[kuckphoto]

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I'm having a bear of a time getting these timing belts onto the pulleys without changing the position of the pulley's. Well actually, I'm trying not to pry them and having no luck. So to all you guys that have experienced this before, what's the secret. The Clymer manual says not to pry on it, then says to install it. I've been all over this site and the web and haven't found any tips on this either. Anyway I look to you guys for some enlightenment.

Shawn

 

[k1w1t1m]

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You have loosened the tensioners?

 

[RB]

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The right one 2/4 side should stay in place w/o any problems..if not something is wrong..the left one 1/3 side, put the belt over the pulley, then put a wrench on the cam nut and turn the cam until it lines up should just take a little movement..then tie the wrench to the frame's down tube to hold it in place..the left cam is under pressure from the tappets..any way once one the belt is on and not slipping of the clogs release the wrench. The right side should be OK slack wise so tighten down the tensioner bolt and then rotate the crank until the right side tightens up 180n or 360 I forget..then tighten that tensioner.

Note do not apply pressure to the tensioners to get the right slack let them seat themselves...

Read this link for a full HOw to..

http://www.nakedgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3544

 

[plainmech]

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http://goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum9/17422.html this should help if link doesn't work just go to reference faq and scroll down to timing belt change:action::waving:

 

[kuckphoto]

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Yep the tensioners are loosened, I managed to get the back one on, but the pulley had move so I had to take it back off. The frustrations mounting so I'm gonna walk away for a while.

 

[tubabone]

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when do these belts need to be changed?
k

 

[plainmech]

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not sure what the manual says but as i didn't know history of bike i went ahead and did it. book calls out insp. at certain mileage or time, but by the time you get to insp. it your almost done with change. damn cheap insurance, close tolerance engine and broken timing belt will ruin your day:action::waving:

 

[tubabone]

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any idea of a cost since i will nto be doing itmyself.
k

 

[plainmech]

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belts are much cheaper than vales pistons ect.:cheeky1::cheeky1::cheeky1: if you go to reference and faq they have auto p/n cross that works as honda wants 1arm and a nut:cheeky1: good belts, have to add when i did mine i had approx. 1-1.5" play on belt, not good:cheeky1::action::waving:

 

[Conley]

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I just paid $20 a piece at NAPA auto parts for the belts.

Here are some pix of my alternator conversion with the timing covers polished.

http://www.gl1200goldwings.com/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=6861

The timing belts were real easy once the tensioners were fully loose.

 

[Rudy]

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tubabone wrote:

any idea of a cost since i will nto be doing itmyself.
k

Belts will run about $60 / pair at NAPA.

Read up on the procedure here
http://goldwingtech.info

Since you are doing a 1500

 

[plainmech]

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Conley wrote:

I just paid $20 a piece at NAPA auto parts for the belts.

Here are some pix of my alternator conversion with the timing covers polished.

http://www.gl1200goldwings.com/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=6861

The timing belts were real easy once the tensioners were fully loose.

thays purdy what say you pop over for a beer or 12 and polish mine, i even have em off:cheeky1::cheeky1::cheeky1::waving: kidding they do look nice though

 

[Conley]

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How far are you from Houston?

 

[plainmech]

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think about three hours i'm 15mi. s. of waco

 

[Conley]

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I'll be gettin out a bit more in the next few weeks, you never know.



Believe it or not, I sanded these covers with 320 grit and then just polished them with brown and blue compound on a drill based polish attachment from Northern tool. Istarted by hand and said heck with that and got mechanical. Laziness inspires the mother of invention.LOL!