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I just did this yesterday. You've already got the covers off, so this should be easy.

On the left side of the engine, similar to the position of the oil fill plug on the right side, but a bit farther in, you'll find a round blank with a slot in it for a screwdriver. Remove this, so you can view the flywheel timing marks.

Remove the spark plugs so that you can rotate the engine without having to fight against the compression strokes.

Rotate the engine so that the two timing marks one the cam pulleys are lined up withe marks at the edge of the casing, and the wheels are facing "up". The mark on the flywheel should show "T1" with a line that lines up with the mark on the casing. If not, rotate it around again.

Loosen the four bolts holding the two tensioners. Move the tensioners away from the belts to loosen them as much as possible, then temporarily tighten one bolt on each one to hold them in the loose position.

Pull the right belt off, then the left belt.

Making sure the flywheel is still at the T1 mark, and the left cam pulley is still lined up with its mark, slip the new left belt on both pulleys, and OVER the tensioner, making sure the belt is tight on the bottom. Check the pulley and flywheel marks again, then slip the belt over the tensioner so that it runs UNDER it. Loosen the tensioner bolt you tightened temporarily and let the spring tension the belt. Tighten both tensioner bolts.

Making sure the flywheel is still at the T1 mark, and the right cam pulley is still lined up with its mark, slip the new right belt on both pulleys, and UNDER the tensioner, making sure the belt is tight on the top. Check the pulley and flywheel marks again, then slip the belt over the tensioner so that it runs OVER it. Loosen the tensioner bolt you tightened temporarily and let the spring tension the belt. Tighten both tensioner bolts.

Check the pulley marks and the T1 marks again to make sure everything is right, then start it up and make sure it runs right!

Good luck!
 

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I just left it in 5th gear and used the back wheel to rotate the engine, quick and easier than getting to the alternator bolt. Once the belts were off, it was actually quite easy to rotate the engine using the main crank belt pulley.

I left the radiator on, which is why it took me 2 hours instead of 45 minutes - but I'm glad I did, I really didn't want the mess of dripping coolant everywhere, then have to refill it again.

Another tip: If you are going to leave the radiator on, and plan to change your oil anytime soon, do it at the same time. If you take the oil filter housing off, it makes it quite a bit easier to get at the lower (right) tensioner pulley bolts.
 
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