[The Handyman]

imported post

My battery went dead on me yesterday. I put the charger on it for the night and came in here and hit the "search button" I remembered reading earlier about a stator test so found that thread, copy and pasted it into text and printed it out so i had it in my shop.
When I took apart the wire connection with the 3 yellow wires, 1 "port" was fried.
I ran a continuity test on the 3 wires after cutting off the bad spots. I got a reading that there was continuity between the 3 wires and the engine. I don't think this is the way it was supposed to read. There was not much continuity there. I hadn't started the engine up so everything was cold. I don't know if that would make a difference or not. I fired up the bike and got my buddy to bring the revs up to 4000 to do a voltage test. I got readings of between 50-60 volts between 2 sets of wires but only 25 with the 3rd wire. I have concerns that possibly I may have not had a good connection with that low reading. (second guessing) Is this something that I should be worried about? Soldered the wires back together and will take the bike out for a test run tomorrow after workie.
Sorry for being so long winded but just wanted to make sure that I followed the steps right and if not what should I do. Thank you all for your helpful advice (Also did a load test on battery first to check it. Was OK)

 

[Hatchetman]

imported post

the dreaded 1200 stator problem, & it looks like you have it. Replacing a stator in that bike requires pulling the motor & a whole bunch of other crap.

Take a look at a "Poor boy conversion" for your bike. It involves bolting a small alternator on the lower front of your bike & running a belt off your crank pully. The kit comes with all the parts & instructions on assembly. A few members here have done the conversion & some of them are not mechanically inclined. It isnt a bad job & this forum is an awesome support base to ask lots of questions!

Keep us posted!

Wayne.
jburf has posted in a thread that he has just completed a poor boy conversion. send him a "PM" and get his advise & opinion on that fix!

 

[JOHNO]

imported post

if your only getting 50v out of two wires and the third is low, your charging system will not cope with heavy electrical loads like riding with lights on etc.



Try putting a voltmeter on 20v DC range across the battery terminals, note the volts, strt the engine watch the volts drop and recover,the volts should now read about 1.5v-2v higher than the prestartreading (13-14.5v) now add some electrical load like lights, the volts should remain above 13.5v if it drops to battery voltage (which irt will if a winding in the stator has failed) then, I'm afraid it's a new stator or an external alternator conversion.



you could run the bike for a while like this but carry a jump starter or spare battery with you and don't ride at night



here's the thread of my alternator conversion i did a few weeks ago, I had low AC volts on all three windings (25vAC) of the stator.



http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/view_topic.php?id=72967&forum_id=1&msg=3



Now I can run with everything switched on with plenty of spare capacity, also easier to swap out should the alternator fail

 

[The Handyman]

imported post

I have heard of the "poorboy" trick but didn't know how it was done.I looked at your pics. very very nice job. Not sure tho how to drive it off of the engine. I will need to see some pics or more details on how that is done. I am guessing that the smaller size of alternator, the better and by going this route it will open the bike up for more "electrical gadgets" (Got me scheming now LOL)
One thing that I did notice after I redid the wiring. My bike starts alot better now. Before it would spin over a couple timmes before fireing up but now hit the starter and she is running right away. If you start getting a slow start is that a possible indication of problems ariseing or was that just coincidence? So my nxt project will be to find a small size alternator and plan on a weekend project. One question that I have. Since the bike revs at 3000-4000RPM will this have any adverse affect on a car altenator since a car is only running at around +/-2000RPM or do we have to watch our pulley sizes closley?
Thankyou for your help