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That was 10 years ago, so I don't really remember, but if I stated they came off without removing the exhaust headers, I'm sure they did. I haven't worked on that area of the bike in a long time.

One thing to take note of is the lower engine mount bolt. Paul said he tapped it in, or some such. I think that's important.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Nevermind; apparently the answer to this one is, 'a solid, expletive-filled hour-and-a-half, and a deadblow hammer.'>:)


As for getting it back in, well....


I did indeed tap the bolt in, but I tell ya... once it was free, that thing just DID NOT want to come out... No matter which way I twisted, pushed, and pulled...
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Left side (rider's perspective, clutch side)... I figured since the Carb rack comes out from that side, it would be the side to start.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
What do you mean by 'LGA' in the thread title?
It's a bit of an in-joke. Then again, one never knows, it could, in fact, be completely true....

Seeing as how this is supposed to be a 'grand adventure' on my 50th birthday, I started this plan by calling it the 'Last Great Adventure'. Now, I get it... I might live for 50 more years... But I do have some chronic health conditions and a pretty dismal family history, so even though the term was applied in jest, it's stuck... And become a bit more profound. So i'm keeping it. Who's to say?
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Update, so the carb rack is now out. I plan on replacing the fuel line and filter, as well as prepping and painting the (previously) silver parts of the motor before it goes back in.

I'll be using the Randakk Master Carb kit. This'll be the first carb rebuild I've done; anyone who's been through the same (No experience, Randakk Kit) have any words of wisdom or 'Gotchas' that I should be aware of?

Or just the usual, 'be thorough, take your time, and follow the directions exactly'...?

I'll be picking up a set of gauges for carb syncing along with the kit, i've seen some good videos that step you through the process, as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
So, UPDATE...

Nice look to the forum! I go away for a few days and this is what I come back to...

I've been working on the Carb rebuild along with some other things that work alongside, like replacing the fuel lines and filter and generally cleaning the top of the engine block. I'm using Randakk's for the Carb kit and Fuel filter, and i've been unsurprisingly very pleased. I will say, this is the first rebuild for this bike's carbs, and at 80k miles the inside of the carbs looked like they'd been on the Titanic. I'll have to post some before and after pics once i'm finally done... If you're on the fence about doing a carb rebuild on an old bike, I say jump in. Just be detail-oriented and methodical, take plenty of pics for reference (BEFORE you pull it apart)... And BE PATIENT, I'm a pretty patient guy and i've still managed to break a plastic part or two and strip a proprietary screw-head.

It is, however, satisfying work that will absolutely pay off.

I will say I might need some advice on some carb settings, such as setting float level and Idle screw, and rough 'balancing' the carbs on the bench, as is recommended.
 

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Glad you like the forum's new look.
it has been a bit of a surprise for a lot of folks.

one thing we miss right now, is the bike info under your Avatar.
so, will you tell us what bike you are working on?
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Glad you like the forum's new look.
it has been a bit of a surprise for a lot of folks.

one thing we miss right now, is the bike info under your Avatar.
so, will you tell us what bike you are working on?
That's odd, it was there on the old forum. And the info is in my profile, What am I missing here? It's an '86 GL1200a Aspencade.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Ah, I'll have to put it in my signature line, I guess. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
New Years Update!

SO, Carb rebuild went well, ended up replacing the idle jets (used real ones, not knock-offs). Carbs are synced, but I think my mix is still off--- I did the idle drop procedure a number of times, but could never get the rpms to drop before the idle screws were loose enough to practically come out. That said, that was also done without the air cleaner in place (which has made a small difference), so I'll be trying it again.

Anyway, it's running MUCH better and most importantly, doesn't pour gas out of the overflow tubes!!! I do seem to have an occasional drip from the area of the fuel pump, but it's oil, even though it has a fuel smell... Pretty sure that's from when the bike was hydrolocked and the oil was full of fuel, when I got it. Needs another oil change or two I'm sure, before that goes away completely... The smell, I mean.

During the lengthy rebuild, I also ended up installing new throttle and choke cable, vacuum lines, braided stainless fuel line and Randakk's washable sintered fuel filter... Also soldered my Stator wires to eliminate the burnt connector, AND replaced my grips with Avon Custom Contours. I also did quite a bit of cleanup and painting of things while it was apart. We're getting there!

My latest 'project' has been the brakes---I was to the point of considering a ride around the block, and found my rear caliper solidly clamped to the disc with an practically-empty master cylinder... And no pressure in the brake pedal. It would not release, even when I removed the hydraulic line... So I had to work it off with as little brute force as possible. I'm currently rebuilding the rear caliper, all hydraulic lines and pistons included. I'm using the BrakeCrafters kit, HEL braided stainless lines (even have a matching Clutch line ordered) and I'm replacing the pads with EBC organics. Will be following afterwards with doing the same to the fronts, even though the dedicated front brake is working 'fine' at this point. Linked front is free at least, operation is... Undetermined.

Was hoping to be able to ride the bike a little as I restored it, but looks like I'm going to be doing most all of the work before it will pass a preflight check... Eh, it was all in the cards at some point, anyway.

So, getting closer. Clutch master and slave rebuild along with new hydraulic line is next, followed by popping open the lower front panel of the engine to investigate why my gear sensor doesn't seem to be working. Any and all advice welcomed, as usual...
 

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Discussion Starter #37
That's sort of the plan!!!

Anyone out there know where the Gear position sensor connector is located? I know the switch itself is behind the lower main engine cover, but can't find info on the other end of the wire, anywhere...
 

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I remember a little bit about a red plug located up near top of radiator on the bike's left side. It pulled some of wires out … or pushed them out … upon reassembly as I put engine back in and later on test ride, bike didn't know when it was in some gear. I rechecked, found a terminal or two pushed out the back of plug housing. was my 1985 GL1200A … was in 1998.
 

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One thing I had issues with was coolant recovery tank cracks around metal insert where single bolt attached it. I finally used a longer bolt and a larger OD washer and JB-Weld under the washer against the plastic. I applied the JB-Weld & washer to tank alone holding it together with a greased bolt & nut (release agent) until JB-Weld was hard cured, then drilled out excess and re-installed on bike and it seemed to work for many years. By then, I was on my second tank at least.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Many thanks!!! Will definitely check those out.
 
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