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Alan, as Dave and Dennis have already mentioned, switching to LED lights does NOT help the stator.
What it really does is cause the Regulator to take on the full load of the stator, as stators are not Regulated like an Alternator.

Stators always put out FULL POWER for a given RPM, and the Excess Power must be absorbed by the loads, or the Regulator....

You could have replaced the Regulator/Rectifier with a Series Regulator and that would have lightened the load on the Stator, but not with the Honda supplied Reg/Rectifier... which is a Variable Short Circuit To Ground.... properly known as a SHUNT REGULATOR.
Well now, there's still time for that as I've got a whole list of other items to go through on the bike before this riding season. So, where would I get, and what part number would I get, to make the revision you are suggesting?

And will the same regulator work for the Poor Boy Conversion?

I'm open to suggestions, but my fix (however unorthodox it was) has allowed me to climb the mountains around me at 100% power versus the 30% I was getting before the LED change, and the fear of being run over by an 18 wheeler has gone away. On the other hand, if I burn out a regulator on a mountain grade, I guess I'll have 0% power and become an instant speed bump.

Dead is one thing, maimed and sent to an emergency room in the current state of affairs is an entirely different scenario I don't want to visit in the short term.

So what's your setup recommendation? I'll thank you in advance! Alan
 

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As i understand it the poorboy coversion uses a car type alternator that has an internal regulator and rectifier so all the Honda stuff is redundant
 

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As i understand it the poorboy conversion uses a car type alternator that has an internal regulator and rectifier so all the Honda stuff is redundant
correct:

If the current Stator is good? which I am suspect of right now, because of what you said about changing to LEDs and the charge voltage came up to "normal"... then a series MOSFET Regulator/Rectifier would be the proper way to go, and would help to maintain the bike in Factory condition.... more or less.

The "Poorboy" conversion requires that you do a bit of hacking around.
If you are handy with tools, it is not overly difficult to do, as many folks have done it.
Should you decide later to do that, there are some very good threads on here about that.

I would suggest finishing up your other projects to get the bike ready to ride, before making that decision.

This is a Series Reg/Rec: SH847 SERIES R/R KITS
That is way down on this page: Home

321868
 

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correct:

If the current Stator is good? which I am suspect of right now, because of what you said about changing to LEDs and the charge voltage came up to "normal"... then a series MOSFET Regulator/Rectifier would be the proper way to go, and would help to maintain the bike in Factory condition.... more or less.

The "Poorboy" conversion requires that you do a bit of hacking around.
If you are handy with tools, it is not overly difficult to do, as many folks have done it.
Should you decide later to do that, there are some very good threads on here about that.

I would suggest finishing up your other projects to get the bike ready to ride, before making that decision.

This is a Series Reg/Rec: SH847 SERIES R/R KITS
That is way down on this page: Home

View attachment 321868
Thank you for specifications. I've already found the "Construction of Poor Boy Conversions" on Steve's Site. Like I said previously, I have a parts bike with a running engine, plus I have a spare 1100 on the shop floor to experiment with the mounting of drive pulley on. Once complete, I'll transfer what I have to the parts bike and figure out the belt an mounting system. After testing (and this years riding season) I can transfer the setup to my road bike.

I've got access to a full machine shop, certified welder for 25+ years, and worked on aircraft in the Marine Corps. Obviously I'm still working on my electronic skills but if I can't figure this out with help of the Members here, I most likely shouldn't be riding.

I thank everyone here on this thread for their guidance and all the help total I've received on this website. Be safe out there! Alan
 

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As AZgl1800 said above … Why I ran two 37.5 watt sealed beam fog lights most of the time, took some load off regulator … and I liked the looks of the old school Unity SS housings. I noticed also that with them "on" the analog volt meter stayed rock steady where as it would fluctuate a little when they were "off". I never tried to open the faux tank door and removed the tray to feel the reg/rec' temperature while riding, but it should have run cooler with less excess power being shunted to ground.

321869


For some reason, every time I try to quote recently, I get this message: "No messages were selected."
 
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