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Q:


Can anyone tell me how to avoid the front end wooble that the GL1800 has between 30-40 mph?

I use Metzeler tyres and the recomended psi.
 

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Has the tyre just been changed, has balance weights come off,has the bike had a front end bump, has the bike been dropped?
 

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Sounds like the wheel needs to be balanced ,if the wobble goes out of it when you increase or decrease speed points to wheel balance ..if the wheel was buckled or some thing else the wobble would be there al the time ,,get the balance checked ,,cheers Ciaran:waving::waving:
 

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When you replaced your tire, did you properly install the keepers? The arrows must face forward. Torque down the back then the front.

Kyle
 

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The front tyre is new and perfectly balanced.

The byke has been dropped to the left once, but I think nothing affected the front wheel or the steering.

The Honda dealer is telling me that all Goldwings have this problem and they suggest me to change tyres (from Metzeler to another brand) and increase the pressure to 40/45.

Should I accept this?
 

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I think he is bulls#####ng you ,,I dont have the problem and my last front tyre was almost bald when I changed it ,,,,Ciaran
 

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I've seen this issue mentioned on other forums and it seems to be specific to Metzelers. Not everyone is going to have this problem and I wonder if this is part of the reason that Metzeler replaced their tyre for the GL1800. 45psi seems awful high and I would be afraid that this would affect grip.
 
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esaraiva wrote:
Can anyone tell me how to avoid the front end wooble that the GL1800 has between 30-40 mph?

I use Metzeler tyres and the recomended psi.
Hey esaraiva, :waving:Yes i will tell you whats causing your woobbbbllleeeee but like a lot of :18red:riders you wont take the advice. :whip: Take that Metzeler tyre off and throw it as far away as you possible can, :whip: and dont ever be guilty of putting such rubbish on your :18red:again. :crying:Fit the 709 Stone with 36/37psi and i will guarntee that your :18red:will not wobble at any speed. :weightlifter:Make sure the arrows face the direction of travel. :clapper:

:coollep: :18red: :coollep:
 

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esaraiva, any dealer that tells you that a front end wobble is normal should have their repair license pulled from them.

Find another repair facility that knows what they are doing with a Gold Wing and get the wobble fixed before you get hurt.

Vic
 

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Redwing is right. Two things:

#1. Fire any mechanic that does not use computer spin balancing. Bubble balance is OK for a dirt bike but there is too much rotating mass in these wheels for that nonsense. A slight out-of- balance that cannt be detected by a bubble balancer will wreak havoc when that massive wheel starts spinning.

#2 Had same thing happen with brandy-new Dunlop. Wouldnt balance and gyrated when running. Put a straight edge on the tread and found the tread deflecting when it rotated. Cause? Defective tire. Large crack inside tire casing. Dunlop sales admitted to tire problems in that cheap series. Replaced with a good Bridgestone and spin balance - perfect.

1800 should be too new to have developed front-end problems.

Dont buy the tale about loose head bearings, they cannot cause it, only amplify whats there. The inertia in that 50 lb (?) wheel rotating at several hundred RPM is far more than what input a loose head bearing can cause. Remember the old science demo about holding a rotating bicycle wheel over your head? The 10 pound wheel will drive your 100 lb body wherever it wants and theres nothing you can do to stop it.

Tightening the head bearings (from an engineering standpoint) does something called "damping an oscillating system". The "oscillation" is the handlebars going back 'n forth and "damping" is tightening the bearings to "dampen" or stop the vibration. Find a vibrating radio antenna on a car or bike thats vibrating and pinch it with your fingers - the vibration stops or changes radically.

Tightening the bearings cannot possibly eliminate a problem in the front wheel, the vibration is stil there, but now the bearings absord the vibration and destroys the bearing races. Then one day you wake up with handlebar shake you cant control and go in the ditch. BEEN THERE, SEEN THAT! Its extremely scary.

I decided to test this theoryon my first GL1200A (and have done it on every vehicle since). I set the head bearingsextremely loose. Hondas test at the time was to put the bike on main stand, lift the front wheel, center the bars and then push them to one side, they should not hit the stop. Second part of the test was that the handlebars should not shake when held with 2 fingers of each hand. Mine head bearings were so loose they hit the steering stop and went half-way back to center.

There was absolutely no shake in my front end at ANY speed up to 110 mph with no hands on the handlebars. Made for extremely fast steering butI dont recommend it to just any rider. Throwing 940 pounds of Gl1200 around isn't easy.

Dave http://gl1200harness.tripod.com
 
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Dave Campbell wrote:
Redwing is right. Two things:

#1. Fire any mechanic that does not use computer spin balancing, there is too much rotating mass in these wheels for that nonsense.

#2 Had same thing happen with brand-new Dunlop. Replaced with a good Bridgestone and spin balance - perfect.

Dont buy the tale about loose head bearings, they cannot cause it, only amplify whats there.

Dave http://gl1200harness.tripod.com

Hey Dave Campbell, :waving:Welcome to the forum and visit often. :clapper:You only joined today and you have posted 17 times. :clapper:It's very easy to see that you know what your talking about and of course im delighted that you agree with what i said about this famous wwooobbbbblllleeee. :whip: I see by your profile that you have a lot of titles including the village idiot, :crying:well im knowing as the forum idiot :crying:and thats probably all we have in common. :baffled:We have a "Guru" status on this forum:stumped:for members who are well up on goldwings :jumper:but something tells me that a higher title will have to be found for you. :weightlifter:

:leprechaun: :18red: :leprechaun:
 

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Well--- I didnt agree with what you said -- YOU WERE RIGHT!! Theres a difference. You were right regardless of what I said. Im just tossing in an experience on top of it.

All kidding aside, Ive spend many years ripping the ol 1200sto little un-recognisable bits and seeing what makes them tick. Just hoping to help the newbies avoid damage or injury, these cycles are horribly complex. The only time Ive been more scared than when the GL handlebars started shaking is when I was chased into a thicket by a jealous husband.

Signed, Village Idiot.:)
 

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Hi Dave, welcome to the forum. I've been reading your posts and your contriutions to the tech discussions will be very useful.
 

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Hi Dave Campbell and welcome to this wonderful forum.

I hate to disagree with a new person on this board but I feel that I must set the record straight.

Since the GL1800 is new and since it is mass produced there is more of a chance that it may have loose steering head bearings than an older Wing that has been gone over carefully by a caring and knowledgeable mechanic or qualified owner.

New only means recently put together and purchased, it does not mean better than used. I have seen several cases of GL1800 steering head bearing failures and these were most likely caused by some assembly line worker who was having a bad day and did not seat or torque the steering head bearings properly at the factory, thereby leading the bearings to premature failure.

I really appreciate most of what you are stating in your post but leaving steering head bearings loose is not wise under any circumstances because all it would take is to pick up a bolt or other road hazard in a tire to initiate a wobble that you may never recover from. Certain road conditions can also cause the wobble if the steering head bearings are loose ifa harmonic imbalance is at the right condition to initiate the wobble. I just want everyone to understand that it is critical to keep steering head bearings properly adjusted and lubricated and your post makes light of this very important maintenance fact.

Looking forward to seeing many more posts from you and thanks for sharing your experiences with all of here.

Vic
 

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Dave Campbell wrote:
Tightening the head bearings (from an engineering standpoint) does something called "damping an oscillating system". The "oscillation" is the handlebars going back 'n forth and "damping" is tightening the bearings to "dampen" or stop the vibration. Find a vibrating radio antenna on a car or bike thats vibrating and pinch it with your fingers - the vibration stops or changes radically.

Tightening the bearings cannot possibly eliminate a problem in the front wheel, the vibration is stil there, but now the bearings absord the vibration and destroys the bearing races. Then one day you wake up with handlebar shake you cant control and go in the ditch. BEEN THERE, SEEN THAT! Its extremely scary.
My 1200 SEI has the resonant oscillation problem in the typical 30-40mph range common to many Goldwings. The SEI has handle bar weights inserted into the ends of the bars to lower the resonant frequency of this oscillation but it wasn't totally effective. You can take the weights out and scare the hell out of yourself because the oscillation will occur at higher speeds and at a higher oscillation frequency. Pre-loading the head bearings tend to reduce the oscillation frequency by reducing the frame/fork flexing. Front end flexing in the frame and fork is the main culprit in this problem. My old Triumph 650 of early 1950s vintage was a fine example. They had a friction plate with a handwheel so you could adjust the steering friction on the fly. If you were riding around town you could slack it off for easy steering and crank it down on the highway to keep things less exciting.

On my 1200 I've tried different tires, rotated the tires around the wheel, increased preloading, have a Superbraceand still have some Goldwing wobble around 35-40mph. I can damp it out with one finger on the handlebar but it's still there. At 95mph the bike is solid, you can rap on the handlebar and nothing happens, only around 35-40 is the tendency there. When I have a few bucks to spare I will try Progressive springs to see if that makes a change. It would be interesting to try running without the fairing, trunk, and saddlebags to see if that would make any change in the resonant frequency of the frame.
 

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Thanks to all that replied to my question.

I just solved the problem because I contacted the Metzeler agent here in Portugal and got a staright answer:"I are using the wrong tyre".

In fact I was using a E880 Marathon Front, and the correct tyre is E880 MarathonG Front. This tyre is specially built for the Goldwing.

He also told me that the other makes must also have this kind of tyres but most of the dealers don´t bare about it and simply mount equivalent tyres.

Now, the byke feelscompletely different and the wooble is finished.

Hope this will help people who has the same problem.
 

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The tyre is wider and the belts aremuch srtonger.

I presume there is nothing about the bearings because the steering is now perfect.

Bye
 
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Redwing. wrote:
Hey Dave Campbell, :waving:Welcome to the forum and visit often. :clapper:It's very easy to see that you know what your talking about.We have a "Guru" status on this forum:stumped:for members who are well up on goldwings :jumper:but something tells me that a higher title will have to be found for you. :weightlifter:

:leprechaun: :18red: :leprechaun:
Hey Dave Campbell, :waving:Three days on the forum and promoted to "Guru" :clapper: well done. :clapper:Did you travel to Dublin for the Interview? or did the wingnut fly over to the states. :baffled: You must be in contention for the new :18red:your posts are flying. :clapper:First to 1000 posts wins the :18red:. Ride Safe. :grinner:

:weightlifter: :18red: :weightlifter:

 
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