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So, as mentioned yesterday in the new member's section, I'm a new rider AND a 'new' '86 GL1200A owner. The bike was a 2-owner, fairly unmolested bike with 80k that I bought from a retired Firefighter and Pastor, and the plan is to rehab the old girl, then get my riding skills up to snuff with the plan to do an epic cross-country ride in spring 2021 for a 'big round number' birthday. I intend this to be a work-in-progress, and hope to provide some entertaining and useful info while I learn all about riding AND the ins-and-outs of this bike.

And here's where we begin: a 1986 GL1200 Aspencade. Owner was a regular rider with his wife, until one day in spring 2018. They were ending a ride back at his house, pulled in and... Clutch wouldn't disengage. He dropped the bike with wifey on the back. Neither was injured, but in time it became apparent he was too damn old to be riding it anymore, and the wife didn't trust it. I bought it in August 2019. He replaced the battery and got it running, but noted a 'fuel leak'... He shut it off, and couldn't get it started a few days later... But I had proof it was running. Fuel smell in the oil told the story, it was hydrolocked.... He'd left the petcock open while he was working on it.

Anyway, I was satisfied with what I saw, we did the deal, and he was nice enough to trailer the bike the almost 2-hour-drive to my house. I paid for a nice dinner for he and his wife, and we all had a nice talk. I was traveling for work, so it was a few weeks before I could do anything with her... Started by pulling the lower fairings, top box, and plugs. One cylinder produced a couple of tablespoons' worth of gas, but afterwards the bike spun over like a top with plugs out. I've now pulled the front of the engine apart to replace the timing belts, Gates T070's. Rusted bolts and screws I remove are getting replaced with stainless, and anything dirty or corroded is getting cleaned up to the best of my ability before reassembly. Already replaced the air filter with a HiFlo #HFA1906. Plugs will be NGK Iridiums, #2202, DPR8EIX-9's Hope is to reassemble the engine parts and fire the thing on Sunday.

My biggest dilemma at the moment, the timing belt covers are so corroded that even sanded and polished, there's noticeable pitting. I'm really thinking of priming and painting them Wrinkle-kote black.... As well as the Engine guards. I'm not a huge fan of chrome, but do intend to polish the visible motor parts such as the heads and valve covers back to 'shiny'. Might end up painting the horribly corroded carb-covers Wrinkle-kote blue. Those are cheap and available enough to replace if I don't like it later.

I'd appreciate some feedback on that take...
 

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I'm not a big chrome fan myself. Painting those parts would look just fine. Aluminum paint and clear looks pretty good too.
I suspect you are going to have carb troubles, if not you are a lucky guy. They just don't like to sit with fuel in them. Check the gas tank for rust also.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah, Carbs are definitely in my thoughts, and a rebuild will definitely be in my future. Just hoping not my NEAR future! I'd like to get this thing rolling and driving a bit before I tear it apart all over again...

On a positive note, one of the first things I looked at was the inside of the tank, and it's nearly pristine---Looks like someone cleaned and coated it at some point in its life. I've seen some truly ugly tanks in the year and a half I looked at Goldwings, and this was the absolute cleanest that I saw... By far.


I'd also like to report that, for posterity... That particular HiFlo Air filter did NOT have the port for fuel injected bikes, as some people have had to deal with when ordering GL1200 filters. Just had the one larger port, so I didn't have to deal with plugging a smaller one... Like the filter that came out of the bike.
 

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I like Wrinkle-kote black....

hopefully the carbs will be okay, but like Dave said, probably not.

inspect the gas tank close, hopefully no rust in it.

if there is, use Electrolysis to clean it all out, that will get every speck of rust there is.
do this 'real soon now'..... I realize he had it running just before you got it, but rust dust is hard on carbs.

here are a few links on that topic:

https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2-goldwing-technical-forum/395584-tank-electrolysis-works-great.html

https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2-goldwing-technical-forum/303313-cleaning-gas-tank-electrolysis.html

https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2-goldwing-technical-forum/494674-electrolysis-installed-75-goldwing-tank.html

https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2-goldwing-technical-forum/340539-question-electrolysis-cleaning-rust-out-gas-tank.html

https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2-goldwing-technical-forum/498897-preferred-gas-tank-renewing-cb500t.html
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks, AZgl1800. I do need to scope the tank proper, but it looks basically brand new just looking in with a flashlight. Appears to be clean AND coated. I've seen how bad these things can get firsthand, and was all well and prepared to have to do an electrolysis cleaning... But barring discovering rust in the back of the tank, i'm calling this a win. Oh, and definitely only using Ethanol free fuel, if I have a choice... I have a couple of good stations around here that carry it.


Like the intake tubes, those belt covers are readily available on eBay. Make sure you get the right year. They are not all the same.

Yes indeed, I think i'm just going to paint them wrinkle-kote black. If it ends up bugging me, i'll look for a cleaner set on Ebay... But I think they'll be fine.


Also just discovered the tube in the Coolant overflow tank needs replacement, the rubber nipple at the top where the elbow connects was completely perished. Cyclemax looks to have an identical NEW part for the GL1500, i've ordered one in and once it comes in, i'll report how close it is... Looks identical to my eye!
 

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You could get the timing belt covers powder coated. If your doing all that work you should replace the stator while your at it. It would be terrible to get it on the road and have the stator go out shortly there after. Hope you got a great price on it because it will require a lot of time on your part. Did you sit on it before you bought it to see if it fits your body size? I had a friend that bought an 1100 wing that sat for a few years, he rebuilt it from front to back, including stator and everything else, got it running and couldn't get comfortable on it, so he sold it.
 

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Only screws or bolts I'll replace with stainless steel are none stressed, non torqued fasteners for doodads I add, not bolts for covers. SS is not as strong as the OEM fasteners. Then there is the "length question" and rolled verses cut threads. If OEM are near useable, I reuse. If a matter of "looks", a cleaning and coating of clear fixes it.
You could get the timing belt covers powder coated. If your doing all that work you should replace the stator while your at it. .
I didn't see where he's taking the engine out of the frame. :surprise:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
According to the previous owner, the stator is only a few years old. Existing timing belts appear to be as well, but I'm replacing them anyway.

And while I haven't ridden a 1200, I have in fact sat on a number of bikes to determine if it seems like a good fit, and it at least seems like a good fit. Remember, this is also my first bike, so the only other experience I have is riding the MSF course bike or sitting on bikes that were stationary.

Good point about the stainless hardware, and indeed none of the hardware I'm replacing so far are graded, so I should be good there. If need be, I'll replace anything stressed with a comparable-grade replacement.

I thought about powdercoating, but I think painting will be ok... It would most probably be prohibitively expensive and a much slower process, at this juncture. I'm leaving the possibility open that if it really bothers me, I can always circle back around in time and re-finish the existing parts with a better process or order replacements...

I got what I consider a good deal on the bike, considering the others I've looked at over the course of the last year and a half. Yes it is requiring some work, but honestly that was somewhat by design in order to become more familiar with it. I maintain the bike has 'Good Bones', at least until I'm proven otherwise...:wink2::brokedown:
 

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I didn't see where he's taking the engine out of the frame. :surprise:[/QUOTE said:
He didn't say he was taking the motor out and thankfully he doesn't have to since the PO said he replaced the stator. My point was if he is doing all this work and the bike will be down IF the stator wasn't replaced he should do it while the bike was down rather than to get it on the road and have to tear it down then. We all know about the stators on the 1200 wings, if it hasn't gone out yet, it will. Back in 92 I made a deal on a new 92 Wing, on my way home from the dealer the stator on my 95 went out. I had to replace it before I sold the bike, the guy that bought the 85 was very happy.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Update. So, replaced air and oil filter, timing belts, coolant, oil, and spark plugs.

She runs!!! But she also leaks like a sieve from the carbs. I'm going to try starting her, then shutting off the petcock and letting her run out of fuel while tapping the carbs. Guess if that doesn't work, a carb rebuild kit is in my future...

Also noticed my neutral light doesn't seem to be working. I'll be investigating the light itself and the neutral switch.

Still waiting for Coolant overflow tank tube to arrive to give my report on that one...
 

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Welcome. Would suggest a flush of all fluids, brake/clutch/coolant. If the PO had clutch issues would recommend the clutch slave be removed, cleaned, new parts (very inexpensive to do), and put back in. Even though it may have been in use, not changing the fluids tends to crud up after a while. Pic of one attached. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Clean and flush clutch and brakes is definitely next on my list after getting the old girl running reliably (without leaks)... It's what led to the last owner parking it (clutch wouldn't disengage), so i'm pretty sure the clutch slave definitely needs an overhaul. Need to find out where it is on this bike...
 

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Clean and flush clutch and brakes is definitely next on my list after getting the old girl running reliably (without leaks)... It's what led to the last owner parking it (clutch wouldn't disengage), so i'm pretty sure the clutch slave definitely needs an overhaul. Need to find out where it is on this bike...
Look at the back of the engine from the starter side. You will see the slave cylinder in the middle of the engine. Can't mistake it has a bleed screw.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I see it now, Thanks much! I've already picked up a vacuum brake bleeder from HF, and know the whole bit about bleeding from the Slave AND Master...
 

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The GL1500 coolant overflow tank tube came in today, and i'm pleased to report that it will indeed work in a GL1200!!! The one for the GL1500 is just a tad shorter, maybe a half an inch, but otherwise is identical... I could extend the tube, but honestly I'm not entirely sure it's worth the trouble.

Taking some time off from wrenching this weekend to clear off the workbench in preparation for rebuilding the carbs, something i'll be attempting in a week or so, using Randakk's kit. Finally got the title transferred and registration completed, so at least it's legal... If only it was in driving condition! hoping to get her back on the road by Halloween...
 

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Just a quick update, Had some free time over lunch so I decided to bleed the clutch line. Lo and behold, I have clutch control again! Still going to rebuild both master and slave cylinders, but at least I know the darn thing works... When you get the massive amount of air out of it!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
So, in preparation for removing the Carb rack for overhaul, I decided to try to remove the engine guards as well, in order to refinish them (and get them out of the way). There's an ancient thread that says it can be done without taking the exhaust headers loose:

https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2-goldwing-technical-forum/331225-removing-left-engine-guard-crash-bar.html

After a solid, expletive-filled hour of trying to wriggle a tantalizingly-close-to-being-free rusty left crashguard out, I call BS. Pics or it didn't happen. :whip:

...Or maybe I'm just 'not holding my mouth right'? Advice appreciated.
 

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