synching carbs on 1200 goldwing
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First, welcome to the forum,
What kind of sync tool will you be using?
First, welcome to the forum,
What kind of sync tool will you be using?
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If you have vacuum gauges, just get them all in sync at the same point. Trying to force them to a chosen point causes the engine to run bad, in my experience.
This tutorial page may help you: http://www.goldwingfacts.com/1200balancecarbs.htm
and if this works, you should see a video clip just below this.....
If you have vacuum gauges, just get them all in sync at the same point. Trying to force them to a chosen point causes the engine to run bad, in my experience.
This tutorial page may help you: http://www.goldwingfacts.com/1200balancecarbs.htm
and if this works, you should see a video clip just below this.....
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Just did mine and a couple oh others with the forum Loaner gauges they are the dial type depicted in the video.:waving:. Worked fine. Get on the loaner list I just shipped them to NC to another member.
Just did mine and a couple oh others with the forum Loaner gauges they are the dial type depicted in the video.:waving:. Worked fine. Get on the loaner list I just shipped them to NC to another member.
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I agree don't shoot for a cartain value. On my 84 GL1200 the readingdifference should be 40mm or less at idle speed of 1,000 +/- 100 rpm. The number 4 carburetor is the base and cannot be adjusted. You will need to rev up the engine several times and recheck the synchronization and idle speed. I use the pro-motion with mercury. Welcome to the forum!
I agree don't shoot for a cartain value. On my 84 GL1200 the readingdifference should be 40mm or less at idle speed of 1,000 +/- 100 rpm. The number 4 carburetor is the base and cannot be adjusted. You will need to rev up the engine several times and recheck the synchronization and idle speed. I use the pro-motion with mercury. Welcome to the forum!
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Welcome to the Forum. I recently rebuilt/cleaned my carbs and the sync. made all the difference in how the bike ran. I made my own gauges, but was lucky enough to borrow a set of Morgans. As all have said, it's setting all the carbs the same thats the big thing !
Jim
Welcome to the Forum. I recently rebuilt/cleaned my carbs and the sync. made all the difference in how the bike ran. I made my own gauges, but was lucky enough to borrow a set of Morgans. As all have said, it's setting all the carbs the same thats the big thing !
Jim
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I checked the throttle body synchronization on my '85 LTD. It did not need an adjustment. The engine vacuum is what it is, and cannot be changed. The idea is to get the right side and left side as close to the same as possible. On the LTD (fuel injected) all you can do is synchronize the right side to the left. There is NO adjustment possible between the front and rear, as they use the same throttle shaft. If you synchronize the right and left rear, and get them both the same, then check the right and left front, and find they are off, then there is either an issue with the front cylinders themselves, or something in the throttle linkage is bent. If you then try to synchronize the front, and make any adjustments, the rear will be off.
I keep hearing how there is one carb that cannot be changed, and you have to synchronize the other 3 to that one. I have no clue what that means. Is the carb setup completely different from the FI setup? With the FI, you CANNOT synchronize the front and rear carbs relative to each other. I have one of the old Motion Pro mercury synchronizers, the really tall one that must be kept upright so the mercury doesn't run out, and it worked fine. I didn't even check the front 2 throttle bodies, I checked the right rear and left rear. It wouldn't do any good to check the front anyway, as there is nothing you can do about it if they are off, without messing up the rear. The engine runs fine, so I see no reason to worry about it. I guess I'm going to have to take a closer look at how the carb setup is designed.
I checked the throttle body synchronization on my '85 LTD. It did not need an adjustment. The engine vacuum is what it is, and cannot be changed. The idea is to get the right side and left side as close to the same as possible. On the LTD (fuel injected) all you can do is synchronize the right side to the left. There is NO adjustment possible between the front and rear, as they use the same throttle shaft. If you synchronize the right and left rear, and get them both the same, then check the right and left front, and find they are off, then there is either an issue with the front cylinders themselves, or something in the throttle linkage is bent. If you then try to synchronize the front, and make any adjustments, the rear will be off.
I keep hearing how there is one carb that cannot be changed, and you have to synchronize the other 3 to that one. I have no clue what that means. Is the carb setup completely different from the FI setup? With the FI, you CANNOT synchronize the front and rear carbs relative to each other. I have one of the old Motion Pro mercury synchronizers, the really tall one that must be kept upright so the mercury doesn't run out, and it worked fine. I didn't even check the front 2 throttle bodies, I checked the right rear and left rear. It wouldn't do any good to check the front anyway, as there is nothing you can do about it if they are off, without messing up the rear. The engine runs fine, so I see no reason to worry about it. I guess I'm going to have to take a closer look at how the carb setup is designed.
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butch5176 wrote:
:cheesygrin:
butch5176 wrote:
Butch5176 first off welcome to the forum!!!. As the other guys stated don't be so concerned about a number, as much as your looking for all of the neddles or slides depending on which gauges you use to be the same. On the 1100 the # 3 carb is fixed meaning it does not have an adjustment screw for the # 3 carb. Adjustment for the 1100 is different then the 1200, with that said the only difference is the #3 and the #4 carbs. On the 1200 the # 4 carb is fixed and non-adjustable. It's pretty straight forward!!, You are going to adjust the #2 to the #4 carb. then your going to adjust the #1 to the #3 carb. Then your going to balance the left side with the right side!!. On one side of the3 carbs your going to see 2 adjustment screws and on the other side your only going to see 1. Look over the adjustment screws for both sides, on 1 screw your going to see a long rod connecting both sets of carbs. That is the adjustment screw that balances the left form the right side. The other 2 adjustment screws are for synchronization of the carbs. I hope I didn't confuse you with all of this!!. Good luck and don'tbe afraid to ask for help.............................Allan AKA flyboyziel56
:cheesygrin:
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