[77GL1]

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I've made a discovery about the timing on my GL1000 which I'm doing an article about, but in the mean time.....this is a difficult shot. It's nearly impossible to get the light to shine in the right place 'cause everything's in the way...and focusing, on what? Where the light won't go.

 

[GSMacLean]

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Your fuel filter is in the way! I don't know about the GL1000, I can't imagine it's that different than the GL1100, but on the GL1100, the fuel filter is bolted to a tab that is molded in the center of the fuel tank, so the fuel filter is right in the middle of the engine, directly behind the throttle bellcrank - nowhere near the timing window cap, where you are showing it.

 

[77GL1]

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I'm showing it in its proper postition, in the mount it's made to go in. The lighting problem is the light needs to be as close to the camera lens as possible....but there's just no room to get it there.

 

[IRAQI RAM]

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What? Didyoudiscover that your fuel line is covering up most of the timing window?:action:

 

[IRAQI RAM]

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Thomas Edison just called...he wants his light back.

 

[Mike Toon]

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It's not rocket science. If it's really in the way, remove it and plug/pinch the line until you're finished.

 

[dan filipi]

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Remove the hose/filter then shine a flashlight straight at the mark, the extra light will help the camera focus.

So what's this discovery you made?

 

[77GL1]

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dan filipi wrote:

Remove the hose/filter then shine a flashlight straight at the mark, the extra light will help the camera focus.

So what's this discovery you made?

This would be good, but having just rebuilt the carbs I'm not in much mood to take anything apart for a while, but a flashlight might work. The filter isn't the problem. The light source must be very close to the camera lens or you get heavy shadows. I thought about buying a medical Nikkor lens that has a light source in a ring around the end of the lens, but $1200 for a used lens isn't my thing.

Dan, you're paying attention!...., but I'm not saying what I've discovered until I fully document it and describe the process I went thru to figure it out. I'll post it in full on my site so people can get an accurate and detailed explanation before making their own conclusions.

It's something that some folks will have difficulty......excepting that Honda could do such a thing.

 

[ding dong]

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You're not talking about this are you?



http://www.randakks.com/TechTip7.htm

 

[77GL1]

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That is the problem or difficulty, but I've come up with a completely different solution that doesn't rely on "Splitting the difference".

 

[ding dong]

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You better tell us or we're comming to Texas to get ya. Seriously have you a definite tested solutionor are you testing a solution?

 

[77GL1]

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Alright, I'm glad somebody's interested....



It's all about asumptions. Long time ago my dad told me people would bring back airplanes a year or two into ownership andstate the airplane (the Merlin) wasn't going as fast as it was 'spose to go. After recalibrating the instruments back to spec, the airplane was indeed up to speed. People assumed the instruments were correct in that particular instance.



...but the GL1000 timing is another issue and there are some basic assumptions that everyone is exceptingas correct, but in fact,are in error.


...I'm flooded with work, so it's a bit difficult to getit finished....almost done. 95%

 

[ding dong]

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If your work proves to be correct you should go over to the NGW site and share this info. There are a ton of 1000s on that site.
www.nakedgoldwings.com

 

[GSMacLean]

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77GL1 wrote:

This would be good, but having just rebuilt the carbs I'm not in much mood to take anything apart for a while, but a flashlight might work. The filter isn't the problem. The light source must be very close to the camera lens or you get heavy shadows. I thought about buying a medical Nikkor lens that has a light source in a ring around the end of the lens, but $1200 for a used lens isn't my thing.

Do it yourself!

 

[77GL1]

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oops

 

[77GL1]

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GSMacLean wrote:

Do it yourself!

This is a great referral!!! I hadn't thought of that. I've got an F, F2, N80 and D2Xs...and tend to just think Nikon.

 

[77GL1]

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.. took the link out because I need to do a better job atclarifying which issure...mentioned below.

..the issue some know as "split-timing" is electo-mechanical. My issue/solution is purely mechanical.

 

[DaveO430]

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So how did you determine the timing marks are wrong? Did you pull a head and use a dial indicator to find true TDC?
That small amount won't make any difference on valve adjustment. Remember it would only be 1/2 that amount on the cams. 3 1/2 to 5 degrees.

 

[77GL1]

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DaveO430 wrote:

So how did you determine the timing marks are wrong?

The biggest eveidence was that with either mechanical or magnetic points, it is impossible to set the timing correctly. That indicates that one ofthe "F" marks has to wrong. Moving the mechanical points, or Dyna S magnets as close together as possible on the primary timing plate still resulted in the timing setat #1 spot on, and #2, 5 or more degrees retarded. Same results with stock and Dyna S points. I considered modifying either set of points to allow further movement, but eventually decided that didn't make sense.

 

[Whiskerfish]

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I have installed or adjusted points on many Early 1000's and the only times I ever had a problem getting both sets to line up with their respective F marks was when the points tabs were excessively worn or using substandard aftermarket replacements. I never had an issue with new OEM points, and even installing new OEM plate assemblies I have had to set up the #2 points.

The problem with the dyna clearance between the modules is well documented and I have always considered it a manufacturing/ design error. Not something I would attribute to a error in the machining of the Crank.

To jump to the conclusion that the index marks are off on the crank without pulling the engine down is quite a stretch?