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I am doing the timing belts on my 1984 1200A and Member OCTANE has an Great
How to on the FAQ forum but I have a question. It says that after you have the new belts on and tensioners on but not tightened to put a wrench on the left hand (from setting on bike) cam pully bolt and turn counter clockwise to slack the belt at the tensioner thus letting the spring make more tension.
Well unless the camshaft pully bolts are left hand threaded, I don't feel comfortable putting pressure counter clockwise on the cam pully bolt. I want to know if you can get enough slack to let the spring tension the belt by turning the cam pully by hand?
Or am I making a mountain out of a mole hill.
I thank everyone for their input !!

Steve-O b679995
 

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mountain = mole hill. if you don't do as suggested your valve timing on the left hand cylinders can be as much as 1 1/2 teeth out. You could try by hand but, from experience, the back pressure from the cams is a little to much to do it this way. It's unlikely that the bolt will undo, as the force used isn't that great.
The trick is to apply the tension so the timing marks line up when the belt is fully tensioned by the idler pulley.
 

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Dang JOHNO
, now you have REALLY got me thinking,,,, If I apply ANY pressure to the pully that is going to get the timing marks off, Also you may be able to tell me, when T-! is up. should BOTH Cam marks line up with the casing marks, because my Right side (setting on the bike) is OFF by at least 1 tooth,,, maybe 2, annd that belt has at least 1 inch slack, which I KNOW is not right, I think Exavid quoted 1/8 - 3/16 slack with 4.4lb of pressure.
I certainly appreciate your help.

Blessings
Steve-O
 

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1993 gl1500, 1976 gl1000
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Just responding to the amount of slack. I think you might want to check to be sure. I have read and heard that 1/4 each direction 1/2 total is recommended. 1/8 might be too tight.
 

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It has been a while since I changed the belts, and my manuals are not with me at the moment, but I seem to remember ensuring the crank is on the correct timing marks, then setting the left cylinder (right hand as you look from the front) belt and idler so that the marks remained aligned, a bit fiddly but not to bad. The belt tension I shall have to look up, but if it is too tight the belts will whine and fail early.
with the left valve timing done, the right side is a bit harder and three hands are needed ! the jobs done in the same manner, but anticlockwise pressure is needed on the cam pulley to hold it in place while the idler and belt tension are set.
Once done check all marks are aligned then carefully complete two full revolutions of the engine by hand/socket, stop and investigate if there is any unexpected resistance. If all ok check the bolts are torqued to the correct setting and finish up.
I found I had to rebalance the carbs afterwards as the PO had the valve timing wrong.......
 
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