's. They are exactly one size to small for the large bolt i go get the wrench for?
Wilf
 
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