Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner
Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have used AMSOIL motorcycle specific full synthetic in my 2009 Wing for some time....10W-30. I just bought a 2012 Wing and wish to eventually change it to synthetic and the dealer told me I should wait for 6000-8000KM to allow the valves to seat before doing so.

Can someone advise if that recommendation is the way to go?

Thanks for your help.

Ken
 

·
Oh - THAT guy...
Joined
·
3,275 Posts
All I can say is some cars come from the factory with synthetic in them already. Not sure if they do any special 'prep' prior.
But frankly, waiting for the first or second oil change to convert to synthetic will VERY doubtfully cause any issues, and the factory can not say you went against their recommendation should an issue arise.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,304 Posts
A lot of mechanics I know say to wait until the engine is run in before changing to synthetic. 6000km is about 3500 miles and seems like a good time to change.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
49 Posts
My dealer changed my bike over to full synthetic at the first oil change. :) Tom :july4thflag:
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
1,819 Posts
This engine is in wery low tune and dosnt need that expensive oil .
If you want, use synthetic fortified which is cheaper and easyli last for 12000 miles .
I use Valvoline Durablend motorcykle oil , 10W-40 , which also gives you a very nice gear shift .
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,361 Posts
Just as an FYI:

I researched the subject of Syn vs. Non Syn last year and one of the things I found on either Mobil's or Chevron's website is that the changing back and forth of the two oils....Non to Syn, or Syn to Non...is perfectly acceptable and will have absolutely no ill effects either way. I'd heard before that going back from Syn to Non was a no-no and it was interesting to see what the REAL experts had to say about that.

The former owner switched my '98SE over to Syn just before I bought it and I doubt that I'll continue the practice. Honda designed these engines to run almost indefinitely on premium regular oil so I'm skeptical of the value of paying 3x as much as necessary for oil. But that's just me. I think anyone who wants to us Syn should definitly do it. Who knows, maybe a GL engine will last 400k miles on Syn instead of a measly 250k on regular oil !!
 

·
Oh - THAT guy...
Joined
·
3,275 Posts
Just as an FYI:

I researched the subject of Syn vs. Non Syn last year and one of the things I found on either Mobil's or Chevron's website is that the changing back and forth of the two oils....Non to Syn, or Syn to Non...is perfectly acceptable and will have absolutely no ill effects either way. I'd heard before that going back from Syn to Non was a no-no and it was interesting to see what the REAL experts had to say about that.
There is no brain in the oil pan, so switching is not an issue as you say. Back when I had my Mustang I ran the oil I could afford - from generic 10w-30 dino to synthetic 15/50. The motor never complained over its 225,000 mile life (and it still ran great- pulled it for a build up).
 

·
Postpubescent member
Joined
·
36,382 Posts
I've used DELO 400 in my vehicles for years because I used to have to buy oil in 15 gallon drums and DELO worked for my D4 as well as my truck. I used it in my '93 1500 which I sold with 175,000 miles on it. The bike was still running like new and using no oil be tween changes. You can use synthetic oil but I don't see how it's a good deal economically. It does the same thing that dino oil does but for a lot more money. Better to use a good dino and change it more often than the high priced stuff, that way you get all the carbon and combustion products flushed out more often.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
802 Posts
Me? I'm a believer in Full Syn oil. I recently took down a 94 Acura Integra engine with 95k miles. It had run full syn it's entire life. There was no measurable wear on any of the bearings, crank, cams and the cylinders still had the factory cross hatch visible on the cylinder walls. No sludge in the pan and there were no leaks in the gaskets or seals.

The reason I took the engine down was for a close inspection prior to installing it in another vehicle. Original Acura had been wrecked.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
27,899 Posts
Me? I'm a believer in Full Syn oil. I recently took down a 94 Acura Integra engine with 95k miles. It had run full syn it's entire life. There was no measurable wear on any of the bearings, crank, cams and the cylinders still had the factory cross hatch visible on the cylinder walls. No sludge in the pan and there were no leaks in the gaskets or seals.

.
That is normal for any Honda engine no matter what oil is used in it.
 

·
Postpubescent member
Joined
·
36,382 Posts
It is normal indeed. I've opened up several 1100s and found much the same conditions.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
109 Posts
I run 10-40 Amsoil in my 2008 and intended to change at extended mileage to compensate for the high price. I changed the oil early at 4000 miles because I thought the shifting was not as smooth as it should be. I was right, new oil made a dramatic change in the shifting. I am now considering running 4000 miles between changes. I will use a less expensive oil but change it more often. I know the Wing oil can be changed every 8000 miles and still last my lifetime but I don't like the way it shifts. Don
 

·
Postpubescent member
Joined
·
36,382 Posts
Try DELO 400 15W40, it worked well for me in my 1500 and 1800. I also changed at 4000 +/- miles unless I was on a long road trip. If the bike's being run for long distances every day for a couple weeks I don't mind going to the full 8000 miles since that kind of use is easy on an engine compared to short trips.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
456 Posts
It is normal indeed. I've opened up several 1100s and found much the same conditions.
I'll third that, I've done head gaskets a couple very high mile 1200's and noted that cylinder wear was practically nil. Not only were the cross hatches still evident but I couldn't feel any 'ridge' at the top of the ring travel. Honda piston/cylinder clearance is VERY tight...if you can discern any wear at all by sight or feel it's probably out of spec or at the service limit.

I fit new piston/cylinder clearance normally at less than .001 inches on a typical Honda small engine. The minimum spec is usually half a thousandth inches. Sometimes I think it kinda freaks my machinist out. For comparison a typical fit on a Ski-Doo two stroke sled engine would be .003 to .004 inches.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
314 Posts
I have used AMSOIL motorcycle specific full synthetic in my 2009 Wing for some time....10W-30. I just bought a 2012 Wing and wish to eventually change it to synthetic and the dealer told me I should wait for 6000-8000KM to allow the valves to seat before doing so.

Can someone advise if that recommendation is the way to go?

Thanks for your help.

Ken
Oil does not touch valve seats. Just FYI.
And by the time the first oil change is due, it is perfectly acceptable to use Amsoil.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top