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Discussion Starter #1
How do I put this thing on so I'm firing in time?
Points are gapped correctly, but with starter fluid I'm only having a bit of backfire with no start.

77 Goldwing 1000
 

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Do you mean the ignition cam into the advancer unit or the advancer unit to themain cam?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The advancer unit itself, I must have installed it incorrectly. Guide says 5° btdc, that's cylinder number 1 right?
 

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I used a voltmeter when I had a 1000,just hook to points and ground and rotate the engine till the needle move,,if it’s off the mark just adjust the points till it right on the mark,over the years things change and wear so it might set on factory specs
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I don't even pretend to begin to understand how that process functions. Points are new, and I seen to remember the advance timing thing only going on one way
 

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If you disassembled the advancer you may have the cam on 180 degrees off.
Did you use the marks under the cap by the left rear carb?

Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk
 

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It should look something like this.
gl1000 timing.jpg
 

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I always used to set points with a transister radio placed under bike turned on. When I heard a pop on the radio that is where points were opening.
Is this a Gold Wing that has not been run in awhile? Do you have fresh gas? How old are the cam belts? I would take cam belt covers off to be sure there is no damaged cam belt if we are talking about a bike not run in awhile. Also, If bike has sat for awhile there may be carb issues..
gumbyredd
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I seemingly remember there being a notch, sort of the same function of a keyway on the timing advance thing, leading me to believe it was idiot proof during installation
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Bros I just need a rundown of how the breaker plate and points need to be, set gap from F position on #1, but on the pass out number two the gap is way larger, what is being done wrong?
 

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Bros I just need a rundown of how the breaker plate and points need to be, set gap from F position on #1, but on the pass out number two the gap is way larger, what is being done wrong?
The points have to be set separately, both the gap and the timing. See the picture in post #7.
 

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The gap is set with the lobe on the cam holding the points the farthest open. This position is checked by eye. Lining up the F1 mark should indicate the points are just opening. This when it sparks. If the gap is correct and the timing is off, rotate the points to get proper timing. Each set of points are set individually. Are you using a test light? Did it run before you started this procedure?
David
 

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1993 gl1500, 1976 gl1000
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Thank you, good article.
**
. They were not created very precisely by the factory and amount to an unnecessary distraction. Just aim for the highest point on the cam lobes and then set the points.
****

This is for the gap of .016".

David
 

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You can only check the advance with a timing light and the special window that replaces the plug. Marking the F mark with a black marker helps to see it.

Mark the advance marks also with the black marker.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I set them, the bike has not run on points since I've bought it, I may try the electro ignition that came with it if I don't have this started tomorrow. I did the gap n made sure when one point is open, the other is closed for each respective mark (#1 & #2). Still hasn't started, should I aim for dead on balls at the F line or in-between the F and TDC?
You can only check the advance with a timing light and the special window that replaces the plug. Marking the F mark with a black marker helps to see it.

Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk
So, then your Gold Wing was running fairly well just before you adjusted the points?
gumbyredd
Long story short, bought a lemon. It has electro ignition and said it was only a dead battery with a salvage title, wasn't in any condition to pass inspection, ghetto hard wired just to function, no charging system or lights. Paid a shop to rewire, I swapped back to points thinking that'd be easier, clearly wrong since it's not starting. Now I have lights and charging system (presumably charging system once it'll start). I'm trying to figure out why it's not starting, I've done what I've mentioned above, although upon inspection one float bowl was nasty nasty, but did have cleaner run thru everything seemingly with ease, so I think somehow my work on the points is incorrect. If somebody has a clear, distinct and precise direction on how this should be set up, that's be swell, since my backup transportation to work has also died. The service manual is a bit confusing on the matter
 

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Squirt some starting fluid or flammable carb cleaner in the air box/carburetor see if it pops. If so, the carbs need disassembled and cleaned

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I would pull the plugs, inspect them, and crank the engine with the plugs out of the engine installed on the end of the wires touching ground. Crank the engine and see if all 4 are sparking. If the plugs look sooty or black, or wet, replace them and do the crank test again. Don't proceed until you have spark on all 4 plugs.

David
 
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