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Got my carbs re-installed yesterday, started and sounded fairly good but discovered a dad burn fuel leak. After 15 min of looking, and starting it several times, I have discovered that the Aluminum fuel tube is leaking between # 1 and # 3, or more specifically, where it fits into # 1.
A am just assuming that this means re-remove rack, but I wanted to see if anyone had any magic for this problem FIRST ! And actually, I am not NEARLY as apprehensive about it this time,,,, just upset that I'm not riding.
Thank You so much to everyone whom coached me through it the first time, I believe that it was a successful re-build with the exception of the leak.

Be Blessed
Steve-O

It's ALMOST Miller Time :blackstuff:
 

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...
 

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Yes, I replaced both o-rings,,, must have pinched one putting it back together,
it is a Bugger to try and get all 3 tubes into BOTH carbs with only 2 hands, might ought to ask for some help from a family member This time !!

Thank You
Steve-O

Unless there is a Trick to that too !!
 

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I had a leak in the same area on my '85. Fuel was flowing out of the T in the picture above. I didn't do anything with the tube or the T where it goes in the carbs. I cleaned up a sticking float needle and replaced the crush washers under the float seat which didn't look very good. Took care of the problem. Actually, I didn't separate the carb bodies so those tubes weren't disturbed.

Lyle
 

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....you could spray them (do both sides of the tube) with PB Blaster and let them soak for a few minutes, then gently try and rotatethe tubein the housings. Any PB that may get past the rubber will burn through harmlessly, and it might work... ???

It may not have seated all the way. I'd sure try that to avoid pulling the rack, but shortcuts rarely work-out for the better. Won't know 'til you try though.

:)
 

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I didn't know that fuel went through the tubes with the T's , I guess that I assumed that the only one carrying fuel was the aluminum tube, and thinking that the 2 plastic tubes were for Air or Vacuum,,,HOWEVER, I readily admit to being an Amateur !

Thank You for the Help

Steve-O

I WANT TO GO CRUISING !!! :hoppingmad::hoppingmad::hoppingmad::hoppingmad::hoppingmad:

By the way,, what is PB Blaster,, do auto part stores have it ?
 

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b679995 wrote:
...By the way,, what is PB Blaster,, do auto part stores have it ?
It's similar to WD-40 but it's a catalyst though. Any good auto parts or even walmart has it.
 

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b679995,

One of the Ts is a vacuum line, the one in the middle in the image above. The other appears to be just an overflow. Nothing is connected to it. It was this one, with the larger branch, that was spewing out fuel. All three of the tubes are higher than the fuel level in the carburetor. That's why I concluded that it was leaking internally. Maybe my logic was flawed but it turned out to be the correct diagnosis.

Lyle
 

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WOOT!!! I'm glad to see that you got it on - even if you have to take it off one more time.

Yeah - you're not as aprehensive after the first time, are you???

:)
 

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Thanks Rusty, the worst thing about taking it back off is the delay in riding, you should have seen me Grin when that sucker fired, and it sounded pretty good for not being synced or adjusted yet, WOW, what a feeling !!

Thanks to all that helped
Steve-O
 

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...the aluminum tube is what I (we) are talking about. The T'd pieces are just there from where I pulled the pic off of another site. They're vac lines only, ...disregard them for the purpose of the thread. It was a quick pic that I should've cropped better...

I could've just said, "...replace the O-rings" I suppose. ;)

:byebye:
 

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Oh That's OK, I knew which one you meant, someone else on the forum told me that the metal one was the fuel line, AND the only one that it didn't matter if you got the ends swapped when re-assembling,, I DO appreciate the help, and I am going to try that PB Blaster before I remove them again, HOWEVER, I never put all of the air filter assembly back on yet, I'll bet that I can have the rack back off in 30 min.
I am obliged to everyone,, Thanks again

Blessings
Steve-O

It won't be long now before :action: and the head movement is not peddling, it's rocking to some CLASSIC Rock !!!! 60s and 70s
 

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The PB creeps better than WD-40. It gets into places that WD won't. Its cost is a little more, but its a different product. It's great for swelling-up used gaskets too.

:)


Edit: ...an exaple of PB creep: I have the factory horns still on my '78 GL. They look beautiful, and are... Factory. Well, when I bought the bike, the right side would not work. Just a "click" from inside when the horn button was depressed, nothing more. The left side worked fine. So I cut the tip of the little red extension tube that comes with the can of PB that's meant for the spray nozzle at a sharp angle, pierced through the rubber grommet where the wires come through and out of the horn body, and sprayed 3 one-second shots in there. I let it sit for two days and it works good as new. The tone, pitch and level sound just as the left side. The entire body of the horn was covered in film of the PB...
 

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Sounds like some good stuff to have around, I have an O'reilly's Auto Parts about a mile away, I will hit them while I'm out to go to the store,,, Kill 2 Birds


Blessings
Steve-O (b679995)

PS, I don't suppose there is some way to check to see if I have the leak fixed, IF I have to take them off, like compressed air ? That might be a Time Saver !!
 

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With the rack out of the bike and on a up-side-down bucket, and the fuel inlet hose connected... try to start it to pressurize the bowls.

****make sure the kill switch is in the off position and the exhaust is cold****

...have a set of rags underneath the bucket to catch any fuel that may pass through carbs.Suspect none initially topass through as there is no vacuum. It'll take quite few revolutions to get the bowls full. This is where electric pumps come in handy versus the mechanical ones. You can look into the throats and see the fuel pooling to the point of running out when they're full. Get all four full and try to note when you see fuel in each throat (easier said than done).

Get the rack sitting as level as you can on that bucket for any measurement to be worth pursuing though...
 
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