Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner

Timing belt problems, not good

3590 Views 28 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  axelwik
imported post

:(I replaced the timing belts on my 81 gl1100. The #2-4 head pulley lined up perfect but the #1-3 headpulley wouldn't line upas well. Always looked half a tooth off. Started it today and heard a bad noise, remove the #1-3 head and big hole through the #3 piston. The exhaust valve had broken off but the cylinder didn't look too bad, a couple of pin head dings. Don't know what to do now but to start drinking. Be care full changing those belts. Mine were k&n replacements.
Status
Not open for further replies.
21 - 29 of 29 Posts
imported post

That motor is at $375 plus $140 shipping, thats $510 for a used engine. I've calculated that it will cost me $1060 to rebuild mine, so for another $550 dollars I can put a fresh engine in.

I still can't see that any goodmechanic wouldrecommend putting a usedengine in without knowing the history and conditionof it. Could have been run low on oil, overheated or had some dumb a## like me put the belts on wrong. Thanks for the lead though, Coot
imported post

Coot wrote:
That motor is at $375 plus $140 shipping, thats $510 for a used engine. I've calculated that it will cost me $1060 to rebuild mine, so for another $550 dollars I can put a fresh engine in.

I still can't see that any goodmechanic wouldrecommend putting a usedengine in without knowing the history and conditionof it. Could have been run low on oil, overheated or had some dumb a## like me put the belts on wrong. Thanks for the lead though, Coot


Now the engine is at $484 plus shipping, a total of $640 to your door, a little expensive for a used engine. I bought a set of heads off ebay from "a good running bike". The exhaust valve seats were pitted and oil fouled. No way these could have just been bolted on without a valve job first.

Has anyone else rebuilt a 1100 engine. I did a search and did'nt get any topics returned . My susuki mech is helping me, but he builds crotch rockets, so any advice or tips on this rebuild will be helpful, Thanks Coot
imported post

I've done one. You will need a Haynes manual even if you are experienced in working on other motorbkes. Spending the money on your own engine is a better idea than fitting a used one. For a start you know the history of your own engine and also you will be fitting new parts to it.
imported post

exdavid ill jump on your band wagon , everyone of us makes mistakes ive done more of them then i want to admit , is you dont screw up something some time you aint doing anything as if anything i can do to help i will im harder on myself the anyone else is when i mess up and yes it costs me dearly a lot of the times but its just human nature we all are not perfect dave t
imported post

How did you fare with the rebuild coot, did you even start the rebuild yet?
imported post

I ordered the pistons and two arrived, honda is looking into the problem. I'm looking for new valves at a reasonable price. When the other two pistons arrive I'll have it bored then I can start the small block. I'll keep everyone informed. Coot
imported post

The rebuild has indeed started. The blocks have been bored and honed and are ready to be picked up. I had to get two .50 pistons from England and .75 rings - allot of filling to do. The heads have been ported and the manifolds matched ported, waiting on new valves. Have all the gaskets to get it done.
I'm rebuilding the carbs in the meantime, hopefully I can get them back together before I forget how to, hehe.
I'm going to coat the motor flat black and the carbs, heads and a few other parts stainless using Gun Kote. I've use this product on rifles and it is impervious to all chemicals, including paint stripper and brake fluid.
If anyone would like to see pictures of the process let me know. Coot
imported post

By all means photos would be appreciated!:cheeky1:
imported post

You might know this, but before you put the belts back on, be sure to put the engine at TDC using the timing cover on top of the engine.There's a round cover with a screwdriver slot left of the centerline on top of the engine. There are markings on the flywheel and you should have the 1-T mark centered in the hole. If the cams are 180º off, turn the crank another 360º until the 1-T mark is again centered.

Without the 1-T mark centered, you're just guessing on TDC.
21 - 29 of 29 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top