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82 GL 1100,

symptoms: 1st noticed in summer, 08

Fan runs when hot, seems to drain battery, as starter button get only a klick.

After 6 12 mins sitting fan stops.

Few mins later, press starter button, as starter labors from drained batt. manages to start engine.

symptoms now: Fall 08

Extreemly faint click when starter button is pressed.

With new & charged battery: lights slightly dim as starter button is pressed.

Will start if push-started down thestreet, and seems to run ok.

Noticed oil leak from the small hole on bottom cover between starter and engine.

What are remedies?

Could it be that the clutch is mal-adjusted and will not allow the started to engage? If so how do I adjust this. ( have an owners workshop manual) In the manual there is a terrible black and white photo of the clutch cover access cap. The photo is an extreemly close up and I don't know where in the motorcylce it is showing. It doesn't indicate left side, right side, front, rear, or anything. Nothing else in the photo indicates just where this access cap for the adjuster arm is.

should I try a clutch adjuster armadjustment, (if and when I find the adjustment arm) ?Also which directionof thescrew takesout slack. (if I need to take out slack)
 

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More than likely you just have the typical starter-itis the 1100 is known for. I'm in process of getting mine replaced. Don't beat yourself up trying to adjust anything.
 

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OK, I'll get the starter replaced.

Now! why does it take so long for my GL 1100 to seem like it is charging the battery. I can't turn on anything (like a radio) it drains the battery. I wish I could turn off the headlights and run them at night only. Is this possible?

How do I get the generator/alternator to charge properly? Is this an inherient problem with 82 Gl 1100's ?
 

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how much free play is in your clutch lever? I dont think your clutch has anything to do with your problem.

You are more likely suffering from one or more of the following:

Bad connections from your battery, through your starter relay & down to your starter.

You might have a weak starter. I suspect that your brushes inside your starter are worn down & as a result, you dont get enough of your batteries available power to turn the engine over.

Your new battery could be defective. When your bike is cranking over, you should have a minimum of 10 volts continuous coming from your battery. Your battery resting voltage should be high 13 volt range, not 12.

So, start with very clean connections, A fully charged battery. It should crank great if your starter is healthy. If your clutches were out of adjustment, your bike might want to roll forward while cranking if it was in gear, But in neutral your clutch adjustment would not be part of the problem.

Welcome to the forum fresnolarry, Ask lots of questions if you have them!
 

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Charging issues: take off the battery cover on the left side of your bike. To the left of the battery you will find a white plug with 3 yellow wires running through it. Pop that plug open & look inside. If it looks burnt, Cut it right off & re join the 3 yellow wires back up. Their order is not important. Just 3 from the bottom to 3 at the top, Each wire insulated from the others with shrink tube would be ideal!
 

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to add to the charging system of that goldwing, They will keep your battery charged but they dont like a big load. If your battery was dead & you got the bike running, you would have to ride several hours to bring the battery back up!
 

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Thanks Bowser

I found a photo of the starter being opened, and how the brushes are assembled in a exploded diagram.

I see that Stockers.com has the brushes for about $16 or so. Apparently I have to remove the exhaust pipes, and shifter lever, in order to get the started motor out. I just hope that when I remove the end cover that inside parts don't spring out and about. I like to see how they are arranged, snap a quick digital photo and then start taking it apart to replace (which I suspect is needed) the brushes. I hope the armature etc is not scarred or burned.

Have you replace bushings before? do I throw away the worn ones or do they fit between the new brushes and the turning commutator. Or are the new brushes already shaped to set on the commutator?

I recall I have done this on a car generator, (long ago) and the brushes (unless I have lost my memory) had to be shaped somewhat. Am I correct in this recollection. I hope they are ready to plug and play.

Thanks again
 

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No, no... The exhaust pipes do not need to be removed, and more than likely neither does the lever. Most people that try it first, find that just using a 1/4" drive ratchet, an extension and a wobbly adapter, you can get out the starter without removing all that other stuff.

With 75K miles on your old starter it may need more than just brushes. There are guys on ebay and such, that sell a kit with bearings, bushings and stuff that does wear out over time.
 

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sounds like the fanmiay be running too long. you might have one of those goofy switches. the light is supposed to kick off or dim. when starting. JB
 

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I have had this same problem, which was remedied by:
  • Cutting out the molex connector with the three wires (just to the left of the battery). These are the wires that run from the alternator to the rectifier IIRC. Once I did this, I have not experienced another problem with my battery. Then again, I don't have a radio that works or extra lights drawing amps.
  • I replaced the starter (PO gave me a spare with the purchase of the bike). It wasn't necessary to drop the exhaust or remove the shifter. Like an above poster said, an attachment for your socket wrench is all you need (universal joint). The bike has been starting on the first try ever since the repair.
 

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Two easy things to check before you do anything..The headlight should go off completely when you push the starter button..check that if it doesn't pull the headlight fuse and see if that helps..with starting..if that works you'll need to fix your starter switch.

Also you should check your stator output..it's nice to have a volt meter permanently on your biek but if you don't want to get one and install it..use a meter connected to your battery and check the voltage output while keeping it reved up a bit..3,000 rpm you should get aroudn 13v's; charging riding at 3500+ it should be around 14v's. This is just a quick test.there are more definitive and reliable tests for each leg of the stator. This is not so much for starting but keeping your battery fully charged..which if not will effect starting.

As said before clean all the connections between the starter and the bike..relay switch, battery, and starter connections. A quick test of your starter is to jump it from a know good battery(car) source, positive to the post negative to the engine/frame.

Also if you remove the starter do it with the bike on the side stand and be careful not to spin the starter post..you with break the connection inside!!
 

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I wouldn't buy a starter on e-bay. If you have to get one, buy it from stocker starters. They will stand behind their product. The e-bay folks will laugh at you!!. Does your bike start easier when you put it in neutral rather than in gear and the clutch pulled in? Don't forget to check the ground wire where it bolts to the bike. Alot of folks tend to forget about that one.All connections need to clean and tight.
Later Rumple
 
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