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I have checked continuity from the solenoid wires gr/rd and y/rd back to the bundle/bullet connectors at the steering column, the wires are good to that point.

I checked the function of the clutch switch..when activated it shows continuity gr/r to g so the switch works when I pull the clutch in. Note the biek is in neutral..the wheel spins and the green light is on to.

What I want to check now is continuity to/ for the start button back to the wires at the steering column when there are bullet connectors, but not sure which two wires to check..b/rd to y/rd or y/rd to b. Or should I do it with the key on and check for V's if so which two wires?? IE when the starter switch is depressed what wires(colors)/circuit is completed..besides the headlight circuit being broken.

When I push the start button now I get nothing at the solenoid but the headlight does go out. If I hot wire the solenoid it does click..so it is working.

Suggestions..Ron you still out there>
 

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when you push your start button, You should get power at the starter relay which than goes to the solonoid. can you put a multi meter on your relay & look for power?
 

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Next thing I would look at is the starter button. Even if its knocking out the headlight, it might not be shunting to the solenoid. Sorry I don't know the color of the wire from the switch.
 

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I don't see anything called power relay on the schematic..I ahve the color one from the reference section. Following the wires from the solenoid they jsut go to the starter switch and the clutch safety switch. There is a branch to a diode and a connection to a resistor but nothing else I can see.

got a pic or schematic that can show it to me.
 

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You should get power on the red/yellow wire at the solenoid when you push the button.The power goes to the switch on a black wire.
 

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I dont have a pic, but mabey this will help. when the starter is cranking it draws alot of power. If you look at the wires in your start button you will determine that there is no way all that power could travel in a little wire like that without melting every bit of it.

So for this reason, Instead of running big wires into your handle bars, they decide to run small wires that will trip a switch (Relay) closer to your starter. So, the wiring at your start button is made to flick a switch. when it does, it connects your battery power to your starter to crank your motor.

Mabey, if that made sense to you, you might be able to figure out the power route from your button, through the switch & into your starter.

I hope this helps a little!
 

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OK here's what I just did while you guys were typing.. another continuity check I reasoned the the switch has to make a circuit from the y/rd to the gr/r so at the bullet connectors near the steering column I disconnected y/rd bullet and the gr/r bullet and then did a continuity check from the y/rd coming out of the handlebars and the gr/r going to the solenoid..no button pushed meter reads 1... button pushed..it dropped to 0 so there is a path and the switch is connecting the y/rd wire to the circuit.. so what does that tell me..if anything???

I will go back out and try Dave's suggestion..if I can figure it out..

What I get is:

First I need to check the black wire at the switch with the meter set to V's and the neg probe to ground, positive on the black wire and the key on..to see if power is getting to the start button.

If that works then at the y/rd wire at the bullet just before the solenoid again neg lead to ground and positive to y/rd wire and push the start button to see if V's are present.

Do I have it right..don't want to burn anything...:)
 

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Ok that's what I did:

First I checked at the bullet near the steering column for the black wire..ignition on, pos probe to the bullet, neg to ground and I have V's there. Next I check continuity from that point of the black wire up to the switch, hard to get into the switch but I did and the wire is good. So power is getting to the start switch via the black wire. I did it this way so if I was doing something wrong i wouldn't burn the switch up.

Next pos probe on the end of the y/rd wire at the bullet at the solenoid and neg to ground. Key on, push the starter button..and miracles of miracles I had V's..so now I hooked it all back up.....

Key on, clutch lever in, start button pushed and I got not a click but a buzzzz from the solenoid but definitely getting power to it now..I must have fixed a loose connection with all my checking around. Now why a buzz and not a nice solid click???

Anyone have another explanation for a buzz rather than a click.

Note this battery is not the best but it will turn the start when I hook it up directly with a heavy cable.. pos battery post to starter post, direct. I keep it charge up daily and it holds 12 V's for a couple of days..haven't checked V's while turning the starter on a direct link.

Thanks for the help guys..Dave in particular.

Comments on buzz vs click are welcome????
 

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A low battery will cause the buzz because there's not enough power to pull the relay coil in hard enough to make contact.
Good work so far.
 

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Maybe time for a new battery and a real go at starting this beast up. I can turn it over with kick starter, carbs are clean and ready to go, tank has been cleaned too.
 

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I think you may have a couple of problems in there. Try a couple of tests so we can see what we have. All measurements are looking for 0 or 12 VDC so have your meter on the 20VDC range.

1. disconnect the green/red wire from the solenoid. With red lead on battery + and black lead on green/red wire from bike (power off) what do you get with

(a) bike in neutral,
(b) in gear,
(c) with clutch pulled in

2. disconnect the yellow/red wire from the solenoid. With black lead on battery - and red lead on yellow/red wire from bike (power on) what do you get with

(a) starter button not depressed
(b) starter button depressed

3. With power off, run a jumper from solenoid's green/red wire to battery -. Connect another jumper to battery + and momentarily tough to the yellow/red to the solenoid. NOTE this should do one of the following
(a) nothing
(b) solenoid buzz
(c) solenoid click
(d) starter turn engine over.

Reconnect everything and let me know what you find. The attached schematic may help you understand what I am looking at (for.)
 

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Check the wires at your clutch switch the button has been known to go bad. To test unplug the two wires from clutch switch at clutch lever and use a jumper(A paper clip works great) between the two wires see if bike starts if so replace switch.
 

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Keep it simple. Look for a voltage drop over positive cable between battery & solenoid. Check with meter if there is any difference replace the postive cable between battery & solenoid. Also ground connections.

Connect your meter across the battery & when you hit starter button ( kill swtich on ) the voltage should stay above 10 volts. If it doesn't bike won't start.

Sounds like you need a new battery so you might as well get one ( to eleminate that as your problem ). Try hooking another good battery ( boost it ) onto your old battery. If starter turns over, then you know battery is toast. ( That doesn't mean that it will start with a new battery as you may have continuity/voltage drop issues.) Headlight going out when starter button is pushed tells me that circuit is working.

Again check for poor ground/voltage drops between the starter, solenoid & battery. That to me would seem to be your problem.
 

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1. disconnect the green/red wire from the solenoid. With red lead on battery + and black lead on green/red wire from bike (power off) what do you get with

(a) bike in neutral, 10.85 v's
(b) in gear, 10.85 v's should be 0 v's ??? right?
(c) with clutch pulled in 10.85 v's

2. disconnect the yellow/red wire from the solenoid. With black lead on battery - and red lead on yellow/red wire from bike (power on) what do you get with

(a) starter button not depressed 0 v's
(b) starter button depressed 10.65 v's

3. With power off, run a jumper from solenoid's green/red wire to battery -. Connect another jumper to battery + and momentarily tough to the yellow/red to the solenoid. NOTE this should do one of the following
(a) nothing
(b) solenoid buzz Kind of between a click and a buzz..I hear clicking
(c) solenoid click so I guess it's connecting and releasing..weak battery???
(d) starter turn engine over.

I will charge up the battery to 12+ today and see if anything changes but i think I have a bad cell in this battery so charging may not help.
 

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mabey just run a set of booster cables to the bike battery while your testing to ensure max voltage.
 

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RB wrote:
1. disconnect the green/red wire from the solenoid. With red lead on battery + and black lead on green/red wire from bike (power off) what do you get with

(a) bike in neutral, 10.85 v's
(b) in gear, 10.85 v's should be 0 v's ??? right?
Correct. Something shorted in there somewhere. Neutral switch comes to mind.
(c) with clutch pulled in 10.85 v's

2. disconnect the yellow/red wire from the solenoid. With black lead on battery - and red lead on yellow/red wire from bike (power on) what do you get with

(a) starter button not depressed 0 v's
(b) starter button depressed 10.65 v's
This looks ok for now.

3. With power off, run a jumper from solenoid's green/red wire to battery -. Connect another jumper to battery + and momentarily tough to the yellow/red to the solenoid. NOTE this should do one of the following
(a) nothing
(b) solenoid buzz Kind of between a click and a buzz..I hear clicking
(c) solenoid click so I guess it's connecting and releasing..weak battery???
(d) starter turn engine over.
I am suspecting the battery at this point. But not ruling out the solenoid yet.

I will charge up the battery to 12+ today and see if anything changes but i think I have a bad cell in this battery so charging may not help.
Using the setup for 1, pull the diode with the light green/red and green/red wires going to it. Clutch released should be 0, clutch pulled should be 12.

Also is the neutral light always on or only when in neutral?
 

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Ok..I charged up the battery 12.8 V's re did this check same result..

disconnect the yellow/red wire from the solenoid. With black lead on battery - and red lead on yellow/red wire from bike (power on) what do you get with

(a) starter button not depressed 0 v's
(b) starter button depressed 10.65 v's

Hooked the y/r back up key on, clutch in and out and nothing no click no buzz nothing..I am losing ground here before I got buzzing!!!!###@!!

So I took the solenoid off and hooked it up to the battery directly neg locked on to the neg post and positive a touch and go.. the thing clicks perfectly..nice and solid CLICK!!!

So I figure bad battery so I pulled my battery from my Gl1100(start s just fine) and the same thing nothing..key on, clutch lever in or out if I do the above test I get

a) starter button not depressed 0 v's
(b) starter button depressed 10.89 v's

How can that be??? the switch is working, the battery is good and the solenoid works when tapped directly..also I tried this with the starter cable hooked to the solenoid and not attached no difference.

I will go back and try the last suggestions from Ron jsut above..but I thought my latest failures might add to the info..I'll be back soon...with a report.
 

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OK, some success the bike turns over, sounds normal but I don't know why..good battery probably. But I just tried it 10 minutes ago with the good battery and nothing the only thing that changed between tries was me shifting into and of gear a few times and pulling the diode. Which I put back in and it still turns over.

But here's something else to ponder..my neutral light was on but very weak hard to see in daylight..In the process and shifting in and out of gear to run the above test all of sudden the light came on very brightly..like it should..good battery maybe but the old battery was showing 12+v's right after being charged up and the neutral lights don't draw much amp so???

Anyway next interesting item..with the bike in gear no neutral light but when I pull in the clutch the neutral light comes on even though still in gear my 1100 doesn't do that..???

So as of right now it seems to be working the only change was a stronger battery BUT the first few tries with the new battery it was not working and now it is??? O know I should be happy but I feel better when I know why it's fixed..

Diode test with diode out and disconnected the green/red wire from the solenoid. Put red lead on battery + and black lead on green/red wire from bike (power off)

a) bike in neutral, 0
(b) in gear, 0
(c) with clutch pulled in 12.85 v's
 

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RB wrote:
OK, some success the bike turns over, sounds normal but I don't know why..good battery probably. But I just tried it 10 minutes ago with the good battery and nothing the only thing that changed between tries was me shifting into and of gear a few times and pulling the diode. Which I put back in and it still turns over.

But here's something else to ponder..my neutral light was on but very weak hard to see in daylight..In the process and shifting in and out of gear to run the above test all of sudden the light came on very brightly..like it should..good battery maybe but the old battery was showing 12+v's right after being charged up and the neutral lights don't draw much amp so???
Classic for neutral switch going bad. Dimly lit when not in neutral, brightly when it is.

Anyway next interesting item..with the bike in gear no neutral light but when I pull in the clutch the neutral light comes on even though still in gear my 1100 doesn't do that..???
Diode bad (shorted.) It's whole purpose in life is to prevent the clutch switch from lighting the neutral light. Try one of your "spares."

So as of right now it seems to be working the only change was a stronger battery BUT the first few tries with the new battery it was not working and now it is??? O know I should be happy but I feel better when I know why it's fixed..
Loose or dirty connection. Make sure they are clean and tight.

Diode test with diode out and disconnected the green/red wire from the solenoid. Put red lead on battery + and black lead on green/red wire from bike (power off)

a) bike in neutral, 0
(b) in gear, 0
(c) with clutch pulled in 12.85 v's
I think you have a bad diode and a bad neutral switch (and of course battery.)
 
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