[Coot]

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I replaced the timing belts on my 81 gl1100. The #2-4 head pulley lined up perfect but the #1-3 headpulley wouldn't line upas well. Always looked half a tooth off. Started it today and heard a bad noise, remove the #1-3 head and big hole through the #3 piston. The exhaust valve had broken off but the cylinder didn't look too bad, a couple of pin head dings. Don't know what to do now but to start drinking. Be care full changing those belts. Mine were k&n replacements.

 

[Coot]

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Yea it sucks, the pulley upindicators were both pointed up and the crank was on tds. I took off and put the #1-2 belt on at least 10 times trying to get the mark to point right on. I've pulled the motor and now the fun begins, will split the case tomorrow. I will need allot of help on this one. A good friend of mine is a Suzuki mech so I can get a little help from him. But I'm not going to be the one who puts the belts on this time. I need another beer, Coot

 

[Coot]

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OK, here is what happened. the #2/4 cam pulley has two raised marks, 180 apart and a arrow pointed to the right timing mark. The #1/3 cam pulley was different in several ways. It doesn't have the round holes in the pulley and it alsohas two marks that were indented instead of being raisedand there was no arrow. It does havesmall raised marks two teeth clockwise from the indented marks,whichis the correct timing mark. If you look at the two pulleys the indented marks and the raised marks look the same. Maybe I need more light.
I pulled the motor apart today to see the damage. The #1/3 head is destroyed along with the #3 piston and rod. The bore was slightly dinged. I'm going to bore it out .50 and putnew pistons in and replace all the bearings. If anyone has a rod and right head they need to get rid of let me know.I also need some info on the bearing replacement colors, Thanks Coot

 

[Coot]

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I've been rebuilding this bike for a couple of years. Took every piece off and powder coated them, new paint, brakes, chrome, not a bit of rust on it. I removed the belts a year ago and just got the time to put the carbs and belts on back on. I learned allot, especially in the last couple of days. I know now and it's going to cost me anothergrand at the least and to top it off the motor was in great shape.The bores looked great except for the one I screwed up. Live and learn, Coot

 

[Coot]

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I'm still recovering from my mistake. I thought about buying one off ebay, but years ago I bought a motor for a fiat that was suppose to be in great working order, except forthe spun bearing. My Suzuki mech disagreed too, never know what you will get. I broke down the motor yesterday.

I've bought some heads and piston rods already. Going to get some new .50mm over pistons and new bearings.Maybe in a month or two I'll have it back together.

Thanks for the help everyone, Coot

 

[Coot]

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englishted wrote:

GWEddie wrote:

Coot, didn't you try to turn the engine by hand after you fitted the belts and before starting the engine? If you did and it turned without locking up, then it sounds like a belt slipped after you did start the engine. Half a tooth off is not unusual for a Wing, I just can't see how half a tooth off would do this.

Eddie is right, the timinghad to be several teeth off for this disaster. But Coot already knows this from one of his posts. Just turning the engine by hand before starting would have save all this and this is what every mechanic in the world does after fitting new belts because it's common sense.
I also think a used engine is a better option. Once I read about the bent rod and the damaged bore that was enough for me to suggest another engine. Much cheaper for a start. Also if a guy manages to wreck an engine by getting the belt timing worng, I'd have to question his ability to rebuild a damaged engine without making other errors, no offence intended but that's just the way I see it.

Hey englishted, for one thing I'm not a mechanic by trade, I own custom cabinet shop. The timing marks on the right head are very faint, a little raised speck above a indented mark. I've worked on fiats, vw's, jeeps and boats and have never seen two totally different timing marks as there is on the left and right pulleys (Fiats have dual overhead cams). And yes I should have turn it over by hand but I just wasn't thinking about it at the time. The belts had been on fortwo years before I tried to start it, back then I should have testedit andturned it over by hand but it wasn't ready to run. I screwed it up but I can afford to fix it. Coot

 

[Coot]

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Thanks exavid and Tonys96 for the encouragement. The used heads and rod came in today and went right to the varsol tank. Sunday they go under the foredom for some porting and polishing. Hopefully next week the heads will go to theguru to get a valve job. I'll keep you guys posted on the progress, Coot

 

[Coot]

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That motor is at $375 plus $140 shipping, thats $510 for a used engine. I've calculated that it will cost me $1060 to rebuild mine, so for another $550 dollars I can put a fresh engine in.

I still can't see that any goodmechanic wouldrecommend putting a usedengine in without knowing the history and conditionof it. Could have been run low on oil, overheated or had some dumb a## like me put the belts on wrong. Thanks for the lead though, Coot

 

[Coot]

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Coot wrote:

That motor is at $375 plus $140 shipping, thats $510 for a used engine. I've calculated that it will cost me $1060 to rebuild mine, so for another $550 dollars I can put a fresh engine in.

I still can't see that any goodmechanic wouldrecommend putting a usedengine in without knowing the history and conditionof it. Could have been run low on oil, overheated or had some dumb a## like me put the belts on wrong. Thanks for the lead though, Coot

Now the engine is at $484 plus shipping, a total of $640 to your door, a little expensive for a used engine. I bought a set of heads off ebay from "a good running bike". The exhaust valve seats were pitted and oil fouled. No way these could have just been bolted on without a valve job first.

Has anyone else rebuilt a 1100 engine. I did a search and did'nt get any topics returned . My susuki mech is helping me, but he builds crotch rockets, so any advice or tips on this rebuild will be helpful, Thanks Coot

 

[Coot]

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I ordered the pistons and two arrived, honda is looking into the problem. I'm looking for new valves at a reasonable price. When the other two pistons arrive I'll have it bored then I can start the small block. I'll keep everyone informed. Coot

 

[Coot]

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The rebuild has indeed started. The blocks have been bored and honed and are ready to be picked up. I had to get two .50 pistons from England and .75 rings - allot of filling to do. The heads have been ported and the manifolds matched ported, waiting on new valves. Have all the gaskets to get it done.
I'm rebuilding the carbs in the meantime, hopefully I can get them back together before I forget how to, hehe.
I'm going to coat the motor flat black and the carbs, heads and a few other parts stainless using Gun Kote. I've use this product on rifles and it is impervious to all chemicals, including paint stripper and brake fluid.
If anyone would like to see pictures of the process let me know. Coot