[redwing52]

So, does it start or not? Carbs do make a sucking sound, especially with the air filter off. It is the air being drawn into the engine.

I feel bad for you and wish I could do more but without experience it is like trying to teach surgery over the internet.

Here is one thought that might help just a little related to timing. As simple as I can think of explaining it.
If you hook one end of your test light to the battery and the other end to the yellow wire for the points. Now rotate the engine until the light is off or continue rotating the engine with the light off. Just keep going and going until the light comes on then STOP!! Again in other words.....With the test light connected to the yellow wire and positive battery rotate the engine clockwise (Right or tight) until the light first lights then STOP!!
Now check the flywheel to see if F1 is aligned in the flywheel window.. When the test light first comes ON the flywheel should read F1 near perfectly. Does it??? Answer then check back .for help how to make it right.

OK....if you managed to get through all that is listed above only do one thing. Switch the test light from the yellow wire to the blue wire. Repeat everything again but this time when the test light comes on look at the flywheel. It should be on F2. Remember last ime when you tested the yellow it had to be on F1 now on the blue wire yoou should see F2 in the flywheel window. Is F2 aligned???? Check back.

 

[Kool Ranqe]

Carb is the issue, the idle air screws aren't affecting anything, I found same gas leakage from the day before. They need rebuilding and I need another screw for the air cutoff valve(one seems to not seat/seal it and is different size and material), which could be that suction noise I mentioned. I also need a link of where I can buy the intake manifold bolts cuz I broke one off.

 

[Kool Ranqe]

Carb is the issue, the idle air screws aren't affecting anything, I found same gas leakage from the day before. They need rebuilding and I need another screw for the air cutoff valve(one seems to not seat/seal it and is different size and material), which could be that suction noise I mentioned. I also need a link of where I can buy the intake manifold bolts cuz I broke one off.

Ps: there's air and fuel leakage. I can dump gas into carb, it'll start. Engine and timing OK.

 

[redwing52]

Got double post somehow???

 

[redwing52]

Be sure you are getting fuel to the carbs, Fuel filter, lines and tank in good shape????? Petcock turned on and clean???? Pretty unusual that carbs are so bad the bike won't run after you had it going once yesterday. Petcock on and not plugged???

 

[Cycle junkie]

So here's the issue, on the #1 flywheel mark, I'll gap the left point to spec, but once I turn the flywheel to #2 they both open, if on #2 and I close the gap on the left point, the left point also then doesn't open when I slide back around to #1. How do I fix this issue?

If I'm reading right what you are doing, don't touch the left points on the #2 mark.
Left points are set at the #1 mark, right points are set at the # 2 mark.

Also, don't confuse the #2 firing position with the # 2 cylinder.
The left points fire #1 and 2, right points fire # 3 and 4.
Firing order is 1-3-2-4.
Once you set the points on position 1, turn the engine to position 2, and set the right points. Don't touch left points at position 2.

The points MUST be at the high point on the cam to set the gap. This oopsy is more common than you think. If the points are set at the low point, they will never close. After gapping both, turn the engine by hand on the alternator bolt to insure both sets of points are closing. When they open is when you get spark. Good luck.

 

[DaveO430]

Carb is the issue, the idle air screws aren't affecting anything, I found same gas leakage from the day before. They need rebuilding and I need another screw for the air cutoff valve(one seems to not seat/seal it and is different size and material), which could be that suction noise I mentioned. I also need a link of where I can buy the intake manifold bolts cuz I broke one off.

Do not attempt to do the carb rebuild yourself unless you completely understand how they work and what needs to be done and by no means use aftermarket parts except the Randakk kit. You will only be doing it over and over if you don't.
For the screws take 1 to your local hardware store and get something that matches length, diameter and thread pitch.