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I flushed my radiator, new anti=freeze and cap today but the da-gum temp. gauge still gets up to the red. Previous owner hadput a thermastat in plus he stated it has never run hot and temp. gauge had always went high on him.

I can put 70 lbs. in rear shocks and no bottoming out but they leak slowly down 15-20 lbs. in about 30 minutes. Probably dumb questions but wonder if plumber's tape on fitting would help because they leak faster now than before taking them loose.
 

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Did the PO just put in the new thermostat? There is a bypass hole in the thermo that needs to be located at the 12 o'clock position to reduce air pocketing. Also, when filling, top off the radiator and "burp" the engine by running it to temp with the cap off, and refilling as needed. Replace the cap, and fill the resivour. After letting it cool down completely, check and refill through the resivour as needed (may take a few cycles).
There also is a 7 volt regulator that cuts the voltage to both the temp and gas gauges. Is your gas gauge inaccurate, too? This could be the regulator.

The shocks are rebuildable if the leak isn't fixed by plumbers tape! (can't hurt to try, right?)

Good wrenchin,
Todd
 

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Forn the shocks seals can be bought from the dealer for about $15 each. The air fittings have small "O"rings which should only cost pennies at a good hardware store.
 

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Todd, I did do the radiator likethat this morningto try and get out any air pockets. Noticed the level would only bubble every so often but the coolant would not flow sideways like in a car? I did not know about the thermostat bypass hole to be located at the 12:00 position- very good info.

Yes, gas gauge is inaccurate also. Man, if I knew the 7 volt regulator is the problemI would replace it in a heartbeat. I am going to see if I can have it tested, if possible, or replace it. The idea of the plumber's tape hit me when I noticed the air seems to go down faster after loosing the line, almost certain I got them back good and tight.

Only thing with the tape it would need to stay for sure on the threads and not in the line.

Tim, I saw your post the other day on how the seals and springs helped yours. If I can't getmineto quit leaking down from 70lbs, that's what I am going to do.

Thanks for the help guys, I am not much of a mechanic and new to this bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
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if I knew the 7 volt regulator is the problem I would replace it in a heartbeat. I am going to see if I can have it tested, if possible, or replace it.

Wonder if the regulator gets weaker in time cause I hate to spend $140 and still have the fuel/temp gauges not accurate situation. Anybody else posted in the past that have put a new regulator on and fuel/temp gauges got corrected?
 

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I did the same darn thing when reinstalling my radiator after the belt change. Temp gauge went over to red. Turns out I didn't burp the radiator enough. Hot air/steam will send it right over in no time.

As for the leak, mix up some soapy water and spray on the various fittings until you find the one that bubbles up. Tighten or fix.
 

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Good idea on the soapy water. I am going to get the 2 new O'ring gaskets that go in the compressor also because they are probably old if not factory.
Chris, the PO said the gauges were never right in the year he owned it. I changed the PO Castrol 20/50 car oil to Amsoil 10/40 and the bike starts right up now as I seen as a posted tip here. The first ride after the oil change the temp. gauge stayed at 1/4 mark, which I had never seen and I got excited about it, then a day or so later it started the 3/4 to redline mark again.
 
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