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Discussion Starter #21
Squirt some starting fluid or flammable carb cleaner in the air box/carburetor see if it pops. If so, the carbs need disassembled and cleaned

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I've done starter fluid, it was backfiring before, now it's just cranking over. I'll try to upload pics to have you guys double check my work
 

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Discussion Starter #22
So here's the issue, on the #1 flywheel mark, I'll gap the left point to spec, but once I turn the flywheel to #2 they both open, if on #2 and I close the gap on the left point, the left point also then doesn't open when I slide back around to #1. How do I fix this issue?
 

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Look at the points. Turn the crank so the gap is the largest. Set the gap. Do the same foe the other set.
With plugs out, check for spark.
 

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So here's the issue, on the #1 flywheel mark, I'll gap the left point to spec, but once I turn the flywheel to #2 they both open, if on #2 and I close the gap on the left point, the left point also then doesn't open when I slide back around to #1. How do I fix this issue?
You do not gap the points at the firing mark. Turn the engine so you see the rubbing block of the points on the highest part of the cam, set the gap there. Then set the timing by rotating the whole plate for the left points and the sub plate for the right.
 

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Look at the points. Turn the crank so the gap is the largest. Set the gap. Do the same foe the other set.
With plugs out, check for spark.
We were typing at the same time.
 

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Yes, Davd0430 we were.

Kool Range, The spark happens when the points open. They should open at the F mark or really close to it for the bike to run.
You set the gap of .016" when the points are most open, It does not matter where the F mark is, or anything else. Just set the points so the largest gap is .016" like in the book. Do both sets, One set has nothing to do with the other.

Once the gap is set, the points SHOULD open around the F mark on the flywheel.

If the points are clean and gapped right, you should have spark on all 4 spark plugs.

Once you have spark, you can fire the bike up to see it work, It still needs to be timed.

In this case, lets take it one step at a time.

I would like to hear the bike run. Then we can time it.

David
 

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Discussion Starter #27
The bike cranks over, but doesn't start currently because of the points being out of time and/or the carb bring clogged up. A carb rebuild kit is on the way but I'm trying to solve this issue first. I rotated the breaker plate clockwise and stopped both of the points opening on the #2 flywheel mark. Only one is supposed to be open at once correct?

Now hear me out: because I know the bike has run with the belt and internals as they are, apart from having the electro ignition that I also didn't feel like adding the extra cost from the shop the did the stock wiring (literally just plugged everything in and didn't route for 650$ or so) the timing advancer literally only goes on the cam end one way because of the keyway esq notch, so therefore why would the F mark not be where the highest point on the cam would be?
 

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Points close, current flows through the coil. A magnetic field is created.
Points open, the magnetic field falls. It makes a spark.

The spark should happen at the F mark. SO the points JUST OPEN at the F mark. Or just start to open.

I have asked do you have spark with the plugs out and hooked up to the wires sitting on ground?

The F mark is for the spark plug to fire. It has nothing to do with setting the gap. Set the gap at the widest opening of the points when you turn the crank. The lobe on the cam will be right at the rubbing block of the points. Points will be open as far as they can be at this spot. Set the gap to .016" do the same for the other set. ONCE this is done, check for spark with the plugs out and hooked up to the coil wires and resting on ground (the metal part of the engine).

If you have spark on all plugs, put them in the engine, hook up the spark plug wires, and give it a shot of ether and crank it. It should at least putt and fire.

Once we get to there, then we will time it.

I agree. One thing at a time. Forget the carbs until you get the ignition figured out. I would not worry about the belts and cam timing right now, you are probably right they are fine.
 

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I disagree on not worrying about cam belts. I would take cam belt covers off for belt inspection, and timing marks check anyway. Starting fluid, plus backfiring,, plus old cam belts,, could spell bent valves. Not a time to huury the job. .
gumbyredd.
 

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You can easily get the left belt cover off without removing anything else to inspect the belt condition.

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The bike cranks over, but doesn't start currently because of the points being out of time and/or the carb bring clogged up. A carb rebuild kit is on the way but I'm trying to solve this issue first. I rotated the breaker plate clockwise and stopped both of the points opening on the #2 flywheel mark. Only one is supposed to be open at once correct?

Now hear me out: because I know the bike has run with the belt and internals as they are, apart from having the electro ignition that I also didn't feel like adding the extra cost from the shop the did the stock wiring (literally just plugged everything in and didn't route for 650$ or so) the timing advancer literally only goes on the cam end one way because of the keyway esq notch, so therefore why would the F mark not be where the highest point on the cam would be?
Kool,
You are stuck on one thought and blocking out what you need to hear most.

Forget about lining up the flywheel and advance and anything else. None of those things will keep it from running. They are used to tune the engine. What you need to do is understand how to adjust the point gap.

You have never been close to the right technique. It is a 2 step process for each cylinder.
I can't seem to find a real good picture but I found the best I could. Then I used my poor drawing to show what I wanted to illustrate.

What you need to know is that the points rub block rubs against a shaft that is not round but cam shaped. It has a bump or hill built in too it.

Look at your bike and find the top of the bump or hill. The highest point of the bump or hill must align with the rub block on the points. Rotate the engine until the rub point is aligned with the bump. (hill- cam) Once you have the rub block on top of the hill adjust that set of points.

Now you are half done as you need to do this to the other set. Turn the engine until the bump- hill align with the rub block 0n the other set of points. When the other set is aligned properly adjust the gap.

Regardless of the other adjustments you should be able to start the engine now.
Make sure you have the cover on the sight glass so you do not throw oil all over the place.

So in a nutshell. turn the engine until the rub block on the points is aligned with the highest point on the distributor cam. Then adjust/

Simple as that. Oh, don't forget to do it once for each set of point. The high points (hills) will not be near as defined as the picture.

The picture shows 4 cam lobes (bumps) You will only have one or two. I can't remember.
The black dot shows the rub block while the red dot shows the top of the cam lobe. The illustrations shows only one set of points where you will have to do the process twice. Once for each set of points.

324355
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Pops, won't start. Any pic of how the breaker plate is supposed to be aligned? I understand how to adjust point gap at this junction, bike still still not start, only a backfire occasionally
 

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Discussion Starter #34
The high points of the cam is how I've been adjusting the points since I've been trying this. I understand the concept of how to set gap but I don't understand why it won't start according to instruction.
 

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The high points of the cam is how I've been adjusting the points since I've been trying this. I understand the concept of how to set gap but I don't understand why it won't start according to instruction.
It doesn't seem you do understand. Above you said you had been adjusting the gap at the F mark, which if you do the points will never close & they do have to close to work.
 
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Pops, won't start. Any pic of how the breaker plate is supposed to be aligned?
The picture in post #7 shows how it should be, unless you are ignoring my posts.
 
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Pops, won't start. Any pic of how the breaker plate is supposed to be aligned? I understand how to adjust point gap at this junction, bike still still not start, only a backfire occasionally
Didn't I read somewhere that you are converting this bike back to Points from electronic ignition?

If it just pops but not trying to start, you might have the two wires to the sets of points crossed. You can either try switching the two wires at the points, or maybe easier if you don't have the rubber sparkplug boots holding the plug caps, simply swap the sparkplug wires on each side, front-to-back, back-to-front.

Try that and see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Wires done by a professional shop, spark on all four plugs, gaps adjusted at high point of lobes, bike still does not start.
 
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