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I was going to take my left head off today, and I set my #1 on compression stroke and the T-1 mark, and on the timong marks and outside marks, and it come up on the #1 Cylinder, but not the T1 mark. It come up on the "F" Mark. It's a tooth off. How close is he "F" to the T1 mark?
Thanks,
David


P.S. The #2 cylinder Gasker was the problem..
 

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Nightrider, I cannot find this spec in the 1200 manual but in the 1100 manual F1 is 10deg btdc (T1 on number one cylinder)
 

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If it is only off by the distance between the T1 and F1 it is not a tooth off. It is not unusual for the cam pulleys to be off the mark a little.
 

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So this will not hurt it then? By the way, the old Head gasket was flat steel. I ordered the OEM gaskets from mother Honda. The right side was previously done by a man in a town about 20 miles from here. It is supposed to be oem.
After I torqued the right to 55 lbs, before I pulled the head, the right started smoking and steaming pretty bad. I'm glad I done it because it really showed which clyinder was bad, and there was a lot of carbon built up. Seemed like it would have been better though, But it must have been running higher compression, because carbon build up will increase compression, and blow a cylinder gasket, and the other side was much dirtier., (I didn't do a compression test. It wouldn't fit) and the plugs were steam cleaned.
Thanks Yall,
David
 

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Also, On the #1 cylinder, I run a scredriver down it, to make sure it was TDC as I turned the pully bolt before I pulled the head.
How can I check and see if a intake or exause bolt is bent? There were dents in the cylinders. Not bad though. Also, On the camshaft, I pulled it off with the pulley key up on the timing marks. It it accidentally rotated any, will it go back to the position (Timing Marks) if the camshaft is Key up? What if it was rotated any? It should be the same when the pulley key is back up to the original position . Is that correct?
Thanks,
David
 

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I assume you mean dents in the pistons, not the cylinders and valves not bolts.
With the head off either turn the cam to where there is clearance in the rocker arms or remove the cam and pour solvent or fuel into the intake and exhaust ports and watch for it to leak past the valves. If they are bent it will leak through pretty fast.
 

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Nightrider1 wrote:
...After I torqued the right to 55 lbs, before I pulled the head, the right started smoking and steaming pretty bad. I'm glad I done it because it really showed which clyinder was bad, .....
55 ft-lb????? Mercy!!! should be 40 to 42 ft-lb (or 55 Newton-meter) Hope that the heads are not warped or cracked...
 

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I was thinking of 55Nm. 40ft lbs is correct, and 10 ft lbs for the cam bolts, 6 ft lbs fot the screw under the head. It was set at 40ft lbs for the head. I am still going to have to check it for warpage or the 0.004 usage clearance. I may have to use the one I already have. Thanks for the reminder.
David
 

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Thanks Dave. I did take the cams off first.
David
 

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I done the solvent down the canshaft (WD40) and no leaks. I done this 2 times, with the same results. On the straight edge, It was a 0 tolerance. I could not even get the smallest 0.001 guage through any part of the X check on the camshaft or head. Now, I just hope the rings are ok. I d0 have a good spare 80 engine if needed, but I do not know how to swap out the Transmisson. I love the gear ratio on the Aspy.
Thanks,
David
 
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