Kinda depends on your courage. I'd want to go with new, but they run around $80 a pop. Does anyone know what the difference between the tensioners on the various models? The 1200 and 1500 use the same ones but I don't have any info on earlier models. Pretty likely they are all the same. I have a pair from my 1500, I just changed them because they had 90,000 miles on them but they didn't seem any looser than the new ones I put in, sounded the same when spun too. If someone wants to take a chance or needs them but doesn't have the cash handy, you are welcome to these for the cost of mailing.If my cam belt tensioners need replacing, is it ok to find a decent set of used ones, or do i have to buy new?
Exavid, if you loosen the holding bolts the pulleys will travel freely up and down (pivoting at one end) and have spring tension on them. The manual says proper tension is accomplished using just the spring, no further effort is required and if you do pry on the tensioner you will end up with worn pulleys/belts (maybe even broken) and tensioners. :waving:You got it right mag, except the tensioners (adjusters) aren't quite spring loaded since both ends of the mounting brackets of the tensioners and bolted down. I'm not all that sure what the purpose of the springs are since by themselves they don't provide the tension called for in the Honda or Clymer manual. If you just let the tensioners set the belt tension by themselves at least on my 1200 and my 1500 the belts end up a bit too loose.
On my 1200 and my 1500 when I allowed the springs to set the tension it left the belts too loose. To get anywhere near the slack called for in the manual it was necessary to increase the tension on the belts by tightening the bolts slightly and gently prying up (and down) the tensioners. I've since had an opportunity to recheck the tension on my 1500's belts and it's just about the 1/4" slack with 4.4lbs pressure.Exavid, if you loosen the holding bolts the pulleys will travel freely up and down (pivoting at one end) and have spring tension on them. The manual says proper tension is accomplished using just the spring, no further effort is required and if you do pry on the tensioner you will end up with worn pulleys/belts (maybe even broken) and tensioners. :waving:
YOu did it the way I did and I believe this is correct. To allow the cam to pull in the other direction will do two things... (1) give belts that are loose and (2) give belts that are different tension on each side (The cam tends to rotate more on the1/3 side at T1). There are other ways to check, but it sounds like yours should be okay... SDB/Jim.....My manual discusses slightly rotating each cam in the opposite direction to allow slack in the belts where the spring adjusters take up the extra slack. My question is do I hold the cam and then tighten the adjusters; or do I release the cam and then tighten the adjusters? I did the first, and now I'm second guessing my action.....