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73,000 miles on my 82 interstate and just don't have a lot of faith in the previous owners maintenance practices. It really had some issues when I bought it around Christmas. Anyway I have searched the forum, read the manual until I almost have it memorized, ordered the belts from NAPA, and am looking forward to a rainy grey weekend - might as well "get er done". Any tips - how do you know you have the tensioner tight enough and not too tight? Can I really just loosen the lower radiator bolts? If I don't remove the radiator will I be able to see the marks? I was amazed at the price of the gaskets! With all that said - all jobs seem to throw a surprise or two at you and all hints/ suggestions / tips not only welcome but may help boost my confidence. Thanks guys:11grey:



Mike
 

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On my 83 Aspencade :11grey:I removed the two bottom bolts and gently pulled the radiator out a little. It was still a tight squeeze but I could remove the timing covers and get at what I needed to. I only pulled the right side belt off because I had to pull the head to replace a blown gasket. It all went back together well enough without any "nasty" surprises!

Good luck!

Bob
 

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I am doing a timing belt change right now tonight. I have a 84 aspy. I have dained & removed the radiator. That was easy then I took the belt covers off was doing fine till the last bolt on the cover. The last bolt was on very tight and the allen wernch was spining in place. Someone has tried to take the covers off before rounded the inside of the allen bolt head. So I get the drill out put one drill bit bigger thatn the hole then I take the next size uo allen wrench and beat it in to the exiting hole. I was able to remove the covers this way. Just to fined all kinds of dirt and road grime inside the back part of the cover. I line up to top dead center and start to losen the tensioners on the bike. The belts look ok but I know this is not true the letters on the belt are all faded off and it looks S*th in there. So I am cleaning the tensoiners of with carb cleaner and a rag now because they are all caked up with rubber of the belts. I would also like to know how tight to get this belts on .... let me know if you find out . I just got this bike two weeks ago for 600.00 dollars. So whats the first thing I do as soon as I get it home start stripning it just to get a good look at what I got my self into. By the way the moter ran just fine before I started this but you never know how long the belts are going to last. The guy before me di not take care of her just rode her hard. She has 106,000 miles on her.:action:
 

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According to my manual (83 Aspencade) the belts are automatically adjusted for tension by the tensioner spring.

The book says;

"Apply pressure counterclockwise on the camshaft pulley so the belt will be slack at the tensioner. The tensioner is positioned by spring pressure with the bolts loosened."

"Tighten the tensioner bolts and recheck the timing."

Hope this helps :waving:

Bob
 

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If you set the tension by using the spring, be sure you have the two bolts loose enough for the spring to move the tensioner but snug enough that the tensioner won't be able to tilt. On the 1200 and 1500s which also have the spring the Clymer manual and the Honda shop manual call for setting the belts so that a 4lb press in the center of the pulling side will give a 1/4" displacement. It's better to err in the looser than tighter direction or you will get a whistling or squealing sound.

I'd recommend pulling the radiator, it's not that much more work and you can see what you are doing easier. I've done it both ways and find it better to remove the rad. If you take the two screws out of the water pump face, you only have to remove the top hose, preferably where it goes into the engine, leave the radiator side attached.

The timing is really easy, turn the engine with a ratchet on the crankshaft nut until the "UP" on the cam pulleys are right side up. If you mark the pulleys and the case with a marking pen it isn't necessary to worry about the crank pulley marking, just don't turn it until the new belts are on and tensioned. Once the belts are on and tensioned pull the engine over a couple times with the ratchet to make sure every thing is copecetic and recheck the belt tension. Hand turning after each belt change will guarantee that you won't have a piston-valve collision disaster.

If the rubber gasket on the cover seems too big due to stretching out a bit with age, glue it to the cover with crazy glue. Works very fast, just glue down a few inches at a time compressing it a little bit lengthwise and it will fit just fine again. These covers don't have to be oil tight after all, they are just just covers.
 
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