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On the way home from work, Thursday night, I pulled in to a gas station to fuel up and get a lottery ticket. When I tried to restart, she had no electrical power to the dash or lights. I pushed her into the parking lot as there was a line up behind me of people waiting. I figured that I had blown a fuse somewhere and checked the fuse holder under the false tank. It was very dark and I couldn't see at all in there so I went inside to borrow a flash light. All the fuses looked good so I tried wiggling the ignition switch but that didn't help. So I called CAA and had them haul the bike and I about 10 km to home.

Later that night I logged on to this forum and searched for help with electrical failures. After reading about the main fuse and it's location, I was pretty sure I had found my problem. I took the advise of changing the dog bone fuse to an automotive blade type and weather sealed holder and off to Canadian Tire to get the parts I needed.

When I removed the dog bone fuse, it literally disintegrated into tiny pieces.Exchanging it for the new fuse holder was a simple repair/replacement which solved the failure. I did have to trim the plastic cover for the wires to exit underneath.

Thank you to all who take the time to post their findings and tips here!!

On the road again,
JamesGang
 

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Congratulations, it's good to hear a success story. I'll bet that was a cold ride considering where you live.
 

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jrward wrote:
Was there a certain type of replacement or any old 30 amp fuse holder?
The best fuse holder for that repair is one of the square type that fits the new flat plug in fuse and has a little weather cover over it. Those are the best to use on the bikes and seem to solve the problem and give no trouble. The one that is inline and has a little spring in it to hold tension on a cylinder type fuse is not so good, the spring rusts or something and down the road gives you trouble.

Kit
 

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The only thing to be wary of when using an inline blade fuse holder to replace the fusible link on a 'Wing is to be sure the holder is rated for 30A. Some are not and I've seen one that melted because the contacts in the holder couldn't handle the current. If it's a 30A holder there'll be no heating problem.
 

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JamesGang wrote:
When I removed the dog bone fuse, it literally disintegrated into tiny pieces.
Was the spare main fuse still in the lid of the main fuse box? Sometimes they get so dust covered that they can't be seen.
 

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That's what got me going on this in the first place. When I learned where and what the main fuse was comprised of, I thought I was on one of those DIY shows fixing up an old house. Didn't know of a spare or see one, except on my parts bike against the wall. Anyway, I've got the proper fuseholder to handle the current. Nothing like the smell of melting plastic to get your attention. Yall take it easy and I'll take it if it's FREE!
 

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THe older VT Honda SHadow had a similar dogbone fuse. I remember hitting 5-6 auto stores and couldnt find one till I had to go to Honda. I bought 3 extras for that bike and kept in the toolkit.

I think while its cold as heck and the GL doesnt go to work with meeach night, its a good time to do this conversion. Only makes sense since theres so many wires for accessories in the Wing. JR
 

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When I went to Canadian Tire to get the fuse older and spare fuses, I found that they had holders with two different gauges of wire ( 16g and 12g). Of course I choose the 12g to handle the 30 amp current. It has worked out great with no further problems. Thank you for all the responses and Merry Christmas to all!
 
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