[WyoWinger]

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I just bought a 1986 Goldwing Aspencade with 20,181 original miles. The owners manual and service manual say NOTHING about timing belt replacement any info would be appreciated. Also exhaust makes a popping noise when you back off the throttle hard. Any Ideas, there, too????? Thanks!!!! WyoWinger

 

[Goldwinger1984]

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For peace of mind and to save you some very expensive valve work you should replace the timing belts because of their age. The rubber dries out with time and the belts could break causing a whole bunch of bent valves, guides and other problems. The belts are not expensive, nor are they hard to replace, but, they must be installed at exactly the correct position, because you won't get a second chance due to the fact that the valves interfere with the pistons if positioned out of time. Get yourself a good service manual and study it carefully before you start this job.

I'm not quite sure what you mean by popping out the exhaust? Could it be that the crossover pipe is rusted and introducing air into the exhaust to cause the popping upon deceleration or is it more like the carbs are out of synchronization(one carb possibly staying open) and backfiring because the mixture is incorrect? Need more info because there is also an anti backfire valve(on the intake)that may need replacing if it's worn out.

Vic

 

[WyoWinger]

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Sounds like it's probably the anti-backfire valve. thanks. I'll look in my service manual about replacing it. The exhaust and cross over pipe are in good shape. WyoWinger

 

[Kyle]

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Hi WyoWinger

Depending on how hard it has been ridden, you should be looking at about the 30,000 mile mark. If you're not comfortable with doing it ,and youhave a regular wrench (mechanic) get him to pop off the covers and have a look.

From Cheyenne eh! Have some trouble deciding if you wanted to live in Colorado, Nebraska or Wyoming? How were the winds this summer? Twice in the past I've just about been blown off the face of the earth in Ogallala. How's the corn this year? Ours was the sh$ts.

 

[WyoWinger]

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Colorado is nice but expensive and too much traffic. The only reason the wind bows in Wyoming is because Nebraska "sucks"!!!!!!! Nice summer here this year not too hot and we finally got some relief rom the drought. Rode my other motorcycle to Seattle this summer for a visit. thanks for the response. WyoWinger.

 

[Jason]

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Hello WyoWinger. If you need help with how to change the belts, I have the Haynes manual for the 1200 on my PC. I can e-mail you the pages that deal with changing the T-belts if you need them. Send me a PM wth an e-mal address and I will mail the pages off. Most 1200 owners change the belts either every 2 years regardless of mileage, or every 60000 miles, whichever comes first. Honda were never helpful with suggestions on intervals for changing timing belts on the earlier Wings. BTW, pulling back the covers isn't easy with the radiator still in the bike, if you go to the trouble of pulling the rad forward you may as well just go the rest of the way and change the belts. Also just looking at timing belts isn't much help as they can still look serviceable near the end of their serviceable life anyway, unless they are so far gone as to have teeth missing.

The anti-backfire valve (there is another name for it but I can't remember now) is the usual cause of popping, usually it's loud popping. Other causes can be simply out of balance carbs, they need balancing every 8000 miles or less on the 1200.

 

[WyoWinger]

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Thanks Jason! I sent you a private e-mail with my address. WyoWinger

 

[chief43]

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Being not so inclined went to dealer to inquire about new belts and how much, they quoted me $375.00 dollars for the 2 belts installed. My question is this seems quite high, I have read the forums and it seems easy but Im' a little uneasy about trying it myself, but $375.0 seems like alot when you guys say it does'nt take that long.

 

[Jason]

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chief43 wrote:

Being not so inclined went to dealer to inquire about new belts and how much, they quoted me $375.00 dollars for the 2 belts installed. My question is this seems quite high, I have read the forums and it seems easy but Im' a little uneasy about trying it myself, but $375.0 seems like alot when you guys say it does'nt take that long.

All going well (no seized bolts etc) timing belt change should take between 2 and 3 hours. Taking the radiator out and refilling it after re-installing takes most of the time. I suppose the belts and bit of coolant to replace what ends up on the floor will cost about $75 and the rest is for labour. I don't know what $300 is worth in Euros but it does seem a bit steep for a mornings work.

 

[Guest]

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Jason wrote:I don't know what $300 is worth in Euros but it does seem a bit steep for a mornings work.

Jason, :waving:About 245euro at today's rate. :crying:Not bad for a mornings work. :gunhead: I think Im in the wrong job. :grinner:

:coollep: :18red: :coollep:

 

[Goldwinger1984]

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Jason, don't mean to disagree with you, since your input is so helpful out here, but a two year timing belt replacement scheduleseems a bit too frequent. I would say that every five to sevenyears might be a wee bit more appropriate unless the bikes your speaking of are frequently and severely overheating, causing the belts to cook and dry out faster than their estimated life span.

Vic

 

[FitzAl]

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Goldwinger1984 wrote:

but a two year timing belt replacement scheduleseems a bit too frequent.
Vic

2 years is the universally accepted manufacturers time interval. I was browsing a car data book a few weeks back and all the manufacturers that gave time/mileage limits ALL said 2 years or xxx miles (whichever comes first) for timing belt change. I'd still say 3 years is okay but I wouldn't be inclined to advise that to other people because it would be like saying the manufacturers are all wrong. Just looking at the tyres on my dads car after 3 years they have very fine little cracks in the sidewalls, so he has to get new ones even though there is loads of tread left. The timing belts are under lots of stress as well, I suppose rubber can dry out and lose some of ity strength after a few years.

 

[Guest]

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FitzAl wrote:

2 years is the universally accepted manufacturers time interval. I'd still say 3 years is okay but I wouldn't be inclined to advise that to other people because it would be like saying the manufacturers are all wrong. Just looking at the tyres on my dads car after 3 years they have very fine little cracks in the sidewalls, so he has to get new ones even though there is loads of tread left. The timing belts are under lots of stress as well, I suppose rubber can dry out and lose some of ity strength after a few years.

I drive a July'04 car :grinner:with 10k miles just recorded and had those little fine lines in between the threads which means the tyre is perished. :gunhead:The dealer replaced the tyres and returnrd the perished tyres to the maker. :waving:So your Dad at least got 3yrs out of his,I got 3mths out of mine. :crying:Im told the timing chain in the :18red:will almost last a lifetime.:clapper:

 

[Jason]

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Redwing. wrote:

FitzAl wrote:

Im told the timing chain in the :18red:will almost last a lifetime.:clapper:

Reports so far after 3 years are good on this. Many 1800s now with over 100k miles and no problems with the chain. I haven't heard of a single timing chain that had to be replaced and even the 30k valve clearance check can be left until double that as the valves and buckets are so hard that they don't wear within the 30k suggested times.

 

[Guest]

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Jason wrote:

Redwing. wrote:

Im told the timing chain on the :18red:will last a lifetime.:clapper:

Reports so far after 3 years are good on this. Many 1800s now with over 100k miles and no problems with the chain. I haven't heard of a single timing chain that had to be replaced and even the 30k valve clearance check can be left until double that as the valves and buckets are so hard that they don't wear within the 30k suggested times.

The wingnut had told me this, :clapper:but now the Guru has confirmed it. :clapper:Thats Great. :clapper: Another drink for the bar please. :waving:

:coollep: :18red: :coollep:

 

[WyoWinger]

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Anyone got any short cuts for this procedure that doesn't invovle removing the radiator. It just seems like a real pain in the rear to remove it. THANKS. WyoWinger

 

[Goldwinger1984]

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Sorry WyoWinger, you could do this job without removing the radiator, but, I doubt if it would be practical to do the timing belt change without checking the condition of your rad hoses as they are rubber also and probably just as old as the timing belts. New hoses aren't that expensive and getting the hoses on and off is possibly one of the most akward jobs involved in this repair. Get some new hoses, cut the old hoses off with a sharp knife and when you install the new hoses lubricate them well so they slide into place easily. You'll also find it most helpful to have the radiator out of the way to give clearance for the new belt installation, because it's just plain and simply a tight space to work in unless you do it like I did mine one time, see pic;

 

[Goldwinger1984]

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I've had the radiator off of my Wing several times since, (when I was adapting a 50 amp. custom alternator after my stator died) Once you get a few bolts and the bottom hose undone, all you have to do is disconnect the fan wiring and then remove the upper rad hose and the rad is out of the way.

Good luck and if you need more help we'll be here.

Vic

 

[WyoWinger]

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Do you know of anywhere besides Honda to get the radiator hoses from? Part numbers fot aftermarket hoses would be great too! Thanks. WyoWinger

 

[FitzAl]

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there used to be a special spanner available for removing the timing belt covers without taking the rad out, but it took so long to remove the bolts with the tool that it was quicker to remove the rad anyway, also you couldn't set the timing properly with the rad still in the way. Much easier to remove the radiator.