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Here is a pic of the connector for the stator wires on my '84 Aspencade. This was located next to the battery vent. Judging from the condition I would hazzard a guess that I was not far from shorting out the stator. The connector has been cut off and the wires soldered together. The joints were protected with heat shrink tubing and taped together with vinyl tape. The whole works as been protected with a split plastic wire sleeve which is supported with a nylon wire tie to the battery bracket.
 

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Close shave there! That's typical of a badly roasted connector. Looks like you got to it just in time.
 

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the only good thing in that picture is the cut-off yellow wires :cheeky1:
 

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the terminal on the right side connector under where the divot is is what caused it. Amazing how much heat a few amps can generate through a flaky connector at 2 ohms! Then put grease in it (thanks, Honda) and raise the resistance some more and they can literally melt down.

Just be sure the solder joints arent taped tightly together because they can short if squished together and "fry it."


Odd thing is that there are 3 identical connectors in the regulator plug that carry exactly the same current, and they dont do this. Notice the stator plug is beside the battery vent. Amazing what a little sulfuric acid and moisture can do!
 

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Dave Campbell wrote:
Just be sure the solder joints arent taped tightly together because they can short if squished together and "fry it."

Each conductor is covered with heat shrink and then the trio is protected by vinyl tape. I ran the whole thing through a corrogated, plasticwire wrap
 

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An electrician friend of mine gave me a roill of very thick rubber tape a while back that is ideal for this. You wrap the tape around the wire and the tape bonds to itself so well that you just cannot peel it apart. It fuses together into one piece. Nice and thick, ideal for this sort of job. I'll dig it up and get the name of it later in the week.
 

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It's called Friction Tape I beleive.
 

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Some auto parts stores sell it here in the states - either orange colored or black with a stripe down the middle. I also used it on airplanes when I was in the Air Force. Don't know the proper name for it.
 

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mjpliv,

Take a look at the connector I found, looks bad, I hope I got there in time.

Dean
 

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Yours looks like it was actually starting to arc inside the connector. One of the male tabs looks burnt.
 

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That silicon based tape is great stuff, seals, resists just about any known chemical, and high electrical resistance. I've been using it and now consider it one of my standbys just as important as WD-40. It ain't cheap, but the tape is stretched to twice it's normal length when applying so you really get twice as much as stated on the roll. Here's the dope:

http://www.atomictape.com/
 

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I have usually seen these connectors go bad like the pic after the bike owner has done a lot of cranking when the engine was hard to start, because, the alternator has to work so hard to get the battery back up to full charge.

Moral of the story: keep those charging system connections tight and clean and if you have to do a lot of cranking to get your Wing started, charge the battery with a charger before you go for a ride. It's a lot easier to clip some charger wires onto the battery terminals than it is to replace a burned out stator.

Vic
 

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I have a 0.5 amp charger. Is there any reason I would have to remove the cell caps to charge my battery? It came with a quick connector which I left attached to the battery. I have been removing the battery to charge it but it's a pain in the butt. I can't remove the cell caps while the battery is in place.
 

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1/2 amp shouldn't be any problem as long as you have the vent hose in place. I cannot stress that enough everyone, MAKE SURE YOUR VENT HOSE IS IN PLACE! When riding, the battery is being charged, and will outgass. When charging at home on a trickle, it will outgass. Do you really want that sulfuric acid all ofer the innards of your bike? Especially seeing as the gas tank is right there? Anyhow, the max charging rate for a battery is 10% of the rated Amp-Hour life of the battery. (24 Amp/hour battery= 2.4 amp max charging current) After 10 hours, the battery will begin to boil, so it has to come off of the charger a bit before then. Smart chargers, like the one I am guessing you have, keep track of the current going into the battery, and watch for it to plateau. Once it reaches about 90% capacity, it switches to a maintenence charge, and brings the battery to about 95% where it keeps it for as long as you have it plugged in.
 

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mjpliv wrote:
I have a 0.5 amp charger. Is there any reason I would have to remove the cell caps to charge my battery? It came with a quick connector which I left attached to the battery. I have been removing the battery to charge it but it's a pain in the butt. I can't remove the cell caps while the battery is in place.
If your battery vent tube is in good shape and the far end hangs below the bike an inch or two, you shouldn't have any problem. After all it's charging at a much higher rate when you ride.

:whip: DON'T charge it on the bike with the caps off!! :whip:
 

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watch that vent hose, it can cause lots of grief, got one here now that touched the muffler, melted the end and dripped acid on the battery holder.

10-4 on the 0.5 amp, perfect. Just dont smoke or strike an arc near a charging battery, them lil bubbles are extremely explosive.
 
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