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I would like to know from those of you who work on your own bikes is it hard to remove the front tire off of a GL1800?
I need a new front tire and the E3 costs me $189 and $75 to change it. The honda shop told me that if I buy the tire from them and bring in the rim they will change it for free. Sounds like a good deal but I have no idea of how to remove it. Do I need a caliper wrench and some other special tools to do it?
Thanks in advance for your advice.
 

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Hi, Im not sure about your 1800 but my 1200 I remove both calipers then with a board on a small jack under the front of the engine I raise the front wheel off the floor,remove the axel and roll the front wheel out.I hope this is of some value to you and good luck.BTW no special tools needed.
 

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Thank you for the reply. I wasn't sure if when I went to put it back on if I needed a torque wrench or lock tight or anything like that.
 

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I dont beleive you will need any locktight however if you dont have a toque wrench for the axel nut you can hand tighten it then ride it to were someone does.
 

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BTW I used antisieze on my caliper bolts,axel,and axel nut.Helps them come off easyier the next time.When you reinstall your calipers remember to spread the pads apart befor hand.Again good luck!
 

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moonhead wrote:
BTW I used antisieze on my caliper bolts,axel,and axel nut.Helps them come off easyier the next time.When you reinstall your calipers remember to spread the pads apart befor hand.Again good luck!
I guess the thing that made me wonder if it was hard to do was that the honda shop told me that the front tire is much harder than the rear and that is why they charge more for the front. New to me.
 

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I cant help with that although I think honda made it more assesable to remove the rear wheel,it wont be long when others that own 1800s will chime in.Thats what makes this site the best sorce for infomation!
 

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dheaton wrote:
I guess the thing that made me wonder if it was hard to do was that the honda shop told me that the front tire is much harder than the rear and that is why they charge more for the front. New to me.
The rear wheel on an 1800 comes off like a car tyre, five nuts and drop it out.
The front unlike the rear requires messing with calipers and a through bolt/axle.
 

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the front wheel is easy. you do not need to take the calipers off, just take the 4 bolts out of the front fender and then take out the axle. no specials tools . it should take less than 30minutes for a first timer
 

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jnel57 wrote:
the front wheel is easy. you do not need to take the calipers off, just take the 4 bolts out of the front fender and then take out the axle. no specials tools . it should take less than 30minutes for a first timer
Wow, step by step indtructions would be great.
 

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put bike on center stand, put jack under engine andjack until frt wheel is barley off the ground. remove the 4 bolts in the front section of the front fender.remove the large axlenut on the right side. loosen the four pinch bolts at the bottom of the forks, then remove the axle. the wheel should roll right out. reinstalling is different. after putting in the axle tighten up the left side pinch bolts and then tighten axle nut then tighten the right pinch bolts



Now I see you have rotor covers. just remove the bolts and let them hang by the wire very carefully


Our dealer wants $45.00 to change and the independent wants $30.00 if i but the tire from them. how far do you have to drive ?


If you have a problem putting the wheel on with caliper in place only remove the right caliper (2 bolts) put the wheel on then put caliper back on and use the 3m blue locktite
 

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dheaton wrote:
jnel57 wrote:
the front wheel is easy. you do not need to take the calipers off, just take the 4 bolts out of the front fender and then take out the axle. no specials tools . it should take less than 30minutes for a first timer
Wow, step by step indtructions would be great.
Taking the front wheel off with the calipers in place is simple, reinstalling it can be a "be eye tee see atch" with the calipers in place.
 

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I buy my tires on-line because of the price. There is a little motocross shop near me that is very good and they hit me for $40/wheel to mount and balance tires (both my wings have powdercoated wheels - I'm not sure if that counts against me).

Anyway I think I can get the front wheel off the 1800in under 5 minutes for sure. This is what I use.



Small hydraulic floor jack, 3/8 drive metric allen wrench set, 3/8 drive medium torx set,3/8 torque wrench (in-lbs),a couple of kitchen sized terrycloth towels, and duct tape.



Because of the linked brakes - the left caliper has an allen and a torx fastener. The right side is a couple of bolts. The axle spacers are different on the right side thanonthe left. There is a line scribed on the OD of the axle at the left end. The outside of the left leg should be at that line. Don't bang the wheel on the calipers when you slide it out (wrap each caliper in a towel and hold the towels in placewith the tape). Gotta take care about stressing the brake lines with the weight of the calipers. Remember to push the brake pistons back a little (carefully) so the calipers slide back on easier.



It's a piece of cake.



On the other hand I already owned the tools. It's either "convenience vs price" or "I just like to wrench". But my bike is out of service for maybe an hour and that includes my RT drive time. There's value there too.



NEVER use loctite on fasteners in plastic panels. Do not ask how I know this.
 

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jnel57 wrote:
put bike on center stand, put jack under engine andjack until frt wheel is barley off the ground. remove the 4 bolts in the front section of the front fender.remove the large axlenut on the right side. loosen the four pinch bolts at the bottom of the forks, then remove the axle. the wheel should roll right out. reinstalling is different. after putting in the axle tighten up the left side pinch bolts and then tighten axle nut then tighten the right pinch bolts



Now I see you have rotor covers. just remove the bolts and let them hang by the wire very carefully


Our dealer wants $45.00 to change and the independent wants $30.00 if i but the tire from them. how far do you have to drive ?


If you have a problem putting the wheel on with caliper in place only remove the right caliper (2 bolts) put the wheel on then put caliper back on and use the 3m blue locktite

Sounds good. I live way out in the boonies and the closest shop (of any make) is 4 hours one way. I really have no problem just paying to get it done but it is such a hassell being that they are so far away. I need to learn to do it all myself. But for now maybe just tire removal.
I saw in one video where a guy puts his bike over on the side to change the back tire. Is that the way most people do it?
 

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GregForesi wrote:
I buy my tires on-line because of the price. There is a little motocross shop near me that is very good and they hit me for $40/wheel to mount and balance tires (both my wings have powdercoated wheels - I'm not sure if that counts against me).

Anyway I think I can get the front wheel off the 1800in under 5 minutes for sure. This is what I use.



Small hydraulic floor jack, 3/8 drive metric allen wrench set, 3/8 drive medium torx set,3/8 torque wrench (in-lbs),a couple of kitchen sized terrycloth towels, and duct tape.



Because of the linked brakes - the left caliper has an allen and a torx fastener. The right side is a couple of bolts. The axle spacers are different on the right side thanonthe left. There is a line scribed on the OD of the axle at the left end. The outside of the left leg should be at that line. Don't bang the wheel on the calipers when you slide it out (wrap each caliper in a towel and hold the towels in placewith the tape). Gotta take care about stressing the brake lines with the weight of the calipers. Remember to push the brake pistons back a little (carefully) so the calipers slide back on easier.



It's a piece of cake.



On the other hand I already owned the tools. It's either "convenience vs price" or "I just like to wrench". But my bike is out of service for maybe an hour and that includes my RT drive time. There's value there too.



NEVER use loctite on fasteners in plastic panels. Do not ask how I know this.

Thanks for the info. I am going to do this thing.
 

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dheaton wrote:
jnel57 wrote:
I saw in one video where a guy puts his bike over on the side to change the back tire. Is that the way most people do it?
That is how I do it, but it still gives me that sick feeling looking at it. if you have a trailer hitch it makes it faster and easier
 

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if you have the manual that came with the bike, it's all in there with the pictures and everything. That's how I learned to do mine. it really is easy though. Just not as easy as the back. You can do the back tire either way, but if you have a hitch then it's just easier to lay it on it's side.
 
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