[Williamgl1200]

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Hello friends,
I recently acquired a goldwing that had a lot of damage to the clearcoat on the timing belt covers. I polished the clearcoat off and polished the underlying aluminum, then painted it with new clearcoat. This new coat almost instantly began peeling, and I was wondering if any of you know of a good paint or paint/ primer combination that could be used to coat the covers (and maybe later the valve covers, too) that will provide a thick and durable finish and protect the aluminum for a long time to come. Thanks!

 

[Williamgl1200]

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I see rust oleum has an engine enamel that is clear, is it safe to use alone, or does it need a primer?

 

[machinehead]

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Been there done that and my clear started to melt off the intake tubes after they got warm .
Seems there are so many different types of paint now , you must determine what type etc. you are using for whatever application .
I would suggest a trip to your local auto. paint store and ask questions .

 

[rideandslidejim]

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Once i got that clear coat off of mine,i sure wasn't going thru that again. So i just polish and wax the now and then.

Jim

 

[DaveO430]

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I did the timing belt and valve covers of a 1200 with Duplicolor high heat clear coat and it seems to be holding up real good, no peeling. I used to only use Rustoleum rattle can paint but I am liking the results I get with Duplicolor.

 

[Williamgl1200]

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Dave, thanks for the recommendation. Did you have to use a primer for that? I looked up the paint, and it looks like it will work just fine.

 

[DaveO430]

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I didn't use any primer but they have an adhesion promoter that might be a good thing to use on that.

 

[seabee]

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DaveO430 wrote:

I didn't use any primer but they have an adhesion promoter that might be a good thing to use on that.

They key is surface prep before painting. You have to be sure to get all the polish and oils off the surface. Be sure to use a cleaner recommended for painting.

 

[Williamgl1200]

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Great! I'll look into it. Thanks everyone!

 

[Williamgl1200]

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Thanks seabee. I'm wondering if that could be part of the problem. I saw a little wax under the clearcoat from the first try. I guess I just got rushed during the cleaning process. It probably didn't help that I just grabbed the nearest can of clearcoat, either. I had a "duh" moment on that one. I think it was clearcoat for automotive paint.

 

[Bike...and Dennis]

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I have used Rustoleum on mine twice now. The first coat lasted maybe 50K miles and died in a hail storm last summer.

It seems like you need to let it set up though. I got some hot anti-freeze on it this time, right after painting and it peeled.

After a thousand miles, it seems to be getting tougher.

 

[exavid]

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You'll get a more durable clear coat if you use a two part system. There are several rattle can two part urethane clear coats available that will hold up better than a simple clear spray.

http://www.repaintsupply.com/pd_2_part_2k_aerosol.cfm

 

[sfruechte]

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I agree with rideandslidejim. I tried the clear coat decades ago and it became cloudy and checked over time. I polished it with Flitz polish in a tube and it is shinier and stays nice without any coating.

 

[groutby]

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Hi Williamgl1200, took these bits off, took 'em to a local metal polisher, and later in the day they looked great..!!..bit of Mothers Mag and Ally or Autosol from time to time, and they still look great..!! :smiler: although, from memory, chromed ABS clip on ones are (or have been) available from one of the aftermarket suppliers.....?

 

[monkeytrucker]

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You might look at powder coating. Their colors are about anything you want. From chrome to a color that would match you bike. You can get color coat and the electrostatic gun from Eastwood. Can bake them in a old oven. There are probably several in your area that do powder coating.

We restored a Ford Model A and decided to have the spoked wheels powder coated. The first gravel road made us grin. Paint would have been chipped.

 

[englishted]

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There are clearcoats made specifically for bare aluminium, that won't peel or yellow with age. Links to the products were posted here a long time ago, but I can't remember what they were called. POR 15 perhaps?

 

[RckRagman]

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Not to hijack the thread, but I have a multi-part question regarding the timing belt cover.
(1) Is there any type of 'seal' that gets broken when you take the cover off? Or is it just a cover with a rubber type gasket around the edges?
(2) Would it be normal for a mechanic to write on the inside cover the mileage of the bike when the timing belt was last changed?
I was given timing belt cover and valve covers for my 83 GL1100 that are in much better shape than the ones currently on my bike. I'm going to swap the valve covers when I do the oil change before taking her out of winter storage...Figured I'd do the timing belt cover at the same time but having never done one, I wasn't sure what to expect...
I'm going to find another thread I saw about changing the timing belt...perhaps my answers will be there, but figured I'd ask just in case they're not...Thanks!
Rick

 

[newday777]

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Rick
Order some new gaskets for them both, valve and timing covers.
You might get more time out of the ones on there and you may not if they are old and brittle.

 

[wilf]

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who ever changed the belts last on my 1100 wrote the mileage and date on the back of the cover. The good folk's on the forums said I shold change them anyway! Go figue
Wilf

 

[Bike...and Dennis]

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Timing belt cover gaskets don't really seal anything. There's no oil in them and theyhave holes the gaskets don't cover.