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Cleaning the forks on my '84 Standard, I almost have the TRAC disassembled, but cannot get the last two parts out.

The manual states to remove the pin to get the adjust screw out. Doesn’t say how. I got the little springs out, but the ball bearing did not fall out. The black puck doesn’t come all the way out either (see pic).

Maybe I don’t need to remove everything. I would like to know if the ball bearing is actually in there. I would think it would fall out after the spring is removed. Also, every time I handle this part more black oil comes out. I’d like to get it completely disassembled so I can soak the housing in kerosene or ATF.

Thanks for your advice. JD
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Never mind

I guess nobody knows about the TRAC here. Mine has likely never worked on this bike, since I've owned it. I also remember back 35 years when I bought my first '84 Standard, new from the dealer, that the 1-2-3-4 settings really made no real difference riding. Going to slap it back together today as it was.
 

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The Anti-Dive is for the "Dive" that happens when you stab the brakes. So, the TRAC system is designed to resist this dive that happens. So, the dial (1-2-3-4) will increase or decrease the amount of resistance to the dive of the forks. That is why there is the little lever that is connected to the brake caliper. This will not effect the smoothness of the ride, only the amount of compression you get of the forks when you brake hard.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
ATF in forks?

I got 2 responses, but both failed to read the request in the OP.

So, I was not able to pull the pin to remove the adjust screw, what Honda calls the Orifice. I soaked the parts in ATF for 2 nights and it did get very clean, enough to see the ball bearings in the TRAC case, but for some reason the ball bearings would not come out the opening. Now I know they are in there.

All is clean and rebuilt, so I hope it works now. Prior to this work, when I jammed on the front brakes and the forks would go down quickly. Maybe it would be worse w/o TRAC or maybe it was not functioning. I don't know.

Dennis, BTW the Pirelli MT66 tires you suggested look great! Much better tread design than the Dunlop E3 tires I bought last time. I used balance beads inside and sealed the rims with slime, which is NOT easy to do! I filled the front to 40 lbs. the first night and the pressure dropped to 38 in 24 hours. This worried me, per your comment. Then I set the pressure to 34 lb which is about where I would run the front. It has sit exactly at 34 lb for 3 days now! I didn't want to mount, if it was going to leak. I believe the 2 lb loss the fist night was just due to some initial stretch after mounting.

So, is any ATF good for fork oil? That's all the service manual states.
 

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So, is any ATF good for fork oil? That's all the service manual states.
At the time they were probably using dexron 2.
 

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Thanks Dave, I just got back from Napa and I bought AMSOIL Synthetic ATF. I went with synthetic since I'd like to not do this again for awhile. It poured out cherry red, just like Dexron.

So I added 345 ml into each, like it states in the manual for disassembly. there is another 323 measurement, which is likely for draining only, since the delta of 22 ml is likely caught in the TRAC or elsewhere.

So with this added, forks compressed, no spring inserted, the oil is a good 8" from the top of the shock. I believe I read somewhere on this forum that it should come 5.5" from top. I had the same situation when I did my CRF230F recently. I understand you can go a bit more for a heavier ride, but there is a point where too much oil is bad. Any thoughts, while I search this site more?
 

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I just realized where I read the 5.5 inch height. It is listed in the Progressive install notes as a not-to-exceed number. It also states that Progressive springs displace more oil. I found a post on this forum with numbers for the 1500 that are 8-9" deep, so I'm thinking to go with the 345 ml as per the manual. It's time to put the caps on an remount the front of this bike! Then I will only have to change the rear tire...
 

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Thanks Dave, I just got back from Napa and I bought AMSOIL Synthetic ATF. I went with synthetic since I'd like to not do this again for awhile. It poured out cherry red, just like Dexron.

So I added 345 ml into each, like it states in the manual for disassembly. there is another 323 measurement, which is likely for draining only, since the delta of 22 ml is likely caught in the TRAC or elsewhere.

So with this added, forks compressed, no spring inserted, the oil is a good 8" from the top of the shock. I believe I read somewhere on this forum that it should come 5.5" from top. I had the same situation when I did my CRF230F recently. I understand you can go a bit more for a heavier ride, but there is a point where too much oil is bad. Any thoughts, while I search this site more?
The thing is the synthetic will get just as dirty as conventional ATF. I think it's better err on the low side rather than overfill so stick to the recommended amount. I leave mine about an inch below the level progressives call for.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
It works fine. It's such a simple system, if you keep the oil changed, there's nothing to go wrong.
I agree to a point, now that I have serviced this assembly. Given you change fork oil every 2 years as the service manual suggests, or close to that, I would think the dirt collected in the TRAC will be cycled into the main body of the fork body. Meaning you'll clean most of that dirt, next change. Too much dirt collected in the TRAC; will it work? The oil passages in this assembly are quite small.

I found almost as much dirt (black particles that sit at the bottom of the drained ATF), in the TRAC as in the bottom of the fork body. It only takes 4 Allen screws to clean this part. I suggest, next change clean the TRAC too!
 

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The thing is the synthetic will get just as dirty as conventional ATF. I think it's better err on the low side rather than overfill so stick to the recommended amount. I leave mine about an inch below the level progressives call for.
Agreed Dave, I merely believe synthetics have greater shelf life. Not sure, just opinion.

Dirt, or carbon from heat, collects mostly from usage and somewhat during storage, but much less so. When I only put 1500 miles on my GL1200 per year, and other miles on my GPz900 or my R-bike or my K-bike, its not like I'm servicing ONE vehicle that get 20K miles of punishment per year.

I believe one advantage of synthetics, is you can go longer between changes. For years, I thought synthetics were nonsense. I drive mostly old cars and bikes, that were designed to use petroleum based products. Why pay 4x for oil, if you are going to change it 2-3 times per year. Why? Don't - it makes absolutely no sense.

Like so many for-sale ads; "Changed oil every 2-3K miles with Mobil-1." If you use a superior oil, why do you change it so often? When I drive a car 20K miles per year, I change oil often and use what the manufacturer calls for.

I will likely leave this AMSOIL Synthetic ATF in my GL for 6 years. I'll bet it looks pretty good when I drain it next time, because of how anal I cleaned the forks!

(Job 99% done. I’ll take it for a ride tomorrow and then park it the other direction for the new rear tire!)
 

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I believe one advantage of synthetics, is you can go longer between changes. For years, I thought synthetics were nonsense. I drive mostly old cars and bikes, that were designed to use petroleum based products. Why pay 4x for oil, if you are going to change it 2-3 times per year. Why? Don't - it makes absolutely no sense.

Like so many for-sale ads; "Changed oil every 2-3K miles with Mobil-1." If you use a superior oil, why do you change it so often? When I drive a car 20K miles per year, I change oil often and use what the manufacturer calls for.

I change the oil in our car once a year using pure synthetic, it is a 2007 and has always had the oil changed annually since it was new.


Once while the wife was very sick and we lived in hospitals more than at home, I forgot the car's oil change. the car was making round trips to the hospitals everyday, my daughter and I took turns baby sitting my wife 24 hrs 7 days for nine months.

when I remember the oil needed to be changed, I was appalled that it had almost 16,000 miles on it.

Turns out that is not as sacrilegious as I thought it would be. The oil check 'tech' typed in 5w30, it was 5w20 as spec'd by GM.
 

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I change the oil in our car once a year using pure synthetic, it is a 2007 and has always had the oil changed annually since it was new.


Once while the wife was very sick and we lived in hospitals more than at home, I forgot the car's oil change. the car was making round trips to the hospitals everyday, my daughter and I took turns baby sitting my wife 24 hrs 7 days for nine months.

when I remember the oil needed to be changed, I was appalled that it had almost 16,000 miles on it.

Turns out that is not as sacrilegious as I thought it would be. The oil check 'tech' typed in 5w30, it was 5w20 as spec'd by GM.
I has amazed me at times, when changing oil on an old bike or car I just bought and the oil comes out very nasty, BUT later when pouring it out of the pan and into the container for recycling I notice how sticky the oil still is. It's dirty, but still protecting the moving parts. Best of health to your wife and family. JD
 

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BUT later when pouring it out of the pan and into the container for recycling I notice how sticky the oil still is. It's dirty, but still protecting the moving parts. Best of health to your wife and family. JD
Engine oil has three functions. To lubricate, (duh). But also to carry away heat from friction. It is also designed to suspend solids. Just because it's slippery doesn't mean it's protecting. Synthetics are great, but they need to be used correctly. The oil make last a long time, but it still needs to be filtered. Synthetic once a year. Oil filter twice.
 

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Engine oil has three functions. To lubricate, (duh). But also to carry away heat from friction. It is also designed to suspend solids. Just because it's slippery doesn't mean it's protecting. Synthetics are great, but they need to be used correctly. The oil make last a long time, but it still needs to be filtered. Synthetic once a year. Oil filter twice.

on the Pontiac Vibe, you have to either have a lift, or a basement ramp like in the Jiffy Lubes. the oil filter is covered up with a big plastic shield full width of the car.


a couple days ago, we got to hearing a dragging noise under the car.
I laid down and looked, and low and behold, all of the metal bolts had been removed from that shield and it was now dragging on the ground.


when I saw how easy it was going to be for me to do my own oil changes now, I took the 3 remaining bolts out of the left side, and threw that shield away.
 
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