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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I will leave it to the reader to check the thread (www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2-goldwing-technical-forum/424137-new-gl1000-project-first-big-problem.html) that I previously started (in 2013) about this project. I got side-tracked by life, but am now retired and have been beating on the old GL1000 with gusto. The engine has been through both heads off and rebuilt, painting and polishing.

I think that all of the parts needing painting other than those that will get dark green (side panels, shelter sides, fenders) have finally been de-rusted, cleaned, primed (etching primer) and painted (most clear coated also). The front fender has been sanded and primed. The side covers have been sanded, primed, sanded, sanding primed, sanded, primed and ready for color. Only the rear fender and shelter sides need preped for color. The saddle is at the upholsterer getting the vinyl sewn. I cut the rear fender down today and just need to pound some bumps in it for mounting before sanding down the chrome and then priming it.

But the big news for today is..... The frame is now back on the engine!!!!! Quite a milestone for me. The wife helped jockey the frame with me and I took her out to lunch to thank her (we rode the GL1800 and rode over Norris Dam on the way home).
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Glamor shot of the engine (mocked up for the photo, which gave me a spiritual lift to keep going). There was soooo much wrong with it (including rust in the bottom of #1 and 3 cylinders). Hopefully good-to-go now!
 

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Wow! Your engine looks great. I see a whole lot of elbow grease in the polishing of all that brightwork. Great job.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Mounted the radiator (temporary) today and hooked up coolant lines. Read so many reports of coolant leaks after a rebuild, I figure now before carbs and wiring is the best time to test. Gave a bit or pressure through a rudimentary pressure test rig hooked to the overflow line and it bled off pretty fast. I guess tomorrow soapy water and a paint brush on all of the joints. Hey! That should clean it up some!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Pressed the water system up with ~5 psi air to look for leaks. Soap solution didn't find any (although it won't hold pressure). Will listen with stethoscope tomorrow when the wife isn't using the washer and dryer in the garage.
 

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Man I'm envious of you guys that have the time AND energy to take on a bike project of that magnitude. That is really looking great. Time is of essence around my house, along with working 7 days a week, keeping up on the house repairs and keeping 6 children's cars running properly and making the time to give my bike some love.. I stay very busy.

Aren't you going to clean things up before you start putting it back together? >:)
And it's guys like Dennis that make comments like this that make me Grin on a regular basis!!


.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Retirement has its benefits. Leak was a hole in the radiator. Luckily, right on the edge of a tube. I was able to solder it up pretty easily. Glad I use air to test instead of water - would have taken a lot longer to get the heat right. Today, I took the radiator back off to touch up the paint on the sides. Installed the battery box. Pounded some nifty dimples in the rear fender for mounting. Sanded the chrome off of it and primed with etching primer.
 

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Glamor shot of the engine (mocked up for the photo, which gave me a spiritual lift to keep going). There was soooo much wrong with it (including rust in the bottom of #1 and 3 cylinders). Hopefully good-to-go now!
That is probably the best looking Gold Wind engine I have ever seen. Thanks for the new wallpaper.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
A bit more progress today. I had pulled the radiator to re-mount the fan and add the guard on the front - plus change the upper hose to a new one. Mounted that all back up. Mounted the swingarm/rear drive and reconnected the driveshaft. I have to say that it was very easy to reconnect the u-joint and put the correct external circlip on it. A LOT easier that getting the internal circlip off!

Now, I've begun re-wiring it. Oh, joy! POs have modified, neglected, and generally hosed up the wiring. I had already replaced 75% of the connectors. Discovered that the starter solenoid had been replaced with one with the B connection at the back and M at the front if mounted in the rubber boot. Ended up splicing an inline fuse holder to the red lead and joining the red/white and the upstream end of the fuse to the B terminal (dogbone long gone).

The bike end of the 8 pin connector to the rectifier has three green wires and connectors. The rectifier plug only had two green wires and connectors. I added another connector and green wire and ran it to a good frame ground.

With the addition of the swingarm, the thing is getting a little rear heavy (still mounted on a furniture dolly), so I may work on the front forks and triple tree next. Or finish the carb rack and mount it. I want to get the carbs on before mounting the shelter frame, anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
That is probably the best looking Gold Wind engine I have ever seen. Thanks for the new wallpaper.
Haha, Thanks! Just don't look too close. I've got to do something about the rust on the carb linkages.
 

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That's awesome, but to me, that means you've either got a real handle on this. Or!!

You really don't understand the situation!!

But in your case I believe it's the former.

Good luck fella!:wink2:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Carbs mounted up today. Pretty easy with the shelter still off and wiring not that far forward. No photos, though. Thinking triple tree and bars next to let me run the throttle, choke, and clutch cables while the shelter is still off.
 

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Is the rest of the bike going to match the engine?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Is the rest of the bike going to match the engine?
The fenders, side covers and shelter sides will be dark emerald metallic green. Cafe seat saddle portion and shelter door woven leather-look vinyl with back part of the seat a dark green. Only the engine will be MG Maroon.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I had on hand a ~12" long, ~1.5" diameter aluminum bar (previously used to dimple the rear fender for mounting bolts). One end of it is drilled and tapped for a 3/8" bolt. The rod was perfect for tapping out the upper bearing race, ,and with the addition of a heavy fender washer about 1/8" larger in radius that the rod attached by a 3/8" bolt to the threaded end was just right to tap out the lower race. Only took about a minute. To remove the lower inner race, I first cut the roller cage and removed the cage and rollers, then used a fine, delicate (shatter so easy!) wheel in my moto-tool to carefully cut the inner race down until I heard it go tink!. It actually broke free under the tension that they are installed. I then polished the mating surface. New bearings due Wednesday. Next, I pulled one of the forks apart and cleaned, measured, polished, and assembled it with a new seal and 200 cc of fresh Dexron. I'll do the other tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
A little more on the Hunley today (even thought the bearings didn't show up as promised). With carbs on, I hooked up throttle cables, choke, clutch, and tach cables. Sanded side covers in preparation for filler primer and more sanding.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I finally was able to paint some! Humidity in the 40's, so I put down etching primer, black (Duplicolor wheel paint), and clear (also Duplicolor wheel) on the upper and lower triple tree and the air filter housing. Also put filler primer on the side panels and sanded them to remove a couple divots. Look like one or two more coats of primer and they will be ready for color. Hooked up the crankcase vent to the air cleaner housing after it was mounted, and then hooked up the drain bottle. A little tricky on a '75 motor (with the kick start quadrant back there) in a '78 frame, but I prefer the '78 system. Hope to be able to shoot color on the tins next week. Kind of wondering if the paint I've chosen will look right over different color primers (olive drab etching primer and light grey filler primer). Might just paint it all with a couple coats of black before I shoot the dark emerald green metallic.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Painted the tins yesterday. Taking the side covers out to paint I noticed that the primer will still soft. It had been on for a couple weeks at least. I left them aside and painted the shelter sides, radiator scoops, front and rear fenders, and the little piece that bolts to the back of the shelter under the door. Pretty happy with the way the color turned out. It is just lacquer, so I need to let it cure for a bit and then buff the clear coat. A little orange peel in a few places on the shelter sides, otherwise it looks great. Today I scrapped (sanding primer was so soft a lot of it scraped off with a putty knife) the paint off of the side covers and discovered after trial and error that there is a clear coat on the side covers that the primer (which is lacquer-based) doesn't agree with. I have almost all of that off now, too. Tried some etching primer over them lightly and there are just a few spots left to address. I'll get some more etching primer, seal everything off with that, and then lightly apply the sanding primer. Meanwhile, I pulled the rear brake system apart and got one of the pistons out. The side with the connections wasn't so easy (used air to get the first one out). I have blanked the cross port and applied air, but so far no piston movement. I'll get at it again tomorrow. Oh, and recharged the S10 AC system as it will be my work commute transportation on bad-weather days this summer.
 
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