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Having lost one or both seals on my front forks, I made a few calls for quotes to have the seals/bushings replaced. There was a big difference between the price with thetubes still attached to the bike and for the tubes brought in by themselves.

Being on a budget I was getting ready to remove thetubes from the bike (I bought one of those Clymer service manuals) untill a Harley riding aquaintance told me I would never be able to get the forks back on straight again. He begailed me with horror stories of not having the right tools, alignment problems and poor handling if I tried to put thetubes back on the bike myself. :shock:

Anytruth to his fears? I would rather save $250.00 - $300.00 and do the grunt work myself. Theseal rebuild looks complicated and messy enough for me to pay someone to do it.

Also, can the tubes be removed and re-installed without removing the fairing?
 

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Asked the same question myself, but my pocket-book got the better of me. 1/2 day to get them off, and about the same to reinstall. That was 10,000 miles ago, if I had a better equipped garage, I'd have done the seals also.

I used a Clymer manual also. It really is fairly straight forward. My local dealer wanted $380.oo , I gave him the tubes and $165.oo for a rebuild,(bushings/seals-fluid).

Good luck, the tubes pretty much allign themselves, my front tire is nearing 15,000 miles with only routine signs of wear....:clapper:



P.S. this was on an 86-Interstate.
 

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I have never heard of any fork alignment problems on these bikes. I have removed one of my fork's twice for new seals and never had any problem. I replaced the seal once myself but it started to leak again (didn't have a seal driver) I just tapped the seal into place. The second time I removed the fork and took it to the local Honda shop and had them replace the seal for $30.00. The job was easy but a little time consuming (a couple of hours) to remove and the same to replace. You do NOT need to remove the fairing!:clapper: After you remove the air lines, brake caliper (don't let it hang by the hose) and front wheel just reach down and loosen the pinch bolts then slide the fork out. If I have to do it again I will make a sealdriver out of 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" PVC and save the $30.00!

Good luck! I have an 83 Aspencade.
 

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Don't know about Harleys, but your Harley friend knows diddly about Goldwings if he told you all that rubbish. There is plenty of room to get at thr fork bolts with the fairing on and you won't have problems aligning them. Just one small tip; Loosen the top fork caps before loosening the actual fork bolts, the fork bolts will keep the tubes tight while you undo the caps.
 

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No problem at all with DIY fork seal changes on a Wing. Just make certain that you install the new seal backwards to Clymer tells you to do, meaning, the double edged part of the seal faces upward and the single edge goes downward.

To get the old seal out just pry it up with an awl or screwdriver, but, be certain that you don't scratch the fork tube when doing so(use some grease on the tool so it slides instead of scoring.) Drive the new seal in with ABS plastic pipe of the correct size and length.

To line up the front end, assemble everything first then torque the fasteners after eveything is snugged gently into place. This will help to assure proper alignment.

Vic
 

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only thing you have to watch is that you don't catch the fork tubes when

removing the old seals other than that read the book and any one can do it don't forget to support the front of the bike with a jack or similar

Glenn/uk
 

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Seems like the Clymer manual has a lot of things backwards on Goldwings. Fork seals, carb jets, tank removal etc. I wouldn't take one of those manuals if you gave it to me - the factory manual is the best.

Maybe with a Harley it's different (I don't think so), but I've never heard of alignment problems from removing and re-installing forks and I've done it on many bikes through the years. I think your Harley friend is clueless.
 
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mjpliv wrote:
I was getting ready to remove thetubes from the bike untill a Harley riding aquaintance told me I would never be able to get the forks back on straight again. He begailed me with horror stories.
Hey mjpliv, :waving: If you listen to all the rubbish that your harley friend tells you :whip: your in big trouble. :crying:These guys are so accustomed to horror stories about their own bikes :whip: they think they also apply to Goldwings. :leprechaun:Just make sure that you read very carefully what FitzAl has told you. :clapper:

:santahat: :18red: :santahat:
 

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mjpliv

As everyone has said, no problems taking off your tubes, it actually is pretty easy. What causes seals to go are finite bits of road crap, weathering, and time. When your tubes are apart, spend a good amount of time polishing, and polishing, and polishing. Watch for things like scratches and any pitting. Polish them til they're smoother than a baby's butt.



Kyle

How come life's lessons don't come out in a book?
 

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Thanks for all the good advice, a little mana for all who answered!:clapper:

Tomorrow I will be a little more confident that I will actually be able to remove and re-install the tubes. I went out today and bought some metric wrenches, sockets and allen keys. Thanks for the insight on the Clymer errors. Hopefully the guys at the shop know which way the seals are supposed to go.

I suspect that the reason the seals went in the first place is the lack of use the bike was getting. The last sticker on the bike was for '02 so it has been stored since then. I imagine the seals were pretty well dried out.
 

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FitsAl has it all. Just remember when removing the fork caps hang on tight, they are undersome pressure and can get away from you if your not careful. Good Luck
 

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Well the tubes are off with a little effort. Not too bad actually.

When I removed the calipers I found that the rubber boots on the anti-dive pivot bolts (both sides) had disintegrated :(. I hope I can order these parts somewhere :shock:.
 
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