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    [align=right]HelloEveryone, Iposted this at another site with the help of a fellow Winger and from a gentleman here!! { THIS TILT-SWITCH IS A SUZUKITL1000 or GSXR 600-750 } I hope this post helps someone, as itwill me. I plan on installing this on my bikein the near future! I have had the opportunity to discuss with Alb about his Tilt-Switch. He has given me some guidance as how to wire it, so we came up with the following wiring diagram. I was also able to put together a "Bench Test", mounted on a piece of plywood to see it working!!
    Just some more info,.... I was discussing with a gentleman formhere about getting power from the black/white coil wire but he suggested using a relay because if not it might draw to much voltage from the coils. So between Mr. Wittman's wiring diagrahm for the fuel pump using a 5pin relay, and the wiring diagrahm for a 4 pin, I was able to come up with a wiring diagrahm showing strictly powering the 4pin acting as a switch to power the 5pin turning on the fuel pump. I tried to show in the wiring diagram that you could wire the 4pin and 5pin separetly using 2 5-amp fuses or together just using one 5-amp fuse. :waving:Later Bob

    "Use At Your Own Risk, I'm Not Responsible" So Here's the Wiring Diagram and some pictures taken Using A 12v. Bulb as the Fuel Pump...... This Shows Power Pump "On" (light acts as the pump).Tilt Switch pointedLeft "OFF"Tilt Switch centered "ON"
    Tilt Switch pointed Right "OFF" Tilt Switch centered "ON"[/align]
 

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I'malso using a Facet Electric Fuel Pump model 754a 2-4lbs or use equivalent. :waving:Bob
 

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Good job. We need to get a moderator to put it in the tech reference posts.
 

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Thanks Dave for the heads up.

I will leave it here for all to see, when it slides down off this page, will move it to the FAQ Forum.

Great detail on this posting Bob. Thanks for showing us your hard earned knowledge.
 

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Thanks should also go to Dave0430 who gave me the wiring tip on the 4-pin relay & Alb Wittmann from the NGW site who had this type of Tilt-Switch and a wiring diagram only using a 5-pin relay. I took the both wiring diagrams and tweaked them where you can disable the fuel pump by the kill switch. This relieves a big pull from the coils but just powers the 4-pin which in turn power the 5-pin relaythru pin-87a thus powering the fuel pump. The Tilt-Switch is activated when the bike is tipped over to thedegree of taking the power frompin 87a and transfer it to pin-87 which disables the fuel pump. 87-pinwill be live so this needs to be capped so it will not ground to anything. Next will be installation on my 81 GL-1100. I will try to show the step of the installation,...... Enjoy and I hope this will help someone.:waving:Bob
 

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I see something I would change on that Bob. I'll PM you about it.
Also needs to be mentioned the tilt switch is normally open, it powers the 5 pin relay to turn it off when tilted.
 

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Yes Dave your right, the 5-pin relaywill be a live pin 87a when bike falls over but this is the only way the tilt switch will work to directly shut off the power to the fuel pump. Bike fallen over will take the power from 87 and switch it to 87a still live but powering nothing but itself, that's why it needs to be capped. I know I ran power from the battery if a person wants but I will be powering mine from the accessory side so when the ignition is off, everything is off. Ismy explanationwhat you where referring to Dave?;)Thanks for pointing that out,:applause: Bob
 

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Not to playdevil's advocate here, but if you'd rather use a Honda BAS (like the 1500) you could work something a bit less complex...(as shown)

:readit:

I like the safe thoguhts there badorderbob :claps:Great thread!
 

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It's my turn to play devils advocate:ROFL:and I'm not trying to sound smart but I gotta ask,.......Do you think it will work?,......Just being a back yard fixer, I am pretty lost at times when it comes to this stuff:shock:!! It only took about 3 weeks to come up with what I have and I do like yours!!!:applause:I will have to give yours a shot! Do you think there won't be to much of a draw from wiring it thru the coil/kill switch? That's why I put the extra 4-pin relay in to take the load off the coils. :?I'm open to all suggestions and comments!!! Thanks You Little Devil,:weightlifter:Bob
 

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The BAS draws next to nothing (less than an Amp) -- you really don't even need a seperate power-source there at the kill switch & coil, but it's a handy way to switch the load with the key-switch while providing max-current (direct to battery) to the pump.
 

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Basically there is a curved section inside the unit the centre section of which is insulated. Then as you get further up the curve it becomes exposed brass which is one connection and then there is a circle of brass that surrounds the end piece. The two halves are electrically conected by a thick brass washer that is free to slide along the curve. It is VERY well made and comes with its own special rubber sealing gasket and a mounting rubber with the word 'UPPER' written on it so that there can be no mistake! ( This was the discription of the workings by my friend Alb ),............. Hope this enlightens the working of the "Tilt-Switch" I'm using!!:weightlifter:Bob
 

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I like the BAS idea myself but Bob seeming to be a bit of a tinkerer is welcome to come up with his own ideas, nothing wrong with that at all and it might be useful information for some other application as well. For instance the 87 terminal could be used to activate 4 way flashers if the bike did tip over or crashed (God forbid).
 

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I think it's nice to see others put in their comments, this shows the need when planning to do a conversion like mine;)!! Now as just my own "Tinkerers' Observation", testing,and discussing with a fellow Co-Conspirator about the Honda BASer design, I have questioned and read some posts about the reliability of this switch. Now keep in mind I'm not against THE DEVIL"S wiring design but in question of the switch. As a matter of fact after I found that the BAS was one of the switches I tested and under T.O., I found the switch did work, but not to my likings.For example, when put in an angle, to trigger the fuel pump, to shut it off, it was very slow in doing so. Now to resetthe power, I had to turn the poweroff to reset it. Whichwas no big deal but sometimes(my BAS) would not reset. After a few dozen tests on my BASer, she failed/burnt and crashed under my own hands,......I may have wired it wrong on the last try:cheesygrin:!! Since the BASer died, I did an autopsy on it to find there were fragile diodes in it, a metal contact ball,and oil:shock:!! My T.O. was that maybe the oil slowed the ball down to make contact to shut the pump off.My T.O. thinking this is a fragile switch to some degree, not only because if you wire it wrong, you burn one of the diodes and your out a switch:byebye:, ask me how I know. And last if you look at the schematic, when they use the BASer, there is a need for a relay to power it. No big deal just thought I'd throw that tidbit in:cheesygrin:!! Now to clarify one thing, I like the simplicity in the Great Wiring Diagram and appreciate the contribution but I do worry about the reliability of the BAS switch,:)! These are my own Tinkerers Observations and please take it in the right way!! If it will work for you,Great:applause:!! I just had to share what I found out about the switch using my T.O. :waving:Later Bob
 

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I think you misunderstand the BAS diagram slightly, the relay does not power the BAS, the BAS provides ground for the relay. Why they designed it like that I assume is so it will not simply reset when the bike is righted again but it is still a little overcomplicated.
The Ford roll over switch I used on Lopeha's electric pump seems the way to go. Simple design and it also will not reset itself, it has a button on top that has to be pushed to reset it.
 

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The next few steps in the Tilt-SWitch is installation was figuring out where to put eveything. :?I wanted to keep everything together, so I put them on a piece of aluminum plate I had. I used double-backed tape on the relays and made a bracket for the T-Switch.Having relaysockets (whatever ya call them)came in very handy matching where everthing went on the wiring diagram. I dedcided to put the T-Switch bracket on the cross support below the fuse block. This made itnice and handy to get power from the fuse panel and less wiring all over the place. Trying to get the bracket level was a litte hard but was accomplished. Once the bracket mounting was done, I did a Test-Run to see if everything work like it did on the Board-Test,...... Success:thumbsup:!!!
 

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Did a TESTafter everything wired,.....it works so far,...:cheesygrin: (I had to cover up the bulb it was so bright for the picture.) The next step will be mounting the fuel pump, wire to the B/W coil wire, the pump, thenshould be good to "GO"!!!:action:
 

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Good job Bob.:claps:
 
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